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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 9:26 pm 
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Goldfish

Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2017 2:03 pm
Posts: 34
Works great plugged into shore power. The 12 volt switches on the main panel are on fuse is not popped.
I know we need to take the panel out and find out if there's power behind there. Any other ideas


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2017 8:30 am 
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Shark

Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2015 7:52 am
Posts: 139
Location: Huntsville, AL
Do you mean no light on - no power.
Do you mean not cooling - light on though.
If no cooling - chances are the dreaded wire gauge too small issue.
Has it been working in the past and just stopped?

Could be the inverter but I doubt as it is normally a straight thru on DC power and converts AC to DC.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2017 11:17 am 
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Goldfish

Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2017 2:03 pm
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There is no power at all on 12v
I recently picked up the boat and I did not catch this prior to buying in the fridge did work on shore power.

-first check power at the switch in the panel

- then most likely pull the fridge out and test with some different wire


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2017 11:44 am 
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Livin' the Dream
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Location: Pontoon Beach IL
so it almost has to be the 12 volts coming to the fridge, since basically the fridge runs on 12 volts, and it is working on 120v shore power.... double check the fuses with a meter

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2017 12:45 pm 
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Location: Bush River, Maryland
Typical culprit for this issue is undersized DC wiring causing to much voltage drop which triggers the refrigerator's automatic cutoff.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:51 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2011 9:07 am
Posts: 133
Location: Freeland, Michigan
There is a light in the cabin refridgerator on a 298? I will have to see if my 2001 has one.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 3:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 12, 2013 3:56 pm
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Location: Southern ohio
Diagnosing norcold refrigerator that doesn't work on 12v.

4 screws hold the fridge in around the outside it should slide right out.
There is a fuse on back of fridge
Test fuse
Test red lead on the 12 volt power coming in and the other lead to ground
Mine was around 11.6 volts I didn't think that was to bad
My compressor would kick on and back off but fan would run
Test the voltage when the compressor is trying to kick on
Mine would pull down to 10.4 when load from compressor was applied
Replaced the wire with heavier wire and it worked fine

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 3:28 pm 
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Goldfish
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Joined: Tue Jun 18, 2013 6:45 pm
Posts: 32
Location: Harrison Township, MI
noexcuses wrote:
Typical culprit for this issue is undersized DC wiring causing to much voltage drop which triggers the refrigerator's automatic cutoff.




Yes this was the problem for my 328 Vista. Today I pulled the fridge out enough to sit a battery down and a short run of heavy wire. Ran great for a few hours. Then I had to go but I'm running maybe #10 wire from the breaker to the refrigerator.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 3:21 pm 
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Goldfish
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Joined: Tue Jun 18, 2013 6:45 pm
Posts: 32
Location: Harrison Township, MI
Update-Yes the fridge works fine now running on 12 volts after I ran larger wire from the breaker around to the refrigerator. I sort of may have went over kill but with #10 wire and a two hour cruise to home port the fridge was finally still on when I got back.
Now the test will be overnighting on the hook it should stay on all night.

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