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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 11:33 am 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
I think you should enjoy the boat between now and next fall, and then insist on the new engine. I would have a talk now with the marina and with Volvo - verbally and in writing - and let them know that based on history to-date, any detectable drop in oil level will result in your insistence on the new engine. There's a lot about that story that doesn't add up IMO.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 8:53 pm 
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It sounds like they are trying to address your concerns. I'd monitor that oil consumption very carefully, that is one thing that you don't want to get stuck with, a new boat with an engine that burns oil. I usually do about 50-60 hrs per season and I have only had to add maybe 1/2 qt of oil over the season from May to October. This engine is an original 1988 4.3 Chevy/OMC Cobra. I use Chevron Delo 400 straight 30 in it. I looked on Volvo's website and I seem to recall they recommend synthetic straight 30 which is not what they told you. I'd double check what is stated in the owner's manual as far as what oil to use. Since you still have the warrantee, another thing to check which if neglected can cost big bucks is water in the gear oil. When I change the oil in the fall when I winterize, I always let it sit in a container overnight and see if water seperates out, and I always look to see if what comes out when I first pull the drain is milky looking (water being heavier than gear oil will drop to the bottom). I have had my drive re-sealed a couple of times and that has helped make it last this long (going on 21 years old). Finally I'd make sure there is no water in the bellows (leaking bellows, not common on a new boat but it can happen) or gear oil leaking there from the input shaft seal. These are things I check every season when I remove the drive at winterization. Good luck with the boat and enjoy it!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 9:25 pm 
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Location: Northshore Boston & 1000 Islands
I am glad that your dealer is taking care of all of your issue.. I would not expect any thing less from Four Winns. I never had an issue with oil consumption on my old 06 Horizon 240 with VP 5.7Gi I was using straight 30W Volvo Synthetic Oil since 20 hours service. At 90 hours mark (2nd year) the oil level was almost same as at 20 hours mark.
Volvo’s manual (page 100) shows to use 30W mineral-based oil for the first 150 hours of operation. Then you can stay with 30W mineral-based oil with change intervals of 100 hours or change to 30 W Synthetic oil with change intervals of 100 hours

I personally do not believe changing oil to mineral-based oil would solve your issue so please keep eye on the level. I think it will drop so get ready to demand a new engine.
Also you should demand your dealer / VP to give you an extended 5 year warranty and not just few extra months.

Keep in touch

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 4:08 am 
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Location: Chester, UK
Re LouC's comment about water in the bellows on a new boat; after the first season in 2005 with my 2004 "carry over" boat , I found some salt water in my bellows, not a huge amount but the drive shaft and UJ yokes were starting to go rusty. The gasket cement that goes on each end of the bellows (as per the VP outdrive manual) had not been used when the boat was built. I guess the cement is used to compensate for any relaxation in the rubber when it is under the clamping loads and prevent seepage.

The original bellows looked OK, but the dealer (over 100 miles away) gave me new one anyhow (plus some other bits and pieces) and I changed it "just in case" ( and I do use the cement; I never found any water since).

Neither the '99 5.7 GSi I had (from 108 to 270 hours) or the '04 5.7GXi i have now have ever used any engine oil ( but the last 2 seasons have been unfortunately been very low engine hours; 50 hours per season in '05 and '06 though).

Graham


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 10:09 pm 
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Location: Urbandale, Ia
I'm going to have to reread the oil advice they gave you. Never heard of an engine not handling switching between oils okay. Makes me wonder about mine...even though I've never had a problem I'll watch closely now.

Speaking of which...how do you all check your oil? How do you know the engine is level and you're getting an accurate reading?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 3:07 am 
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When I change the oil, I put back in the volume I have taken out ( with the new filter filled before being fitted). My boat is on the water all season, so it sits at the same level. The acceptable level on the dipstick is a range, so a degree or so either way when on a trailer doesn't make much difference I think.

Graham


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 7:08 am 
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Getting the oil level correct with the boat on the trailer can be tricky, I use a level on the swim platform and try to get it pretty level from port to starboard and fore & aft, since when I do the oil change I am also draining the water out for winterization and it drains best if level. When the boat is in the water it's easier to get the level correct (like Graham's mine sits in the water all summer). I also measure what comes out and just put in that same amount. I took a gallon container and marked it off in 1 qt intervals, so I can get it pretty close. BTW I have not been able to get more than 3 qts out of my 4.3, which is supposed to take 4.5 qts total (1/2 for the filter). It takes about a qt less than the V-8s do. I'd love to get to the drain on the pan and install one of the the drain hoses, but I really don't want to fiddle with a 21 year old fitting that is not leaking!

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 9:18 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 5:02 pm
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Location: New Hampshire
Work with your dealer and document everything.
Make sure the Spring work oder specifies that the oil change was made with mineral oil and the dipstick level is documented. Monitor and document, with the dealer, the oil level throughout the season.

Good luck

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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 6:47 pm 
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UPDATE:
Just picked up the boat from winter storage with a brand new 5.7 which was installed over the winter, which Volvo covered parts and labor. The oil consumption was not normal and they decided to replace the long block. Hopefully there will be no more issues. The marina was very easy to deal with and was very helpful with getting this pushed through. I'm not happy with the way Volvo handled it but at least it got done. All of my other issues are handled, hopefully I don't get any more water in the bilge which has been a constant problem since I took delivery. Its going in the water on Saturday! The only thing that really sucks is going through the 20 hour brake in period all over again!

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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:40 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
Thanks for the follow up, and congratulations on finally getting this resolved.

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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 9:31 am 
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masssteve wrote:
UPDATE:
Just picked up the boat from winter storage with a brand new 5.7 which was installed over the winter, which Volvo covered parts and labor. The oil consumption was not normal and they decided to replace the long block. Hopefully there will be no more issues. The marina was very easy to deal with and was very helpful with getting this pushed through. I'm not happy with the way Volvo handled it but at least it got done. All of my other issues are handled, hopefully I don't get any more water in the bilge which has been a constant problem since I took delivery. Its going in the water on Saturday! The only thing that really sucks is going through the 20 hour brake in period all over again!


Issues with water in the bilge can be hard to isolate. Sounds like your anchor locker lid was resealed. I'd think that should be easy enough to check in the driveway with a garden hose. As to water being forced up the anchor locker drain, adding an inline check valve should be easy enough. Other sources are leaky boat covers (particularly around the windsheild and walk thru doors), water dripping from bathers re-boarding(pretty much unavoidable), and leaks in engine hoses, drain plugs, etc. The most common way of finding the engine/hose type of leaks is direct observation while the boat is in the water running at idle. I've heard of folks using powder, or even looking for leaks while a buddy is running the boat at full throttle, but my recommendation is to keep it simple. Good luck!

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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 9:02 am 
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I am glad to see everything is finally working out for you.

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