Magma mount

LVChris · **Posted:** Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:43 pm

So not only do I have a boat problem...but I also have a boat grill problem...I just love cooking on the grill on the boat, which is odd because I really am not a fan of doing it at home.

That being said..I started with a magma kettle (well two actually) and recently found an amazing deal on a Magma Newport...

and now I have to mount that one. The mount it came with is the

"LeveLock"™ All-Angle Adjustable Fish Rod Holder Mount

So now I get to add stainless fishing pole rod holders to my boat, win-win. I just need to know if there is a "best" one..I have seen them in 3 different angles 0, 15, and 30 degrees

Any thoughts?

TIA

JeffLW · **Posted:** Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:57 pm

I wanted to use this mount for my grill but didn't have the clearance on the port side for the rod holder. The recess for the cooler is in the way. I used the swivel mount to the bimini pole instead.

TFD2001 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 16, 2014 5:51 pm

Personally, I like my setup.. Stuck the mount in the floor of the ladder well.. Works pretty good for us..

firecadet613 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 16, 2014 6:47 pm

Do you have a bar behind the stern seat, above the transom storage? Mine sits right there.

LVChris · **Posted:** Tue Sep 16, 2014 6:55 pm

Thanks for all the replies...but i am very familiar with all the ways to mount it. I want to add the pole holders...just want to know if I should use the 0, 15, or 30 degree ones.

ric · **Posted:** Tue Sep 16, 2014 7:10 pm

LVChris · **Posted:** Tue Sep 16, 2014 7:31 pm

ric wrote:

What are you saying ric? I should buy a $1200 swim platform and a $90 pedestal mount for a grill I paid $25 for that CAME WITH the pole holder mount? Or do you just love seeing pictures of your boat...

here...

fi.na.tine · **Posted:** Tue Sep 16, 2014 7:54 pm

LVChris wrote:

ric wrote:

What are you saying ric? I should buy a $1200 swim platform and a $90 pedestal mount for a grill I paid $25 for that CAME WITH the pole holder mount? Or do you just love seeing pictures of your boat...

here...

My keyboard is now covered with Orange Chicken. Thank you. :lol:

babbot1 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 12, 2013 3:46 pm **Posts:** 570

The angle doesn't seem to matter with that mount you have since it is the levellock. Which is very nice I might add. The angle will come into play if you use it for, well fishing rods. I am not sure of the difference angle purposes but they do have difference effects on trolling. So I would say buy the angle you need for the other purposes. I have 30 degrees which is VERY steep for a fishing pole. The line is out like 50 feet before it hits the water. They also make other angles like 45 and 60.
The craptacular kuuma grill I just purchased only has a 60 degree mount available and that's when I found out that I had a 30 degree holder. I had to re-weld the angle.

LVChris · **Posted:** Wed Sep 17, 2014 1:35 pm

babbot1 wrote:

The angle doesn't seem to matter with that mount you have since it is the levellock. Which is very nice I might add. The angle will come into play if you use it for, well fishing rods. I am not sure of the difference angle purposes but they do have difference effects on trolling. So I would say buy the angle you need for the other purposes. I have 30 degrees which is VERY steep for a fishing pole. The line is out like 50 feet before it hits the water. They also make other angles like 45 and 60.
The craptacular kuuma grill I just purchased only has a 60 degree mount available and that's when I found out that I had a 30 degree holder. I had to re-weld the angle.

Thanks for that babbot, that's exactly the info I needed. I do fish but only anchored or drift...so that angle won't matter much to me...in fact maybe a 60 degree would be best. I'll see what I can find. thanks again.

LVChris · **Posted:** Fri Nov 14, 2014 2:08 pm

Bringing her home today to mount the grill and bait table. Need to drill the two holes for the pole holders, guessing a holesaw? Sound right? and advice or suggestions?

TIA,

babbot1 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 12, 2013 3:46 pm **Posts:** 570

Do your homework on drilling fiberglass as it is important to do it correctly or else it will chip or crack the gel coating. Put masking tape on the area you are cutting and go slow. I usually run the drill bit backwards for a little to cut through the gel coating so it doesn't crack or chip. Not sure what you should use maybe someone else can chime in but I would say a hole saw would be okay. I have only drilled bolt holes and large holes where I used a fine tooth hack saw blade by hand.
A whole saw in reverse will probably do a pretty tidy job with no chipping. If you have a fine tooth one for metal that might be even better.

Berger · **Posted:** Fri Nov 14, 2014 3:40 pm

I have had great success using a Dremel with a fiberglass cutting bit. It's very easy to control when cutting and it was a good excuse to buy one when I added rod olders to my FW. It's a noisy, dusty job and you need to go slow to keep the bit from over heating. So keep a shop vac handy and probably a dust mask wouldn't hurt either. Good luck.

fi.na.tine · **Posted:** Sun Nov 16, 2014 4:48 pm

babbot1 wrote:

Do your homework on drilling fiberglass as it is important to do it correctly or else it will chip or crack the gel coating. Put masking tape on the area you are cutting and go slow. I usually run the drill bit backwards for a little to cut through the gel coating so it doesn't crack or chip. Not sure what you should use maybe someone else can chime in but I would say a hole saw would be okay. I have only drilled bolt holes and large holes where I used a fine tooth hack saw blade by hand.
A whole saw in reverse will probably do a pretty tidy job with no chipping. If you have a fine tooth one for metal that might be even better.

I was advised to clean the surface to eliminate surface dirt, let completely dry, mask the area with a minimum 3" overlap of the area, and to use a step drill bit. (Used this when I installed my antenna) Now that it is colder, I have been advised to use a hot pad or hot pack on the area to warm the area to at least 75 degrees or it may chip or crack.

I also have someone hold a vacuum cleaner hose on the opposite end and run it while drilling. Keeps down on the dust and makes cleanup easier.

Surface Interval · **Posted:** Sun Nov 16, 2014 6:35 pm

When drilling fiberglass, use light pressure. Generally, a medium to higher speed and light pressure works best. Applying tape to the area has many benefits like reducing chipping, and providing a surface to mark hole locations. A hair dryer might be used if you want to warm the surface, but be careful not to overdo it. When possible a sacrificial face board and/or a backing board will reduce chipping and tear out. Clamping or holding a drill bushing or pre-drilled guide block may help reduce drill bit walking or wander. Consider chamfering or slightly countersinking the gelcoat around the hole to reduce chipping. A Four Winns rep even told me that a phillips screwdriver could be used to chamfer smaller holes. The standard twist drill bit does have a tendency to grab or tear out as it finishes the hole. A unibit or step drill works well for thinner surfaces because the step drill is in contact with more than half of the diameter of the hole, and won't chatter like a standard drill bit. Hole saws generally work well. Tape the surface, drill a pilot hole when possible, and finish the hole from the back side to prevent tear out if possible. When drilling thru thicker surfaces like the transom, you may need to remove some of the waste material from the center of the hole as you go. Stop occasionally to clear drill shavings from the hole saw or drill bit.

www.iFourWinns.com

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