www.iFourWinns.com

Hi all,

I'm hoping someone who has upgraded to a dual batt setup has wired in their bilge pump to operate when the selector is in the 'OFF' position?
Either the Marine Mechanic's who installed this (prior to my purchase) wired this up wrong, or I always have to leave a battery 'ON' when I leave the boat anchored/ docked?
Any tips on what to connect to my factory fitted Attwood V450?

Cheers.

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2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS

It can be done either way, but the preferred way is so that it can't be shut off.
Since I have an old boat, one of the things you worry about is fuel leaks. I wired mine so the batt switch has to be left on, when its on the mooring because if there were ever a gas leak in the bilge, I want to be able to shut it OFF! The idea of an auto bilge pump pumping out gas is quite scary. No one uses the boat except for me so no worries about it getting turned off by accident.

If I remember right Graham may have posed up something about how to wire it up so its always on.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I think mine was wired directly to one of the 2 batteries when I bought it....

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2002 Funship 214
VP 5.7 GX Si
2003 Tahoe

I have always installed a 2nd pump and wired it to the 2nd battery. In other words, no one battery is powering all the pumps. I split the load up between 3 pumps & 4 batteries.

The 2004 factory dual battery set up (at least, the CE one) has both batteries permanently connected to the bilge pump via the fuse on the selector swich mounting plate. The fuse is connected to the battery input terminals on the back of the batterey switch, via a couple of diodes to prevent one bad battery discharging the other. The diodes are ASI 1N3208. They are mounted on a fixed insulator plate, rather than just hanging on by the wires. It's neat.

I also connected the ACP fuse and harness to the output side of the diodes, so it also runs off both batteries. The fuse holder for that is attached to the outside of the box that covers the rear of the selector switch Originally, that harness was just connected untidily to one battery positive terminal, with the fuse holder just hanging there..

Thanks for the responses, fellas.
Might anyone know which colour wire I'd be required to fuse & hard wire?
With it being hard wired, would this draw much current?

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2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS

Unless the auto switch for the bilge pump is triggered, it takes no current.

iI your boat is kept on the water, better that the bilge pump(s) always has power, rather than a leak sinking it. I'd rather find a flat battery than a boat that has sunk.

The POS wire you would fuse. As to current, that would depend on which pump you have.

The float switch seems to have some wires, too...
Just the positive of the pump?

_________________
2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS

Like anything else 12V, there is a POS & NEG (also known as ground) wires. One float wire goes to 12Vpos as in the pos side of the battery. The other float switch wire goes to the pos wire to the pump. The pumps neg wire goes to the neg side of the battery. I would fuse it on the pos side at the battery.