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PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 3:20 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 7:14 pm
Posts: 29
Location: American Fork, Utah
last season i had my boat to the dealer for service. at that time i asked what the cost was for the gimble bearing service. after getting the quote i ok'd the job. then i recieved a call from the dealer and was told that my type of bearing was a "sealed" bearing an that no service was needed. i have searched the internet over and have found no info on this. anyone out there know if this is indeed true or not? 2007 190H GXI 4.3l Sx drive.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 3:31 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
My understanding is that it's true. In any case, "gimbal bearing service" should consist of 4 pumps of grease from a grease gun (i.e., no charge), unless there's something wrong with it, which shouldn't be the case on a boat that new. If their "gimbal bearing service" includes checking engine alignment, then I would expect them to charge for the work.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:06 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 7:14 pm
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Location: American Fork, Utah
thanks Mike. must the outdrive be pulled to grease the bearing?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:31 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
If the bearing is "maintenance free," it can't be greased in any case; someday it will just fail and have to be replaced. The previous generation could be greased without removing the drive.

However, there are other good reasons why the drive should be removed annually:

1. To check engine alignment - if the engine isn't correctly aligned with the gimbal bearing & drive, the engine coupler and the gimbal bearing can fail prematurely. The gimbal bearing isn't cheap to get replaced. The coupler - well, :shock:

2. To check the drive bellows - if a small tear or hole due to wear or abrasion develops, damage ranging from premature gimbal bearing failure all the way to boat sinking can occur.

The shop I use charges around $250 to pull the drive, check alignment & bellows, and change drive lube. If you're handy, it can all be done yourself with a few tools and a homemade drive stand, but I don't have either the time or the room.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 9:01 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 7:14 pm
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Location: American Fork, Utah
thanks again Mike!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 10:36 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
Yep that's about what it costs to have it done, I have been doing it myself for about 4 seasons now, I take it off when I winterize it and leave the drive in the garage. Check the gimble, ujoints and bellows. Grease both and if I found water in the drive lube I take the drive to be re-sealed over the winter. In the spring I put in a new impeller (impeller is in the drive on a Cobra) and reinstall the drive. Not hard but takes a little finagling to get the driveshaft to line up right when re-installing it. So over the 4 seasons I figure I've saved a grand on not having to have the shop to do the drive service, and I like being able to do these things myself.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 6:38 am
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Location: Baldwinsville, NY
VP now recommends pulling the drive every 2 years for service, i would recommend every 2 years in freshwater conditions as long as you do not see any signs of corrosion. saltwater it should be done every year. in upstate NY it is not uncommong to go several years without having to pull a drive, i have seen some as long as 6 or 7 years without being pulled and they come off with no issues. like some have said, even though the bearing is sealed its a good idea to grease the splines in the input shaft and the mating surface of the drive and bell housing.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:48 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 7:14 pm
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Location: American Fork, Utah
thanks brian

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 7:53 pm 
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Guppy

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So, if I get a lot of water in the bilge...not worries for water leaking into the gimbal bearing and it getting corroded, etc?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 9:41 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
Well unless you check the bellows you won't know where the water is coming from, unless you can actually see the leak source as it happens. For bilge water to actually get into the bellows it would have to be as high as the engine crankshaft, which I don't think is what you are referring to.
The problem with not checking is that by the time the problem manifests itself, you will have a noisy gimble and ujoints, both of which will need to be replaced, in addition to the bellows. That job will cost close to a grand by the time you are done. So in fresh water pull the drive at least every 2 years to check the bellows, gimble and ujoints and also to grease the drive shaft splines. In salt we do it each season. BTW, my boat has the original 23 year old coupler, and the splines on the coupler and driveshaft look great because it was greased each season.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 5:54 pm 
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Guppy

Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 1:00 am
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Location: Michigan
I replaced both of mine last year , and when I looked at them for the first time I realized I got the new sealed ones, at least now if ya have a leak in the boot, ya dont have to worry about damaging your bearing as well


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 8:37 pm 
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Although they are sealed, that does not mean they are waterproof. You still have to keep water out of the bellows, or you will have problems. If you let water sit in the bellows, the drive shaft will rust. It can rust into the coupler splines and then you can't remove the drive. Also if the part of the drive shaft that rides on the input shaft seal rusts, it will cause the seal to leak and then your drive oil will leak out of the drive and into the bellows. If you keep running it this way eventually the drive will be damaged due to low oil level but if you don't have a Merc with the drive oil bottle, you would not know that unless you checked the oil level in the drive.
When they say they are sealed, they are sealed to keep out dirt and dust but water certainly will get in and rust the needle bearings in the u joints and the races in the gimble bearing.
To me sealed bearings and ujoints can work fine but I prefer being able to grease them. The ujoints on my drive are original and still good, the gimble was replaced once. If you inspect the bellows as most manufacturers recommend, they could last the life of the boat.
I have the sealed wheel bearings and ujoints on my 98 Jeep and I have not had to replace one yet but this one does not get driven through deep water. It does have grease fittings on the suspension and it gets greased at every oil change. I have not had to change any of the ball joints or tie rod ends yet either...

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2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 1:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2009 9:59 pm
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Location: Lake Minnetonka, MN
I have an 08 F224 with Volvo. There are two bellows on there. I noticed when winterizing that water came out the top one. I had it hooked to a hose and ran it to complete the oil change. There were two small pinholes in the top rubber boot. I assume the purpose of this is to pump cooling water to the outdrive. Is this a correct assumption? So, a tear in the top one lets the cooling water escape, but is different than water in the gimbal bearing. Right?

I plan to replace both boots before the season. When doing this, I'll inspect and grease the bearings (in the lower boot, right?), check alignment and replace both boots.

Am I on target?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:22 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
Even though they changed the outdrive/ transom assembly in 2006/7 or thereabouts, the upper bellows will still be the one that the input shaft "lives in". There should NEVER be any water in there. Water in there can corrode the input shaft U/Js and the gimbal bearing. You might get away with it, the driveshaft bellows on mine let in water durring the first season (no VP sealant used by the factory) , but thankfully not enough salt water got in to cause more than surface corrosion.

Graham


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 10:45 pm 
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Wow. Interesting. Why would water come out of there when it's hooked to the hose? I connected the water hose to the fitting on top of the motor and turned it on. That's when I saw the water coming out. How would hose (cooling) water get in there from the water jackets?

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