2000 H180 w/5.0 GI Volvo will not start, turn over, etc.

GottWhat · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 4:17 pm

Hey guys. Took our new to us boat out for the fourth time for father’s day. We made it about a mile out of our Marina into St Clair. Hit a few waves and then a big one and the engine completely died. I put it neutral, checked the safety lanyard, turned the key and nothing would happen. I still had power to the trim, horn, blower and lights. However, there was no power to the starter and the radio didn’t even work. Called for a tow and got back to the marina. While waiting for the tow, I broke the safety lanyard key.

After getting back to shore, we bought a new lanyard. I checked the main 50 amp circuit breaker on the engine. That was good. I checked under the helm for bad connections. I pulled the connections off and on the ignition switch. I checked all the fuses under the helm. Battery connections were perfectly clean. I even tried connecting a battery jumper in case battery was too low. Everything was good.

So, right now I have no power to the dash, stereo or starter/engine. I had read something about the neutral safety switch. Think do you think the neutral safety switch might have gone bad? Is there a way to reset it? Or do you think it could be the ignition?

Thanks guys!

PS: My family has bad luck on father’s day. A few years ago my in-law’s just upgraded to a 38’ foot boat. They only had it for weeks when we were out on Father’s Day and hit the remnants of an old dock. It took out one of their rudders and props. Had to be towed back and the boat was up for parts and repair for almost 2 months! My in-law’s were with us today when we were towed so it is sort of becoming a family tradition to have a boating issue on Father’s Day!

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 6:07 pm

I doubt it's the neutral safety switch because all those other things that don't work have nothing to do with it, all it does is power the starter circuit with the gearshift in neutral. You need to figure out what is related to all those things. I'd be looking on the backside of the ignition switch and check those terminals carefully. The ignition and gauges are powered off the ig switch but the radio is not. So it's probably more than one thing.

meinmelb · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 7:19 pm

I know this sounds too simple but have you checked the battery terminals/ cables to the starter etc. Had similar issues with another boat where it would cut out over big waves until I found a loose connection from the battery / motor earth cable.

The earth cable to the dash may still be functional but the check the larger ones to the motor.

GottWhat · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 7:46 pm

LouC wrote:

I doubt it's the neutral safety switch because all those other things that don't work have nothing to do with it, all it does is power the starter circuit with the gearshift in neutral. You need to figure out what is related to all those things. I'd be looking on the backside of the ignition switch and check those terminals carefully. The ignition and gauges are powered off the ig switch but the radio is not. So it's probably more than one thing.

That makes sense concerning the safety switch.

However, on my boat the radio would only work prior to this with the ignition in ON/RUN (key to the right) or on accessory (to the left). I will check all the connections again. The first time I went through them, they were really clean and looked like new. Maybe I will apply some dielectric grease as well.

Thanks for your input Lou.

GottWhat · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 7:47 pm

meinmelb wrote:

I know this sounds too simple but have you checked the battery terminals/ cables to the starter etc. Had similar issues with another boat where it would cut out over big waves until I found a loose connection from the battery / motor earth cable.

The earth cable to the dash may still be functional but the check the larger ones to the motor.

The terminals on the battery were tight and clean. I will check the engine terminals as well.

Thanks

GottWhat · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 8:05 pm

Think I am just going to order a new ignition switch...only $16.49 at Amazon:

ric · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 8:19 pm

As a former model year 2000 H180 owner, the ignition switch went bad. Been there, done that. Paid the $20 for a new one. There's a picture of me somewhere on here getting towed home from it.

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 8:24 pm

I guess the newer boats are wired a little different than the older ones (radio works on mine with the ign off). I have many spares on the boat, impellers, impeller housing, thermo housing with new stat installed, and an ignition switch. You never know. I took apart one of the old style rocker switches trouble shooting my blower which died. Turns out it was just the blower and of course, had a spare one of those too. Cuz the old one was making a bit of noise...Next time I replace that, I'm getting one rated for continuous use like a Sureflow yellow tail....

GottWhat · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 8:30 pm

ric wrote:

As a former model year 2000 H180 owner, the ignition switch went bad. Been there, done that. Paid the $20 for a new one. There's a picture of me somewhere on here getting towed home from it.

My wife took a photo of me sitting in the bow next to my father in law while getting towed. Not a happy moment lol.

Maybe I should buy two ignition switches just in case.

LouC wrote:

I guess the newer boats are wired a little different than the older ones (radio works on mine with the ign off). I have many spares on the boat, impellers, impeller housing, thermo housing with new stat installed, and an ignition switch. You never know. I took apart one of the old style rocker switches trouble shooting my blower which died. Turns out it was just the blower and of course, had a spare one of those too. Cuz the old one was making a bit of noise...Next time I replace that, I'm getting one rated for continuous use like a Sureflow yellow tail....

I have only had my boat like 2 weeks and am already starting to accumulate spares.

PS: based on searches of old threads, Lou and Ric have been a great help already for me. I really appreciate you guys and the rest of the people that contribute here.

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2014 8:48 pm

BTW for future reference the best marine switches I have found are made by Cole-Hersee, they stand up to a salt water environment where I am located. They cost more but are worth it. Usually when these things fail its because they (boat builder) decided to use a cheaper supplier to save a few bucks. Blue Seas is also good.

GottWhat · **Posted:** Mon Jun 16, 2014 8:43 am

Thanks for the advice Lou

New ignition will be here on Wednesday and I will be able to install it that night or Thursday. I will provide a status update at that point

LouC · **Posted:** Mon Jun 16, 2014 3:12 pm

Let us know how it goes, also it might be a good idea to look around on the Four Winns site (look in customer service) and print out the sport boat wiring diagram for your year. It can come in very handy for trouble shooting electrical issues. A test light, and Volt/Ohmmeter to check volts & continuity is also highly recommended. This helped me narrow an intermittent no crank condition I had a few years ago, to the starter solenoid. Ig switch was sending power to the assist solenoid, and that was sending it to the starter solenoid, but the starter solenoid was taking a nap now and then....

GottWhat · **Posted:** Mon Jun 16, 2014 3:44 pm

LouC wrote:

Let us know how it goes, also it might be a good idea to look around on the Four Winns site (look in customer service) and print out the sport boat wiring diagram for your year. It can come in very handy for trouble shooting electrical issues. A test light, and Volt/Ohmmeter to check volts & continuity is also highly recommended. This helped me narrow an intermittent no crank condition I had a few years ago, to the starter solenoid. Ig switch was sending power to the assist solenoid, and that was sending it to the starter solenoid, but the starter solenoid was taking a nap now and then....

Will do, thanks

ric · **Posted:** Mon Jun 16, 2014 5:24 pm

Well if your 2000 h180 is like my h180, the wiring was put together by a bunch of grade school kids. I had to put new ends on everything so it was halfway reliable.

GottWhat · **Posted:** Mon Jun 16, 2014 5:49 pm

ric wrote:

Well if your 2000 h180 is like my h180, the wiring was put together by a bunch of grade school kids. I had to put new ends on everything so it was halfway reliable.

LOL - I can see how you would think that :lol:

What happened when your switch died? Did yours die while driving or did not just not start?

www.iFourWinns.com

2000 H180 w/5.0 GI Volvo will not start, turn over, etc.

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