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 Post subject: Short or a bad ground?
PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 11:57 am 
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Tadpole

Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2011 9:51 am
Posts: 4
Hi folks, this is my first post. Thanks to everyone for all the great advice so far. We just got a 245 Vista, and even though we didn't do any of the right things like getting a survey done, it looks like she's pretty sound! The problem that is driving me nuts is that my lights flicker and the stereo cuts in and out when the stereo is on. The fridge is also off and on with the lights on, mostly off. I'm thinking it's a short or a bad ground. I removed the fuze panel and looked at the wires back there, they all look fine to me. It was at that moment that I realized that I have no idea what a short or loose ground looks like. I have a voltmeter, but I'm not sure what to do with it. I followed the black cable from the battery to the engine block, it looks ok. All the wires behind the fuze panel look ok to me. Any more advice before I hire a pro?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:39 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2010 7:58 am
Posts: 189
Location: Central East Coast Florida
Electrical gremlins are a real pain. I would start with one item at a time. Does the stereo work by itself? Look for combinations of items that cause or don't cause a problem. What you are trying to do is identify the source of the problem. It could be an internal short in one component. You can isolate individual components by pulling the fuse or disconnecting at the item.
If you have a volt/ohm meter you can check the quality of ground from each component to the battery ground. They should all be less than an ohm or so. Also check the main ground bar at the fuse panel to the battery ground.
Good luck
Rob

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:09 pm 
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Tadpole

Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:52 pm
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Go back to the ground (black) wire, disconnect at the battery, and clean the ends and the terminals. They can look fine and still be making a lousy connection. In fact I'd do this with both the ground and positive terminals. (when pulling both terminals the ground ALWAYS comes off FIRST, then goes back LAST!)

If you have wing nut connections, I'd suggest getting nuts and lock washers to replace them (But don't over tighten!). Those coming loose are also a problem and can cause those symptoms. Keep an appropriate sized wrench or socket on board for when needed to pull terminal.

Disconnect the battery ground cable, and do the same (disconnect and clean) the main wires coming into the fuse panel and the ground connection at the engine....if you can get at it.

Because the boat is old, corrosion can seep in and form a tiny film, and screw up connections. You won't even realize it. More often than not most of those types of electrical problems will be solved. This is a quick and (relatively) easy fix. If doesn't work, at least you know you've eliminated one possibility.

Hope that helps.

Al T


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:29 pm 
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
I would agree with Al.

When using a volt meter set to ohms, make sure the power is off!! I would not try ohming things out. Unless you are looking for a break. I would take voltage checks, 1st from the battery and compare them from the fuse panel, radio and so on. A 1/4 to 1/2 volt drop in normal, more so when that unit is on!

Why not take ohm readings you might say. I cable could be so bad, as to not let enough current pass thought it, that the unit in question will not turn on. The ohms meter put out so little, that testing that same cable, reads zero ohms.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 10:15 pm 
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Tadpole

Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2011 9:51 am
Posts: 4
Thanks for the great advice guys. I replaced the old corroded ground wires between the batteries and the engine block and the batter switch and now the fridge and stereo are working fine. Actually the fridge was a strange story. I tried turning it on with 12 volt power but I still got nothing, so I tried it in 110 and it ran fine. I shut off the 110 and switched to 12 volt and it ran fine....almost like I needed a running start. Not sure what the technical term is for that but hey, it works!

Now I've just got to find some cassettes for this stereo ;-)


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:23 am 
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Location: Winthrop, Ma.
wmcelwaine wrote:
Thanks for the great advice guys. I replaced the old corroded ground wires between the batteries and the engine block and the batter switch and now the fridge and stereo are working fine. Actually the fridge was a strange story. I tried turning it on with 12 volt power but I still got nothing, so I tried it in 110 and it ran fine. I shut off the 110 and switched to 12 volt and it ran fine....almost like I needed a running start. Not sure what the technical term is for that but hey, it works!

Now I've just got to find some cassettes for this stereo ;-)


Thats great!!

On the fridge, what that tells me, is that you have the same problem. The wire is so corroded, it can not pass enough current. I think FW under sizes it wires anyways!! Case in point, I have a new boat, I went to change over 6 of the cabin lights to LEDs. The first one I put in was dim, I tried a 2nd one in the same light, it to was also dim. I took a voltage reading & got 10V. I pulled out, one by one the old bulbs out of each light. With each light the voltage when up, it took pulling 4 lights out to hit 12.7V. That tells me that the wire is not heave enough to handle the load. Now add corrosion!.

As to the stereo, not to spend your money, but I will anyways! Buy a new one, the new ones now have HD radio & USB ports. Load up the thump drive & you are all set.


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