Paul I. wrote:
I must say from reading the past postings, I am here at work laughing!!! Ric, I will say that, yes, mainly you are correct. But the block is a truck engine, not a car engine. I have heard this point for years!! As far as other "mods" as the bearings and other things. I take them with a grain of salt. After all, look who is writing that article.
As to the valve timing, I find that hard to believe, but I could be wrong. But that’s what the rises are for, and I “think” there should be a (what I will call) a one-way flapper, that will close if water tries to get in.
To th U.S.C.G., they just don't want you to blow you'er self up!! They don't care if your engine has more "were and tear" on it.
OH!! I hope your girl friend did read to you last night!! I love it when my wife reads to me, late into the night and……………
As far as a "truck" small block chevy vs. a "car" engine, there are no internal differences. The only casting differences between small block chevy's from the mid 80s (the style of engine mercruiser uses even in 2011 engines) was 2 or 4 bolt main that was an option available in the 350, not 305. There was in the late 70's a few 4 bolt main 305's cast for Canadian use, but their dipstick is on the driver's side (port side). All mercruiser 5.0's have their dipstick on the starboard side. 2 bolt.
Marine Dealers will tell you otherwise that marine engines are 100% different and special. Why?? Because they want $300 for a power steering pump instead of $25 at the local auto parts store. $30 for a alternator belt when it's $5 at the DAP. $50 for crappy 7mm plug wires. Etc. Etc.
Boats are a novelty item. You will pay novelty prices. Some stuff you just can't get away from that are boat specific, but generic parts are generic and you can shop anywhere. From what I've seen in owning a boat for only a few months now... these "marine" specific parts are cheap junk. It's almost like they are designed to break and wear out.
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