www.iFourWinns.com

Thanks for the info, I always charge it while at home couple days before we go. It would be nice to have it mounted in the engine compartment. Is there too long you can charge deep cycle batteries on a 10 amp trickle charger? Wondering about overcharging.

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1990 Horizon 200
5.7L OMC Cobra 260HP

A "smart" charger, also known as a "trickle" will not overcharge them. They go into a float mode when they recognize a full charge. I've mounted a marine one under my hatch & keep it plugged in when the boat is stored. As a side benefit. The charger puts off some heat and that comes in handy during winter storage

PS, If possible you want a lower amperage than 10A for charging.

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H210SS 6.2
F150 Platinum

I have a 1 amp I used to use for my four wheelers, but it doesn't have a gauge to show when its at 100% or anything, but it may not need to if I just leave it on there during the week when Im not using it.. Id like to mount it in the engine compartment.

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1990 Horizon 200
5.7L OMC Cobra 260HP

When we bought our boat last spring I looked around for trickle chargers. I really wanted one that was ignition proof. The best deal I found was at Bass Pro Shops. They have a Pro Mariner On Board that is rated for engine room use. It is also designed that it won't draw down the battery if unplugged from AC power and left attached to the battery. I used it all year and was very happy. It sells for about $40.00.

I couldn't fine any other that was coast guard rated for engine room use. It costs a little more but I feel much better leaving it plugged in while away from the boat.

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Terry
Current: 07 Crownline 255 CCR cuddy - 350 Mag MPI/B3 "Casi Cielo"

Previous:97 245 Sundowner 5.7GI/SX

Tow vehicle: 1986 GMC 2500 Camper Special 454/TH400

Working on my second battery and had a question about the wiring. Main battery is connected to the Perko switch which has the red (pos) from the engine to the switch and then from the switch to the red (pos) on battery #1. The black (neg) goes directly from battery #1 to the engine (does not connect to the perko switch). So when running the cables for battery #2, I am running the red (pos) from battery #2 to the perko switch. Do I run the black (neg) from battery #2 to the black (neg) on battery #1? That would mean no black (neg) wired to the perko switch.


Should I avoid running the battery #2 cables near the gas tank? there is a wood panel that holds the tank in the center and I could mount brackets to hold the cable to come up on the other side making a shorter run and easier mounting, but not sure if that is safe or not. will try and post a picture. Posted pic. See the red cable? Thinking of attaching to the wood brace and neg would run there too. Is that not a good idea or ok? Thanks.

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

In my opinion it's better to run a separate grounding cable of appropriate size directly to a ground at the engine block. You should be ok securing the cables to the engine side of the wood panel. I believe requirements state that running electrical cables over the gas tank or lines is bad. It's been some time since I've read up on Coast Guard and ABYC regs on this. I'll dig up the links I have in case you want to take a look.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Coast Guard Boat Builders Handbook:

http://www.uscgboating.org/regulations/ ... tions.aspx

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Thanks guys. I did not go with the easier shorter route.

I ended up running them both lines on the opposite side of the engine, along the rear, as I just was nervous about having battery cables near the gas tank and the bildge. There is a little edge along the back of the boat that has clips for some other wiring (trim) and I was able to zip tie them there to keep up high and away from the engine.

I did secure the negative to battery #1 as per the Perko swith website and not the engine.

Any issue that the red and black battery cables are close to each other along the rear?

Here is how the second batter looks on the port side to try and balance out the weight.

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

Looks like you found a nice spot for it - very accessible. BTW - In my neck of the woods one would get a hefty fine for not having the negative terminals covered.

*edit - you really need to have that post style positive terminal covered too! You'll find what you need pretty cheap here:
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20E ... l%20Boots/

I like these for covering the post style terminals:

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

The boat came without a negative cover, but I could easily slip some on. Do not recall seeing them at the store, so thanks for the link.

When I have been stopped they are usually all about the life vests, horn, flares, throwable cushion, whistle and paperwork. Do they inspect your batteries too???

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

You will want cover on both your battery terminals for sure. I got a fine for this last year and it was like $140.00 I think! BTW here is a pic of the charger I installed. Dual bank 8 amp and is always pluged in when the boat is at home.

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1998 Baja Boss 252 7.4L MPI Bravo 1 (SOLD)
2007 FW H200SS 5.0GXI (Sold)
2004 Chevy Silverado 2500 Crew 6.0L (tow vehicle)
1991 FW 170 Freedom 4.3L (SOLD)

Learn something new everyday. Mine are not visible under the seats, but my buddies center console are in plain view and heck I dont even think he has the pos covers. He is helping with the gimball bearing so I guess I can pick up a few for him too along with the Bud Light

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4