LED install project looming

jntwlsn · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2008 11:25 am **Posts:** 127

I purchased 6 each of the 9.5" Oznium LED flex strips, 50' of 18 gauge wire, a fuse connector, and heat shrink for soldering. I'm thinking I'm on the right track but could be complicating things with the mindset for an efficient and clean install....

How difficult would it be to connect the LED lights to the accessory switch on the instrument panel that controls the auto engine hatch switch which I do not, nor in the future, will use?

I thought it be best to connect to the existing plug but am unsure if this is safe or possible?

Has anyone tried or considered this approach?

I am open to all suggestions or ridicules...lol

millhaven_nice_guy · **Posted:** Wed Jul 15, 2009 1:30 pm

Connecting to the non-used switches is very possible. If you are lucky they are already powered and fused! (You may want to down size the fuse to better protect the wiring system since the LED's don't draw much current anyways) This approach will make for a very clean, factory-like install. Check the wiring diagram in your manual for which wire to connect to in the engine compartment and that can be your starting point for the LED wiring circuit. BTW, the switch you have labelled for the engine hatch is a double throw momentary switch so it can't be used for on/off actions. Check out the circuit for the switch labelled "accessories" instead (making sure it doesn't power anything else!).

Jim_R · **Posted:** Thu Jul 16, 2009 1:18 pm

If the other switches are all in use it should be easy enough to replace the dual throw momentary switch with a SP/ST switch from the same series (Contour?). For my upcoming install I have already verified an accessory switch is free, FW was even nice enough to pre-wire it to the fuse box as Millhaven_nice_guy suggested.

jntwlsn · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2008 11:25 am **Posts:** 127

Jim_R wrote:

If the other switches are all in use it should be easy enough to replace the dual throw momentary switch with a SP/ST switch from the same series (Contour?). For my upcoming install I have already verified an accessory switch is free, FW was even nice enough to pre-wire it to the fuse box as Millhaven_nice_guy suggested.

I was told the free accessory switch (button) was for the hatch. What is it used for? I would like to connect into that plug if possible. When do you plan on starting your install, Jim?

Flying Sushi · **Posted:** Thu Jul 16, 2009 5:23 pm

I had 2 open accessory switches (one is for engine hatch and other for wiper) on my dash of our 260. I used the switch for wiper for my LED lights and I change fuse to 3A . The red lights at switch comes up when LED lights are on so very factory looking…. I did not recall the switch which should be for the engine hatch (next to bilge switch) does not seem to be dual throw momentary switch and seems same as other accessory switch. I am not be able to see my boat until next weekend so I can not verify this now but if you have a test meter you can verify it….

boater · **Posted:** Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:33 am

I have the empty wiper switch but I also have 2 accessory switches on the other side of the dash. There is power to all of them. I wired my satellite radio to one of the accessory switches.

jntwlsn · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2008 11:25 am **Posts:** 127

Flying Sushi wrote:

I had 2 open accessory switches (one is for engine hatch and other for wiper) on my dash of our 260. I used the switch for wiper for my LED lights and I change fuse to 3A . The red lights at switch comes up when LED lights are on so very factory looking…. I did not recall the switch which should be for the engine hatch (next to bilge switch) does not seem to be dual throw momentary switch and seems same as other accessory switch. I am not be able to see my boat until next weekend so I can not verify this now but if you have a test meter you can verify it….

Sounds so clean...and that is what I am after.

Was a (unused) wiper harness connected to the accessory switch?

If so, did you unplug the harness and connect the LED wire directly to the switch or another method???

I don't mean to "what if" this thing to death per se, just trying to allivate any mistakes or unneccessary work that I may make.

Flying Sushi · **Posted:** Fri Jul 17, 2009 10:38 am

The wiper harness is connected to the accessory switch and fuse box where they are marked “Wiper”. I just cut LED light lead into + side or hearness and connect ground to the – side of LED lights lead.
I said thanks FW… So easy and clean "A caveman can do it”…

jntwlsn · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2008 11:25 am **Posts:** 127

Flying Sushi wrote:

The wiper harness is connected to the accessory switch and fuse box where they are marked “Wiper”. I just cut LED light lead into + side or hearness and connect ground to the – side of LED lights lead.
I said thanks FW… So easy and clean "A caveman can do it”…

Thanks for the info. Exactly what I was looking for.

Jim_R · **Posted:** Fri Jul 17, 2009 1:20 pm

jntwlsn wrote:

When do you plan on starting your install, Jim?

Well, I started the project last October with the purchase of LEDs, experimenting with different ways of illuminating cup holders, and brain storming on what I 'wanted' versus 'could' acomplish. More recently, I've actually installed leds into cup holders and started pre-wiring some stuff. I'm on vacation this coming week, so am hoping to get to spend enough time to finish it then. Actually looking forward to the install more than the end product.

Jim_R · **Posted:** Sun Jul 19, 2009 10:29 pm

I got that fiberglass on bare skin feel. You know, pins and needles. On the plus side, about 80% of my install is complete. Hope to finish tomorrow and snap some pics tomorrow night.

jntwlsn · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2008 11:25 am **Posts:** 127

Jim_R wrote:

I got that fiberglass on bare skin feel. You know, pins and needles. On the plus side, about 80% of my install is complete. Hope to finish tomorrow and snap some pics tomorrow night.

Looking forward to seeing the pics. I have started pulling wire on two occoassions only to stop, scratch my head, and wonder out loud, "Is this what I want to do today?" lol

Jim_R · **Posted:** Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:59 am

jntwlsn wrote:

Jim_R wrote:

I got that fiberglass on bare skin feel. You know, pins and needles. On the plus side, about 80% of my install is complete. Hope to finish tomorrow and snap some pics tomorrow night.

Looking forward to seeing the pics. I have started pulling wire on two occoassions only to stop, scratch my head, and wonder out loud, "Is this what I want to do today?" lol

Pics are here: http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2973

I wired mine to the one unused accessory switch - it is furthest to port of the three switches. On my boat FW used the middle switch for the docking lights, and the switch to starboard is for courtesy lights. Even although power was apparently pre-wired to the switch, it didn't work. Imagine my disappointment when I made the last connection and hit the switch thinking 'ta da!' and got nothing. :mrgreen:

I tried to trace the existing power feed, but the wiring disappeared into the harness, and the color code changed along the path somewhere, so I found it easier to run my own jumper from the switch to the fuse box. HTH.

jntwlsn · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2008 11:25 am **Posts:** 127

Everything looks great. I like the storage compartment lights and, of course, the cup holders. You now have me thinking more upgrades.

Do you have any pics of the switch/fuse box jumper install or is it too difficult to capture?

Jim_R · **Posted:** Tue Jul 21, 2009 5:12 pm

jntwlsn wrote:

Everything looks great. I like the storage compartment lights and, of course, the cup holders. You now have me thinking more upgrades.

Do you have any pics of the switch/fuse box jumper install or is it too difficult to capture?

No pics, but easy enough to describe. The switch goes inline on the hot lead. On mine the wire to the lights goes on the blade connection on the port side of the switch, and the wire to the fuse box goes on the starboard side. I used the top fuse on the port side, which was free and already had a 5A fuse in it. The negative lead, typically a yellow wire on mine goes to the negative junction block at the top of the fuse panel, again a spare blade connection should be available. Yell if you really need pics, I could snap some tomorrow.

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LED install project looming

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