www.iFourWinns.com

I really don’t want to have to drill into the fiberglass, so I was wondering if anyone mounted their extinguisher using a different method and how it worked for you?


Thanks

_________________
2007 200 Horizon- 4.3GXi/SX 225hp
2007 Tahoe LT

If you know exactly where you want to mount the extinguisher, and you have a relatively flat fiberglass area, you could use construction adhesive to affix some treated plywood, and then mount the extinguisher bracket to the plywood. You'd want to rough up the fiberglass a little to ensure a good bond.

Gotta say, drilling into fiberglass is not a big deal. Use a sharp drill bit, high speed, lots of pressure, and apply masking tape to the surface first. If you're woried that the fiberglass might be a bit on the thin side, using the 'drywall' expanding plastic screw anchor inserts might be the way to go.

_________________
2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Yeah, I know it isn't a big deal, just don't like the idea of drilling into my new baby!

_________________
2007 200 Horizon- 4.3GXi/SX 225hp
2007 Tahoe LT

AS a Vessel Examiner with the USPS, we recommend mounting them. Otherwise, they seem to get buried and end up unaccessible come an emergency

_________________
Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

Okay....Fine...I will just use loads of Duct tape to mount it!!!

_________________
2007 200 Horizon- 4.3GXi/SX 225hp
2007 Tahoe LT

If there was one thing I'd permanently mount, that would be it. I'd look very carefully at where you want it, and then realize that you're *always* going to want it to be there, and it's the one thing that *always* has to be on the boat. Then, if you really can't stand the thought of taking high speed steel to fiberglass (a sentiment I totally understand), let your dealer do it for you. I'm kind of surprised they didn't do it without even asking you prior to delivery.

_________________


Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

And when you mount it consider not putting it in a perfectly flat orientation. When it's mounted just straight up/down the contents tend to settle. Using a sideways or tilted orientation lets the wave action move the contents enough to avoid settling. Not that it matters "a lot" but it's one thing to keep in mind.

Same thing goes with your extinguishers at home, it's a good idea to turn 'em over a couple of times a year to keep the contents from setting up.

I've got one of mine mounted just under the helm seat. It's inside the closed locker on the 348 right next to an open one under the captain's seat. I used a couple of through-bolts to mount a piece of starboard to the hidden side of the open shelf. I then mounted the extinguisher to that. Next time I'm fiddling with epoxy I'll probably reattached the starboard for some added strength.

I plan on mounting the second one inside the locker next to the icemaker, similarly on a bit of an angle. The third one lives down in the cabin in one of the overhead cabinets, unmounted at this point in time, but with the mount still attached so as to comply with the safety regs.

If you think three extinguishers is excessive, I've had situations where extinguishers didnt' work "long enough". I'd much rather have the inconvenience of space 'wasted' on them than let a fire cause more damage than necessary.

Finally got around to mounting mine. Decided on mounting to the cockpit console side figuring a helm side fire is more likely, and not having to fight the fire to get to the extinguisher would be a plus. I used two SS screws, and a couple dabs of 4200 on the back of the mounting harness. Kind of like the way it looks!



Only one is required on the Horizon 200, but I'm determined to install a Halon type automatic extinguisher in the engine compartment next year.

_________________
2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

There is also this product by Sea-Fire

http://www.sea-fire.com/fire%20foe%20revised.pdf

_________________
Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

It's good to see that Fireboy will have some competition. Although going by West Marine's internet pricing, SeaFire suffers in price point comparisons. Looks a breeze to install though.

*edit - appears I was looking at pricing for a different Sea-Fire product. Just found pricing for a very small Fire-Foe (15 cubic foot) at about $90. Must be geared towards PWC. Pretty sure the Horizon's engine compartment would need around 150 cubic feet. Interesting, although I'd think that a provision for auto cutoff of the blower would be required, and cut off of the engine would be nice. I don't see provision for either with given the self contained unit design. Maybe there's an add on kit. Seems worthy of further investigation.

_________________
2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Having had a fire in the boat once (no fun I can tell you) and needing to use is in a hurry the last thing on your mind is worrying about a few screw holes .You just want to be able to get at it QUICK and use it
Ardy

_________________
Ardy
Adelaide South Australia
Red H180 3.0 Merc

Ditto!
Some place visible from the driver seat is my general rule...
And, if possible, use some marine plywood or something as a backing behind the fiberglass. That will reinforce it, and reduce chances of breaking through at the screw holes.

_________________
Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

I am always surprised at how many things are held on by screws driven directly into the GRP on a leisure boat; even the seat pedestals, which are a safety critical area in my opinion! "Industrial" or " Automotive" composites invariably use a backing plate and if this is not possible, threaded metal or plastic inserts incorporated into or bonded into the GRP. That way the GRP isn't subjected to the stresses from screw threads, which tend to push the composite's layers apart. This is made worse if the item mounted with screws is subject to loads, which also applies stress, pulling the layers apart. It greatly reduces the risk of screw pull-out.

If there's access to put in a backing plate, I always prefer to use one and machine screws and locknuts/ washers ( even "pronged T nuts", if the backing plate is suitable), rather than screwing into the GRP (which can cause cracking of the GRP or gel coat if the hole diameter isn't just right for the screw diameter. Also, cracks can occur if the screw isn't at 90 degrees to the surface of the item being mounted) . I drill clearance holes for the bolts, and countersink the gel coat. Plus a thin layer of closed cell flexible foam between the GRP and item, to take up any slight misalignment. Maybe an overkill, but this minimises the chances of cracking/ screw pull-out.

Regards,

Graham

This is actually one of the reasons I intend to get a bunch of weight off this year. Less strain on the boat and its fittings. Not a very noble reason, but if it works I'll take it .

_________________


Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic