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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 8:46 pm 
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ric wrote:
Ah. Rick's lesson of the day. You never tow a boat behind you with a rope like someone mentioned. The correct procedure to tow a boat is to reef it along side

you. You loose almost no maneuverability. 100% safe.

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Couple points...the alongside method mentioned by ric is not 100 percent safe at all. This method is to be used by the very experienced boat captains, which I'm not and neither is ric....sorry ric but this is a message to a new boater and he doesn't need to be misled. This method can can you into trouble in a hurryif in rough water and the caution is getting people entrapped in between the vessels not to mention the multiple lines under stress at close quarters. It is used by tugs and larger vessels for control especially in cases of loss rudder control.

PLUS...the tie off diagrams I have seen have two lines from the bow of the tow to the bow and midship of the tug...the tow will be more askew and farther ahead of the tug.....

The other method recommended and more commonly used is from stern to bow of the towed vessel. Especially in cases of smaller boats like the H190 you have. Don't use the deck cleats...these smaller boats don't have strong enough deck cleats like a large vessel...like a designed tug.

Best to call for a pro, but if not an option then use at least a 50 foot tow rope ....75 or 100 is better. Tie off to bow eye (what trailer winch ties to) on towed boat. Then tie to stern eye(s) of towing vessel. These are your strongest tow points on your style boat...same as mine and yours to ric. I use a seperate line that I attach to both stern eyes to distribute weight evenly and keep tow force in middle...this line is about 15 feet long. I have strong clip rings on each end of both lines.

The short line is clipped to the port and starboard side stern eyes...the long line is clipped to the center of the shorter line (i tie a loop knot at center of short line to attach the clip too that prevents sliding of that clip ring) and then to bow eye of towed vessel......

Go slow slow and the drive of towed vessel needs to be in water and straight ahead for added control. You keep a knife handy in case you need to cut free.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 11:55 am 
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I always use that method and it works quite well. In fact it's how we create a "party barge" with 3 boats with the center one providing power. Dangerous? No more dangerous than sitting at the dinner table.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 12:31 pm 
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The way ric showed is how the Tow Boat US guys tow in boats all the time. If tied up right it is safe.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 8:56 pm 
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Yeah but the Tow Boat guys are pros and do it all the time....we are not and rics party barge is on a 10 acre pond. Just saying the boater safety website details both methods and the caution that rough water can create problems and entrapment is a concern in the alongside method....to cut free you got several lines to deal with....if tied up alongside and the towed boat takes on water then what do you do as its pulling you down.

But hey...its to each their own....I personally would do as I have done....but to say the alongside method is the only way is wrong..

Ric I have to ask...how many times have you towed a disabled vessel in? I'm not talking about tieing up and partying on the pond.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 9:35 pm 
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This year alone I have to look at my pictures, but no less than 6

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 10:18 pm 
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Yeah..show us some pics of those 6 or more tow ins this year. You obviously are an expert towboat captain and I stand corrected...sorry.

I on the other hand i'm a rookie. I have been boating over 25 years and can't recall 6 tow ins. Might I suggest a mechanic or maintenance manual for those boating on the neighborhood lake. I guess boats are just better maintained in Texas.

Has anyone else on the forum towed in over 6 boaters in a year?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 11:47 pm 
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I towed 3 in one season, several miles each time (and with those I felt like I spent half the season towing people). I would not even consider going side x side for that exact reason. Yes, if I were a commercial captain piloting a boat built for towing that's how I'd do it. I'm not. Longest possible line and dead slow speed is the key to a successful tow along with low stress on both people and equipment.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 4:26 pm 
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I picked up a tow bridle from here http://www.mooringlines.com/tow_lines.htm
Its a 50' tow line with 20' stern lines. It'll attach to the two hooks on the stern, and I can tow by attaching to the bow hook on the boat being towed.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 7:22 pm 
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I usually have one per season. I even pulled one boat into the dock with my wave runner. Always pull slow with a long line, I have them hook to their own boat to make sure they take responsibility for that part. I rig a harness from both transom hooks on my boat. I also leave them in their boat so I don't have to listen to them whine about their problem. I carry a portable jump starter on board and have used that to help people a lot more than I have towed.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:49 am 
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As I said I may have towed in maybe 6 legit boaters. I do insist they tie off to bow eye though. Just because I don't want a cleat pulling out and becoming a missile headed toward me.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 31, 2013 10:15 am 
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230 Mike wrote:
I towed 3 in one season, several miles each time (and with those I felt like I spent half the season towing people). I would not even consider going side x side for that exact reason. Yes, if I were a commercial captain piloting a boat built for towing that's how I'd do it. I'm not. Longest possible line and dead slow speed is the key to a successful tow along with low stress on both people and equipment.


This^^^^^^^^

The folks I've towed in have typically been families stuck out on the main channel of the lake getting beaten to death by chop on a windy day. They are stressed as hell and there is no way I'm risking my cleats, fiberglass, gelcoat, or stressing my family out by going side by side with them in that rough of water. Many times the guy has offered me a 1/8" line that looks like an old beat up shoelace and it is about 13 feet long as the tow line to use. F*ck. And. No. I'm not letting that guy's boat anywhere near mine.

They are just happy to receive help. I don't care about his maneuverability- I'm pulling him several miles back to his boat ramp, dock, or marina. He's going to be back there behind the boat in a large lake channel; like pulling a really big ass tube. My control of my boat isn't affected in any way by this method. Once we get close enough to cut him loose to get where he needs to go, we can work with setting him up so that the wind won't kill his chances of getting where he needs to go or anything like that.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 31, 2013 2:57 pm 
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pet575 wrote:
... 1/8" line ...


:lol: LMAO -- yeah, it seems the people who need a tow are the same ones who use clothes line for anything that requires rope. And they usually have to first untie/cut it from their "anchor," a Folger's coffee can full of concrete with an eye bolt.

To be fair, the ones I've towed have almost all been people who didn't seem able to really afford a boat, but were doing the best they could to show their kids a good time. So I try to put myself in their shoes. Towing is a PITA though.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 12:40 am 
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I went to help a father son pair in a bassboat this past summer. They had an engine and electrical failure and were getting tied up to another boat for a tow. They hooked up as I described.

Water was rough and the waves started over the low profile bow. The boat became swamped and no longer visible. I threw the towing boat owner my knife and he cut them loose. Number 1....I was surprised he had no knife....with the stress on the line there was no way to untie. Imagine if tied side to side and having to free four lines in a hurry with sinker tied up to your port side.

This is why I say side by side isn't 100 percent safe. Turned out the electrical failure was due to flooding caused by faulty baitwell supply line. I picked up the father and son and we pulled them to shallows by hand with the line and bailed their boat. Doesn't take but a wave or two to swamp that style boat.

I agree with not wanting the banging on my boat...I don't want to tow anyone, but if no option I use the stern rig.

But back to thread.....stow a spare 75 foot line...if you need it then you have it....plus you can throw a line and cushion to a swimmer in distress faster than swimming to them.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 11:18 pm 
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Not to stir up the pot again, but I will.

A bud of mine is in the Coast Guard and i posed the tow question to him...alongside vs stern tow. He said most are stern tows unless very calm conditions and the deck cleats on the towed vessel are heavy duty. The height of gunnels is concern too since a single wake can cause one vessel to ride up on top of the gunnel of the other, since the single wake at port or starboard will affect the boats at different times.

He said a small fiberglass vessel would be towed by stern to bow since deck cleats arent strong enough. The advantage to alongside tow is putting them at Dockside easier, but with small boats its not an issue anyway. He did add that if not an emergency the larger boat captains are instructed to make anchor and summon a tow service.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 12:20 pm 
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threelapfancy wrote:
Hmmm, I'll have to check with my dealer to see what is included in new boat purchase. My sales rep did not mention anything specifically, but as you stated, hopefully some items will be included.

The dealer I purchased from is one of the largest in MN, and comes highly recommended from other FW dealers in neighboring states.

I'll email them, and report back.





So........ what was included by this "largest , highly recommended " dealer ????? :?: :?: :?:

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