2013 H230, Need Help Adding a Second Battery

Clintster442 · **Posted:** Mon May 06, 2013 7:47 am

I am adding a second battery and need some help and opinions. I already bought an Attwood 27 series box, a Blue Seas 6011 switch, and a BEP Marine DVSR charger that I am going to mount into the reset panel in the engine bay, similar to the factory dual battery setup. My question is about battery placement and wiring.

I was at the dealer the other day and looking at boats with factory dual battery setups. They have both batteries mounted in the port side. This makes sense as it is shorter cable runs to the switch and charger on the reset panel and the weight also offsets the captain's weight in the helm on the starboard side. That's fine and good if you are out on the boat alone... most times I am not. I have at least my wife with me who is sitting in the port seat and most of the times 2-3 others sitting in the back. Would there be any other advantages/disadvantages to mounting the second battery on the starboard side to balance the weight or mounting it on the port side?

Also, has anyone recently converted/upgraded to a dual battery setup? Other than the second battery box, switch, and charger I already have, is anything else I need other than the cables? I plan on installing the box where I want it then measuring cable runs and buying bulk length cable and terminal connectors from West Marine so that the cables are the right length.

Also, what type of battery should I buy? Should I get a dual purpose or a deep cycle?

Jdpber · **Posted:** Mon May 06, 2013 8:10 am

a group 24 weights about 70#.. one thing you can do is toss the new 2nd bat on your port side.. im 100% sure that if you have boat floating with no people.. the boat will sit the same no mater if it is on the port or starbord side.. my boat has dual house on port and a single start on Star.. when i test floated it before winter she was perfect level..

in addition to the items you have listed.. i would put an 80 AMP fuse at each of the batteries simply to protect you distribution.. Bule sea males a terminal breaker. you can also use an inline barrel glass fuse like use for stereo AMP wiring.. These are water tight and compact along with the ability to handle the larger gauge power wire for the bats.. i am using this style of fuse and fuse holder as i have them in my work shop already and mount it under 12" from terminal and have it in the bat box under the cover neat and out of the way.. RECOMEND toss a few spare fuses into the tool bag or glove box. the likely hood of you blowing a fuse is slim.. but blow a fuse is much better than a short and a fire..

Clintster442 · **Posted:** Mon May 06, 2013 8:56 am

Thanks for the excellent info. I hadn't even thought about the inline fuses. Think you could take a pic of your setup when you get a chance and post it up?

rpengr · **Posted:** Mon May 06, 2013 10:28 am

Dual purpose batteries are generally best for sport boats. Deep cycle batteries are more for trolling motors, or overnight cruiser house batteries.

I think you will be happiest if you put the 2nd battery where YOUR boat will be balanced the best, even if it means you need a longer cable run (and therefore larger cables). 70 lbs does make some difference to your balance, especially because it is way over towards the gunnel.

If you had any tendency to have a heavier side with your typical passenger/cargo loading, then put the 2nd battery on the lighter side.

If you were perfectly balanced before, then you can go either side, and you can always shift a cooler to the opposite side if you are picky about balance like me.

LouC · **Posted:** Mon May 06, 2013 11:49 am

I did this on my old 88 H-200 and it's an easy job. My primary batt was on the same side as the helm so I put the second on the other side to balance it out. The main thing is to use good quality cables properly sized. I had to go up to 1/0 cable for the long run to the port side batt. I used to have batt boxes but switched to trays because the batterys moved around in the box (had to use wood shims) and those stupid straps never hold em tight. I always had the rubber insulators on the terminals for safety.
For a boat that does not have the starting and house loads separated go with a dual purpose battery.

rpengr · **Posted:** Mon May 06, 2013 1:38 pm

Jdpber wrote:

.. i would put an 80 AMP fuse at each of the batteries simply to protect you distribution.. Bule sea males a terminal breaker. you can also use an inline barrel glass fuse like use for stereo AMP wiring.. These are water tight and compact along with the ability to handle the larger gauge power wire for the bats.. i am using this style of fuse and fuse holder as i have them in my work shop already and mount it under 12" from terminal and have it in the bat box under the cover neat and out of the way.. RECOMEND toss a few spare fuses into the tool bag or glove box. the likely hood of you blowing a fuse is slim.. but blow a fuse is much better than a short and a fire..

An 80amp fuse will not carry the load of a starter, which can be hundreds of amps. You can only use an 80amp fuse to protect the "house" loads (everything but the starter) if you have them separated.

ric · **Posted:** Mon May 06, 2013 2:28 pm

I have two battery systems on my boat. Two dual purpose in parallel for starting and normal use (stereo, tv, nav lights). I'd have to run the stereo or TV for 3 days to kill the battery. I also have a 2nd battery bank (two 230ah 6v in series) to a 1000w pure sine inverter to run A/C and any other 120v loads.

Soon I'll upgrade the alternator and throw in an isolator so I can charge while under power.

www.iFourWinns.com

2013 H230, Need Help Adding a Second Battery

Who is online