www.iFourWinns.com

I pulled the bilge pump last night. Switch on dash would light up and thought it was turning the pump on. Since I discovered that it was not, I pulled the pump thinking it was bad. Wiring looked a bit corroded (heat shrinks looked worn). The pump is a 500gph two wires (brown and black). I touched them to a C battery and the little pump started spinning.

Since they are not that pricey (here is what looks to be the exact replacement)

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... 30/0?N=377 710&Ne=0&Ntt=bilge pump&Ntk=Primary Search&Ntx=mode matchallpartial&Nao=30&Ns=0&keyword=bilge pump&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=11&subdeptNum=75&classNum=304

I decided to replace it.

What I do not know is if the switch has a manual on/off and an auto mode. The above one says it has a chip that cycles it, but if my current switch and wiring is on off...then that will not work.

Does anyone know if the 2003's have an auto with manual override?

Any recommendations? Should I increase the GPH?

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

Your bilge pump should always function automatically as long as there is a battery in the boat! The built in switch will bring it on in the event that the water level rises to the point of "making" the switch contact. The switch on the dash is strictly for manually bringing on the pump should you care to dump the bilge. If you have battery switch you will find a breaker or fuse on the panel labeled "bilge pump". Most times these pumps need the float switch freed up and the impeller slots cleaned and they continue to work just fine.

Jim R has installed a backup pump at a higher level to prevent any catastrophic events if the original pump fails. Do a thread search and you'll find a good blurb.

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Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

Ok, so just rewire as it was? The two wires that run to a a wiring harness? Some of the bilge pumps for sale show a separate float. The little 500 one has it built in?

Just like to make sure I upgrade or do it better if it needs be.

Thanks

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

I think that if I were going to replace my pump I would increase the GPH as much as is feasible. Certainly can't hurt and you are going through the hassle any way. A future project of mine is to add another pump.

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2008 Horizon 260 VP 8.1 Gi

I forgot to measure the clearance under the engine. I think there is enough as the higher GPH makes them a different size.



Here is mine. I guess I was thinking there would a 3 wires. One for auto operation (always hot) and then one to switch and the negative.

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

Such tiny pumps, I get the impression FW ( and most other manufacturers) only fit them to comply with the minimum legal requirements and nothing to do with safety.

How about a T piece and a valve, so the engine raw water pump could drain the bilge in the event of a major leak (in actual fact the VP flush system could allow that, all that's needed is a hose from the flush attachment, with the other end put in the bilge !)

Graham

I know on the 200 Horizons the bilge pump is auto and manual, and it's confirmed via the owners manual wire diagram, that might be a good place to look to make sure.


Mike.

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Mike
2007 Horizon 200 SS
5.0 GXi SX drive.

My old 88 has a Rule 1100 GPH pump with a Sure Bail auto switch...it came with the pump but I added the switch some years back...if you want to go bigger on the pump...you want to check a couple of things...space to mount it...the amps the bigger one draws (you don't want to have a pump that draws more than the existing circuit can handle) and the exit hose...they come in different sizes...I'd want an 1100 gph as a minumum...I was going to go bigger but after checking I think I might have to upgrade the wiring to handle the amps...the Sure Bail by the way is a very reliable switch....it's been in there 7 years...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Check your battery wiring. There should be a fuse holder wired in directly with the pump switch. In addition there is also a fuse under the helm for the bilge pump.

Hope this helps you.

There is a fuse in the helm fuse box (10amp I think). There was no other fuse in the wiring that i could see to the bilge pump. There is a clear electrical connector just before the wiring goes under the floor up to the helm.

I am thinking my pump is only manual on and off.

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

On my 2004 boat, there are 2 fuses; one in the fuse box under the helm ( manual) and also one at the battery switch panel ( for auto operation, never disconnected from the battery).

Graham

The stock Rule 500 bilge pump is manual. This is why it only has two leads opposed to the three lead automatic pumps. FW usually installs them wired to a Rule float switch which provides for automatic operation, which the switch at the helm overrides. After reading the information Pascoe provides at this website http://www.yachtsurvey.com/bilge_pumps.htm I elected to upgrade my bilge pump to a Rule 2000, and eventually added a second back up bilge pump. Both required a new thru hull and larger ID hose. I'd do it again, here's the thread - http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1206

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Thanks Jim. I had read your thread (nice job). I had a feeling it was manual only. I trailer my boat, but we might keep it in the water at a friends lake house for a weekend so I want the float switch on it so I do not have to leave it running all night.

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

Ok I am torn as to which way to go with the new bilge pump. My boat is on the trailer, but there are times where we leave it in the water for the weekend.

I am going to replace the 500 rule with 1100.

Options:
(1)They make a strictly manual 1100. Two wires, runs on a switch on the helm. I can get it and the optional float switch (not sure how that wires into the manual pump, assume the float wires direct to the battery and in between the brown wire). This would then allow me to turn the battery off as I typically do and yet kick on if water activated the float.

(2) The 1100 (and a 500) have a second NEW model that has a computer chip in it that detects the water level and they say wires up to the old two wire manual switch. This sounds like the easy choice (plug and play with the old wiring), but, I typically shut the batteries off. So how would the computer chip be able to override the manual on/off switch and turn on the pump if the battery was off?

Any thoughts?

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

I think you both already have the stock Rule-A-Matic Float Switch FW uses with the Rule 500.



That float switch will work with any manual bilge pump. I still use it with my Rule 1500.



OMG, I can't believe all the crap in the bilge in that pic. I really have cleaned it several times since. Really, really.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP