$$ down on 2008 H210 SS

skelly2130 · **Joined:** Sat Mar 30, 2013 11:40 am **Posts:** 4

New to the forum and new to boat ownership. I have money down on a red 2008 H210 SS with the 5.7 VP GXi. Boat is loaded and very clean with only 107 hours. The dealer took it on a trade and let me review their inspection, which revealed a "cracked engine mount." This is a very reputable dealer and their service manager said its a very simple weld to fix the issue. Curious if this issue is common on this boat and if I should be concerned with this fix. I would also welcome any other advice/guidance on the purchase from any other Horizon owners out there!

Thanks.

ric · **Posted:** Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:47 pm

Fix it and have the drive aligned. Good to go

230 Mike · **Posted:** Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:56 pm

It's not common at all, and I'd be digging a little to find out why it happened. But in any case, be sure after the repair is made that they remove the drive, align the engine, reinstall the drive, and grease the gimbal bearing. That's a maintenance process that normally should be done every 2 years. Since your boat has had this issue, if it were me I'd have it done annually for the first 2-3 years to make sure nothing is moving around.

skelly2130 · **Joined:** Sat Mar 30, 2013 11:40 am **Posts:** 4

Thanks for the quick response. Is the re-alignment you both suggest a labor intensive maintenance item. I just want to be prepared when I ask for this as a condition of delivery.

LouC · **Posted:** Sat Mar 30, 2013 3:50 pm

When they say cracked engine mount, do they mean the mount that is bolted to the engine block (made of cast iron most likely) or the engine mount pad on the stringer in the engine compartment? I have never heard of a cast iron engine mount cracking, yes they can rust, the bushings can crack, is that what they're re referring to? If its the metal mount that bolts to the engine they should replace that if it's cracked, that is not a common problem at all. Esp in a boat that new. If it is cast iron they should not be welding it because cast iron it not that easy to weld and the mounts are not that expensive.

Or, is it the mounting pad on the boat it self? That to me is a more serious issue as its a structural fiberglass component. It usually has a wood backing section that is 'glassed in and the lag bolts are drilled into that. If the wood/glass laminate was not bonded properly when the boat was built (if there was a void that allowed the engine to shift) that could cause a crack in the outer glass. This is not a big deal for a good glass shop to fix but it has to be done right for the engine to be aligned properly. So find out more what they mean about the cracked engine mount.

skelly2130 · **Joined:** Sat Mar 30, 2013 11:40 am **Posts:** 4

Good questions LouC. I'll check into this some more and post what I find.

Walt · **Posted:** Sun Mar 31, 2013 8:42 am

Personally, I would RUN, not walk away from that deal. As indicated, a cracked engine mount on the engine side would be a questionable fix at best as you simply do not weld on cast steel. On the structural/fiberglass side, that would be a big question too. Both options still lead back to the "WHY did it break". I think this could be a recurring headache, thus not worth the deal.

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Mar 31, 2013 11:46 am

Agree on this point because engine alignment is critical with I/Os, if you cannot get the engine alignment right you will be burning out engine couplers.
I'm still trying to imagine how an engine mount cracked. Was it installed improperly and torqued down too much? Never seen this and I've been fixing my own stuff for 40 years. I have heard of engine mount bolts breaking (on Jeeps with 4.0 liter sixes, the old Cherokee XJ series) but even that was pretty rare. This is a pretty new boat, and that in my experience is a very unusual problem. My boat that is 20 years older, still has the OE engine mounts!

230 Mike · **Posted:** Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:00 pm

skelly2130 wrote:

Thanks for the quick response. Is the re-alignment you both suggest a labor intensive maintenance item. I just want to be prepared when I ask for this as a condition of delivery.

Wondering if there are any updates? To answer your question, engine alignment is not (or at least shouldn't be) considered an unusual or particularly difficult job for a qualified marine mechanic. It involves removing the drive (not as big a deal as it sounds when you have the right equipment to do it) and inserting an "alignment tool" (which is just a long, precision machined steel shaft) through the gimbal bearing and into the engine coupler. The goal is to make sure the engine and coupler are in perfect alignment with the gimbal bearing and drive shaft (which comes out with the drive when its removed). If the alignment is off, the coupler and/or gimbal bearing can be damaged in a hurry. The coupler is an expensive part and requires an engine pull to replace ($$$$). Even the gimbal bearing is expensive if damaged due to the labor involved.

I think my shop charges $200 for a "complete drive maintenance" - drain/fill, pull, check alignment, reinstall. Normally, every 2 years is sufficient on the alignment. But something very strange is going on if you've got a broken mount. Oh, the other thing about pulling the drive regularly is that if you don't, the drive shaft splines (which need regular lubrication) can dry up and get "stuck" in the coupler - and that can get expensive to fix too.

Now see, you thought it was going to be all pretty girls in calm coves and unforgettable family time. :lol:

(Actually the last part is true, but it takes a lot of work to get to that point.)

rpengr · **Posted:** Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:20 pm

230 Mike wrote:

To answer your question, engine alignment is not (or at least shouldn't be) considered an unusual or particularly difficult job for a qualified marine mechanic. It involves removing the drive (not as big a deal as it sounds when you have the right equipment to do it) and inserting an "alignment tool" (which is just a long, precision machined steel shaft) through the gimbal bearing and into the engine coupler. The goal is to make sure the engine and coupler are in perfect alignment with the gimbal bearing and drive shaft (which comes out with the drive when its removed). If the alignment is off, the coupler and/or gimbal bearing can be damaged in a hurry. The coupler is an expensive part and requires an engine pull to replace ($$$$). Even the gimbal bearing is expensive if damaged due to the labor involved.

I think my shop charges $200 for a "complete drive maintenance" - drain/fill, pull, check alignment, reinstall. Normally, every 2 years is sufficient on the alignment. But something very strange is going on if you've got a broken mount. Oh, the other thing about pulling the drive regularly is that if you don't, the drive shaft splines (which need regular lubrication) can dry up and get "stuck" in the coupler - and that can get expensive to fix too.

Now see, you thought it was going to be all pretty girls in calm coves and unforgettable family time. :lol:

(Actually the last part is true, but it takes a lot of work to get to that point.)

+1
Agree with others that they should not weld the mount if it is cast iron...it will just crack again. The cracked mount might be a fluke, or could be a sign of very rough usage of the boat?

I would think the drive removal/alignment/replacement would be 2-3 hours at a shop, not counting the engine mount repair.

Here is a blueprint of the Alignment Tool for Do-it-yourselfers:

http://www.rpengr.com/Alignment_Tool.PDF

ric · **Posted:** Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:23 pm

It is all pretty girls in calm coves!

When you use a boat as much as I do they never break. Boats hate sitting

skelly2130 · **Joined:** Sat Mar 30, 2013 11:40 am **Posts:** 4

Thanks for the great guidance on this question. I was out of town and still need to connect with the dealer to dig deeper. Sorry to say I'm not in much of a hurry with a foot and a half of ice hanging on at our lake.

www.iFourWinns.com

$$ down on 2008 H210 SS

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