Used Boat Checklist

LBZYA · **Joined:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:51 am **Posts:** 9

Does anyone know of a checklist to follow when looking at used boats?

ric · **Posted:** Sat Mar 02, 2013 5:14 pm

LBZYA wrote:

Does anyone know of a checklist to follow when looking at used boats?

I just pay the 300 for an inspection on something that I like cosmetically. If there's any visible african engineering = walk away. Unless it's cheap.

LBZYA · **Joined:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:51 am **Posts:** 9

I am looking at 97 QX for $5600 that the guy says is in really good condition. I dont mind paying full retail for a boat that meets the condtions of the high retail price. Most of it is basic in the cosmetic areas. My fear is that he said he has done most of the maintenance like changing the oil and packing the bearings. When I asked about the drive he said he does not recall if it had been serviced in the past 4 years, but he said he does not hardly use the boat. This worries me, for drive work is not cheap.

ric · **Posted:** Sat Mar 02, 2013 8:55 pm

LBZYA wrote:

I am looking at 97 QX for $5600 that the guy says is in really good condition. I dont mind paying full retail for a boat that meets the condtions of the high retail price. Most of it is basic in the cosmetic areas. My fear is that he said he has done most of the maintenance like changing the oil and packing the bearings. When I asked about the drive he said he does not recall if it had been serviced in the past 4 years, but he said he does not hardly use the boat. This worries me, for drive work is not cheap.

Well if it cosmetically fancies you, just let a mechanic do an inspection. I'm a "shadetree mechanic" but when it comes to purchase I always want a 3rd party looking at it.

fiznuka · **Posted:** Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:03 pm

Definitely check the oil for water I learned that the hard way. You could check on Iboats.com for a list I'm sure they have one.
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-topics-qu ... 09835.html

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Mar 03, 2013 9:04 am

There are basically 3 categories: engine drive hull/structure.
A water test is a must, to see if it starts well from cold and with a hot engine, if it does not overheat (temps can range from 160-175*), if the engine will reach proper rpms (manufacturer's specs) and that the drive goes into gear properly both in fwd and rev. During the water test you are also looking for proper operation of the throttle, shifter, and tilt/trim. If you start with a dry bilge it should be dry at the end. If there is water you need to determine where it's coming from. The engine cooling system hoses can leak, the raw water pump and the front circulating pump can leak and freeze plugs on the engine can leak if it was not drained in freezing weather. Even worse there can be a cracked block/heads requiring a new engine.
Look at the motor oil, is it clean and does it look milky? Milky=water in oil from a bad exhaust or cracked block. When you run it on land on the muffs does it smoke (blue=oil burning, white=cooling water bad head gasket or engine cracks). Is the drive oil clean and not milky? Remove the drain plug if water/milky oil comes out first = bad seals.

The hull, I told you how to check in my other post. When you do the water test back it in with the engine cover open and see if water leaks in around the transom mount. If so repairing that (transom seal) can be very expensive.

Lastly don't forget the trailer, check tires, bearings, brakes etc.

LBZYA · **Joined:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:51 am **Posts:** 9

Thank you all for your help. I am getting ready to head over to check out the boat. I will keep all these things in mind. Hope all is well and I hope to have the boat in the driveway at the end of the day. Thanks again, Jeff

TX H210SS · **Joined:** Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am **Posts:** 1488

That's a good review......also with engine running on muffs or in water..remove the oil fill caps on both valve covers....if you feel strong pulsating air coming from there then you have blow by....that's not good and is a dealbuster.

Also look at the interior bolt thru hardware in the transom...can be seen with flashlight in engine compartment. If you see rust or rust staining leading down from these...indicates wet transom which is bad and a dealbuster.

If able you can compression test each cylinder.

TX H210SS · **Joined:** Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am **Posts:** 1488

If its an outboard then its too easy not to do compression check...and disregard the blow by check referenced above since it will no valve cover fill caps.

LBZYA · **Joined:** Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:51 am **Posts:** 9

Just got back from looking at the QX that the owner said it was in very good condition. I was not there for more that 5min and determined that the owner of this boat should not ever owned a boat at all. It was in poor condition. So I walked away from the deal.

So, the search continues. I am surprised that there are not a lot of boats on the market for sale with it being tax season and fishing season coming up. If anyone knows of a good 17 or 18 out on the market, let me know.

Thanks for all you help. Jeff

www.iFourWinns.com

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