www.iFourWinns.com

Hello,
today I took two photos of the bellows.
I think for this season they are good enough, but in fall I should replace them.

It would be very nice, if somebody could look at the pictures and give his opinion about.

Please use this two links. It was'nt possible to upload pictures here, therefore I chose an external service.


http://de.share-your-photo.com/799860a6d6

http://de.share-your-photo.com/776d3d80e5


Thanks,

Happy Easter

I'm seeing cracks between the folds, so I'd replace them. That's a sign that the rubber is getting weak. It might not leak this season, but then again it might. Salt water use? I see a few barnacles there...

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks a lot.
I do not know if this guys are barnacles. For me it feels like sponges.

So tomorrow I'll try to replace the bellows and clean up the pivot housing.


I use my boat in fresh water, on the rhine river in germany.

If they feel like sponges then they are not barnacles. You're lucky, barnacles are hard and sharp and they can cut a bellows or trim lines. I'd use an original equipment bellows at least for the driveshaft. The exhaust bellows is not that critical.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Hi,
I loose all screws and nuts and the shift cable, but I can only pull the outdrive 5 to 8 centimeters, then it stops.
Is there a special position to pull the outdrive?

5-8 cm meaning in our measurement approximately 2-3 inches
(sorry still have to think in English first).

Did you remove the retainers for the trim rams and the rod that goes through the upper gear housing?

Usually if the outdrive is stuck on, it won't move back that far. Has it moved back far enough to clear the 6 mounting studs on the transom mount? What can cause it to not come off is rust on the driveshaft splines where they fit into the engine coupler, or rust on the driveshaft where it passes through the gimble bearing. This is why checking the bellows for water leaks is so important, water in there causes maintenance head aches. Anyway, if you have a stand to support the drive, you might try pulling it back and forth (be careful not to pinch your fingers between the drive and the transom mount) to break loose any corrosion that might be causing it to hang up. Now I have an OMC Cobra and the transom design is very similar but the design of the shift cable is different. On the Cobra, the drive will come right off without disconnecting the cable at all, there is a cable guide that fits into the shift rod on the outdrive. On the Volvo, the cable comes through the upper gear housing and mates up with the bell crank on the shift rod. Is it possible that the cable end is hanging up on the hole it passes through in the upper gear housing? Have someone look at the cable end when you try to remove the drive. I would check this last point, first. Others here have more Volvo knowledge than I, since the only boat I have owned has the Cobra....

Look here, post number 4...did you remove the connector from the shift cable end???

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-r ... -out-drive

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Hi,
thank you for your helpful hint.

I finished my work. Probably I was too careful when I try to pull.
With a wooden wedge I've reached my goal.


Thanks a lot and happy easter.

Congrats on your success!
Just check the splines in the driveshaft for rust and the area where it fits through the gimble bearing. Make sure the gimble bearing rotates smoothly and that the u-joints are smooth and not stiff. If you have grease fittings for both, grease the gimble while turning it with your fingers, and grease the u-joints if they have grease fittings.

Normally if an outdrive has been regularly serviced it will slide right off.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Last Fall, a professional workshop did a full service with winterizing and after I've removed the outdrive I saw, they did their job.

At this time I decided, that I will replace the bellows by myself, for saving money.
Here in Germany boating (material and workshops) is expensive.
I have to pay more than 140$ for the bellows and additionaly round about 80$ per hour for the guy in the workshop.
All in all 280$ to 300$.

In retrospect, actually it was very easy and a great way to save money.


Thanks a lot.

Here the bellows is cheaper but the labor is more (bellows $70 US but typical labor is about $100, sometimes more).

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I've one question more.

When I bought my boat, the depth sounder/display, which is integrated in the dashpanel did not work.
The dealer installed me a new one for free, because he had no possibility to fix it.

Yesterday evening I saw, a adapter cable is missing.
The wire from the depth sender to the dashpanel is installed, but the plug does not fit.

The plug of the cable has less pins than the port on the dashpanel.
So I'm convinced I need an adapter.
After some internet research I found out, that the manufacturer should be lowrance and Four Winns build it in in their dashpanels.
Furthermore there are different adapters on the market, but I don't know, which one I need.
perhaps the HARNESS ADAPTER TRANDUCER TA-303.
Do I need an additional power cable?

That I could not say because I have a Garmin chart plotter/Fish-finder on my old '88.
I would post this as a new topic, perhaps some of te owners of newer boats have the same thing you do.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Hi,
when I wrote my last message, the bellow replacement was successfully.
As I wrote before, there was no gasket between upper gearhousing and transom.
I replaced the small gasket for the water passage on the left side of the transom and the bellows.
As I understand, the u-joint bellows will seal the u-joint by a small sealing lip inside and there is no need for a extra gasket!?
Is that true?
It's a 1995 OMC Cobra SX.

That is correct. There is no gasket between the drive and the transom mount, except for the little water passage one. If I had one of these models I'd coat the area with the 6 studs with marine grease and the corresponding area on the upper gear housing with marine grease to reduce the chance that corrosion might make it hard to remove the drive next time. My older style OMC Cobra does use a gasket between the drive and the transom mount. You have to coat it with OMC gasket sealer or Permatex to make it seal. It does make it easy to remove the drive because there is no contact between the drive and the transom mount so it can't get corroded on.
1986-1993 OMC Cobra--gasket between drive and transom plus the water passage gasket
1994 and newer--no gasket between drive and transom, only the water passage one. This applies to the Joint Venture OMC Cobra and also the Volvo SX...

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

thanks a lot for this information.