Solved: Hit a sandbar yesterday - propeller damaged

GalacticWaterman · **Posted:** Sun Jun 23, 2013 5:49 am

Well, I've found some informative videos on Youtube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gf0Q842zLng
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGxparP3FWE

Those guys made it look easy

I'll try again, but I am sure my prop was not coming off the shaft.
That ring was holding it back if I remember correctly .
Anyway, I'll give it another try soon.

GalacticWaterman · **Posted:** Wed Jun 26, 2013 4:14 am

Well, a small update.
Today I went to the marina to give it another try.
Well, sure enough, the prop just slid off the shaft without any problems.
I don't know how I missed it last time.
I guess my mind was focused on something else.
Anyway, that problem is solved. Tomorrow I'm taking the prop to the shop for repair.
If I get a new SS prop I'll post how it runs on my boat.

LouC · **Posted:** Wed Jun 26, 2013 5:08 am

Before you install it put some grease on the shaft that way if you need to remove it again It will come right off.

wkearney99 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 26, 2013 6:58 am

One point of buying another prop is to have a spare that can be swapped on quickly. This way you can get the boat back in the water and feel for whether there are other issues that might need repair. Otherwise you wait for the prop to be repaired, put it back on, and only then find out you need more work done. Given the delays associated with getting boat work done this ends up meaning you lose valuable time you could've been boating.

blue dragon · **Joined:** Tue Jul 12, 2011 5:01 pm **Posts:** 792

^^ Agreed, a second prop (and prop tool) are definitely worth the expense

LouC · **Posted:** Wed Jun 26, 2013 5:45 pm

So is a good depthfinder, LOL...I just put in a Garmin 441S and its great to have a depthfinder that works all the time unlike my old one that lost bottom every time we were on plane. The Garmin is a good fit on the dashboard of the smaller bowriders.....

wkearney99 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 26, 2013 6:24 pm

A depth finder isn't really good for when you're moving. Because by the time it shows you numbers you're already in trouble. The two times I've had depth-related prop damage it wasn't because I didn't look at the depth sounder. It was because I ignored the charts AND the local marked channels. Both times I'd have avoided trouble if I'd stuck closer to the areas with known sufficient depths. Both times the bottom was noted on the charts as going from 12+ feet to two in the span of just a few yards. No chance I'd ever have been able to pull back quickly enough to make a difference.

The only time the depth sender helped avoid bottom problems was while wandering around in an anchorage looking for a good spot to drop the hook. One area south of Kent Narrows that's notorious for shifting shoals was shockingly shallow compared to the last time I'd been there (2 years before). Since I was only puttering along at idle I had enough time to pull back into reverse hard enough to avoid issues.

Where it comes in most handy is during swim time. It's very helpful to let everyone know we're only in X feet of water, so they can avoid diving injuries. I try to avoid anchoring in less than 10' when possible.

rpengr · **Posted:** Wed Jun 26, 2013 6:35 pm

Once you remove the cotter-pin and nut, there is nothing holding the prop on except maybe gunked up grease and/or corrosion. I've never had one that would not come off with pulling by hand and maybe a little rapping with a rubber mallet.

You could spray some Liquid Wrench, or at least some WD-40 into the splines to soften the grease or corrosion.

GalacticWaterman · **Posted:** Thu Jun 27, 2013 7:15 pm

rpengr wrote:

Once you remove the cotter-pin and nut, there is nothing holding the prop on except maybe gunked up grease and/or corrosion. I've never had one that would not come off with pulling by hand and maybe a little rapping with a rubber mallet.

You could spray some Liquid Wrench, or at least some WD-40 into the splines to soften the grease or corrosion.

Yes, it did come right off. I just didn't try it first time :oops:

I was focusing on the next piece under the washer which is apparently part of the hub and does would not come off.
If I had just pulled on the prop it would've come right off.
And the shaft was nicely greased.
I also bought a tube of grease from the prop repair shop.

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Incase anyone finds this thread and wants more info on propMD.com I had an update.

Took my boat out for the first time with the freshly fixed and painted AL prop and when we got back to the dock the paint was already pealing off the prop. You could see noticeable bubbles under the paintd surface and I can tell that it is only going to get worse. I sent an email to them...will report back on how they want to solve this issue

ric · **Posted:** Sat May 23, 2015 11:01 am

Aluminum props are $120 new or you can buy perfectly good used ones at any shop for $40, why fix it?

DougT01 · **Joined:** Wed May 20, 2015 6:44 pm **Posts:** 121

I just took the prop off my new boat to grease.
The Castle nut was very tight had to use a breaker bar.
Then the prop wouldn't come off, grease was all dry and surface rust.
I was able to put the claws of my hammer between housing and back of prop.
A little nudge and it popped right off.

Cleaned everything back up and greased her real good. Won't have that issue again :-)

Doug

www.iFourWinns.com

Solved: Hit a sandbar yesterday - propeller damaged

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