www.iFourWinns.com

Pulled the boat from storage and went to start it in the driveway and when I turn the ignition key you hear the sound of the engine trying to crank, but sounds like the starter is not engaging. It is not just turn the key and hear a click, you hear it, but won't turn the engine over. I suspect the starter and/or solenoid? My starter is only a year old, but there is some corrosion on the terminals. I am cleaning them now. I also tried tapping it with a hammer, but no luck. My last thought is maybe the batteries have enough juice to trim the engine, but not enough to turn the engine over. I tried it with each battery individually and "all" selected on the perko. They had a full charge back in January and had them disconnected while in storage.

In the event the event the starter is bad, is there 1 or 2 bolts from the underside that bolt it in? I have seen the picture from the manual and appears as one but google images show 2. Anyone know the bolt size for them and the positive from the battery?

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

There are 2 bolts, under the engine in the back that point straight up into the block. If I remember right they are big ones like 9/16ths. Depending on access you might be able to reach them with a long ratchet and extension, or you might have to remove the exhaust manifold on that side to get enough clearance to get your arms under there. Here's a tip, those starters are heavy and its hard to hold it up and get the bolts out. I was able to do it but there was plenty of room in my boat as I was able to slide the battery on that side out of the way. Also my boat has none of the molded in fiberglass part of the top cap in the middle of you way like the newer bowriders have.
What you can do, is tie a line around the starter to hold it. Either get a helper to hold this line to keep tension on it to take pressure off the bolts, or put a 2x4 across the gunnels and tie the line to that. Don't forget there is supposed to be a front engine mount also right by the motor mount on that side. If you leave this off the starter can move and break the bolts (very bad).
Lastly, if your manifold drain on that side is right over the starter solenoid, it can drip right on the terminals and rust them up in no time. On my Cobra I had this problem, now I put OMC gasket sealer on that drain plug. And, make sure the batt switch is OFF before starting, you can dead short to ground very easily doing that job.

When you reinstall it, if you have strong arms and good access you can do it without tying the line around the starter, but its a good idea to do that anyway, it is not easy to hold up that heavy starter and get the bolts started at the same time. Been there done it twice, now I can have it out in 15 min if needed.

I put OMC triple guard grease on all the terminals after installing them.

But why not try charging both batts up to full charge and making sure all the terminals are clean first.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks Lou. My battery charger died and just went and got another. Charging them now and cleaning the connections up on the starter while it charges (all batteries disconnected from boat). Hope it is just the batteries did not have enough juice as the starter is only a year old.

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

Are they still using one standard bolt and one metric, like they did for decades? That was always a mystery to me. I agree, make sure your battery, cables, and all connections are good before you go to this much trouble.

On the other hand, the starter being a year old is something of a red flag if it was a rebuilt unit. Starters & alternators that have been rebuilt by someone else have always had a fairly high failure rate, partly because they only replace the parts that have to be replaced at that time. I used to rebuild my own and replaced every wear part in the unit - bearings & bushings, solenoid, alternator diodes, brushes, re-cut commutators, etc. Once upon a time I worked in a huge auto parts warehouse that sold tons of rebuilt starters & alternators. I'd guess at least 1/3 of them came back "defective."

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Both of mine were the same, 9/16ths I think. When I replaced the starter I got a new Sierra one and its been fine and the price was right. The main issue with starters is that they are marine spec and ignition protected but they are not water proof. In many boats the manifold drain point drains right on the starter. When I drain the manifold I put a plastic bag around the starter to keep water out of it.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Well I tried to clean up the connections on the starter. They are very rusty. The battery cable came out okay, and the left side (purple wire I think) came off okay. It was the wire on the blind side ( close to block) that the bolt snapped off in the socket. So even if the connections were just in need of cleaning, I cannot tell as I cannot bolt that other wire on.

Now with out that wire connected, there is no power to the helm and I cannot trim the engine up.

There is a poor design in access to the starter and the fact that corrosion gets on the bolts of the starter and they rust thru.

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

Well it sounds like you gotta pull out the starter and replace the solenoid, that's where the terminals are. Its actually pretty cheap (I did that the time the manifold drain dripped on the terminals and turned them into a rusted mess. I actually had to re-terminate all the wires they were so bad. Even since then I've been careful to make sure that that drain does not leak.
I had an MES starter for my first replacement and I got a Sierra solenoid and replaced it in about 15 min. A couple of years later I got a good deal on a Sierra starter and swapped that one in and kept the MES starter as a spare. If you have bad access you may need to remove the exhaust manifold on that side. Good idea to check the risers anyway if you have not done it (salt water use?)

Good luck and post back your experiences.....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Manifolds and risers were done not long ago. Yes salt water use. I am gong to replace it and then rebuild and have a spare if salvageable

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4