www.iFourWinns.com

It's just a weak device. Mine is no weaker now than it was on delivery day. The idea of gluing something into the "V" to beef it up is good in theory but I don't think it'll stay in there, or else it will prevent the pad from opening completely.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I agree the teflon tape is very thin and I don't think my black spring is worn out. Actually if the cushion on the port side wasn't so stuffed it the center cushion would probably stay up. How about putting filling the black springy thing "V" with some soft rubber or something so that it doesn't give as much? Maybe a little glued strip or chuck of rubber or???? I'm talking about inside the V versus on the leading edge. Hmmmmm

Ok, my idea about thinning the teflon thingy is a no go. How about taking a file or dremel to the 'bottom' of the pivot at the hinge. Right now the non-rounded side looks like a 45. Maybe file it so the angle is increased such that the cushion leans outward a bit more. Probably have to do both hinges. I'm sure that some would be concerned with filing off the hinge coating, probably just white paint, but if it's like the coating on the swim ladders, plasti-dip makes a white brush on dip product which is a good match.

Need me to photoshop what I'm suggesting here? Easy enough. Trim to the red line.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Though my cushions are different, they do the same thing. I just keep a few bungee's in the boat for various reasons. One use is to go around the cushion and to one of the cleats. Works great, and doesn't require any engineering. I like to leave my cushion up a bunch. The carpet under it gets dripped on when we get out of the water, so when the cushion is down, doesn't dry at all, and is susceptible to mildew. The bungee holds it up, keeps it exposed to the sun and airflow.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

No engineering!!?? What fun is that?

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I like this idea. Now if I can talk Mike into trying it first to see how well it works we will be in business!!!


Walt - I like your idea as well but I hate using a bungee in such an obvious place but maybe that's the answer???

Very good idea, Jim. FW, he who posts the first photo, makes the first cut.

If it weren't for the rivets, it would be no work at all to take the leaves off and hold them together as one unit against the side of a grinding wheel. I'd also recommend adjusting Jim's cut line to get maximum overtravel without interfering with the mating cushions.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I was afraid you would say something like that!

Let me think this over before I get to grinding................

Engineering solution? As a matter of interest, the hinge pin looks like it's a rivet of some sort, rather than a proper pin; how sloppy is that rivet in either half of that bracket? Any slop will result in the pressure from the "black thingy" not being enough to hold the base in the vertical position. Even if it is just a slightly sloppy fit, then replacing the rivets with countersunk bolts/ locknuts, possibly in conjunction with plastic bushes could improve it. You would then be able to adjust the hinge friction as well; using a thin plastic washer between the two hinge faces to prevent wear of the coating on the contacting surfaces.

Graham

I think Graham is on the right track with this suggestion. But it was also noted that the black tensioner might also be an issue. Perhaps a combination of efforts would be ideal. Replace the black tensioner (or whatever it's called) and also the hinge pin. I'd start with just the tensioner and see if it helps enough. Replacing the hinge pin would be a bit more problematic because of the way cushion above it has to straddle the hinge arm. Any protrusion would raise the potential risk of wearing out the vinyl on the cushion. Some sort of cap or shield on the replacement fasteners would seem like a good idea.

I don't know that grinding down that surface would be the right choice. I don't have a seat like this so I can't really say for sure. But in looking at what appears to be a wear pattern, the arm actually NEEDS the length of the arm. Removing that portion looks like it might make matters worse. But, again, I've never seen this sort of assembly and I'm just going off that one picture.

I would suggest that assembly is not made by FW. Most parts aren't. I'd contact the factory and ask who makes it for them. That company may be able to offer better solutions to the problem.

Also consider asking a local boat upholstery shop. Seems like something they'd have dealt with in the past.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

The issue (and I'd like to think it's the reason FW used rivets here) is that any protrusion by bolt heads would interfere with and/or chafe the surrounding upholstery. There isn't as much clearance around that assembly as the photos make it appear. I agree Graham's solution would be ideal, if there was room, and the clearance argument should be verified before anything else is done.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

A bolt with a countersunk head and the locknut ground down so it only has a few threads left + the nyloc bit? I reckon you could get down to 4-5 mm on the nut height.

There is however already an unused countersunk hole in the bracket; the rivet/ hinge pin may well be set in another countersunk hole; if so, the countersink is probably on the wrong side for a contersunk bolt unfortunately!

Graham