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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 1:50 pm 
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Location: North Bay, Ontario Canada
Ric, 10.69 each at McMaster Carr for stainless.....

http://www.mcmaster.com/#lift-off-hinges/=gz5u7n

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:08 am 
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Well, it's 8 am, and I've been playing around for a little while with the latch. Here it is....

Image

I wanted to make sure it would fit propperly, so I modeled the door as well....

Image

looking closer...

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and with the latch opened....

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The material for this is 14 gauge 316 stainless (.079 thick). It looks to be about the right thickness, and should stand up alright. A 1/4" shoulder bolt, 3/4" long works out perfect for the pivot. Cap it with an acorn nut and some thread lock, and you are good to go.

Now, time to do the drawing. Shouldn't take long... 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:33 am 
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chrisvs wrote:
Giffo, the doors weren't an option for our generation of 180. Too bad, they would have been nice to have. maybe time to build them too?


yeah mate, I might give it a go. Cannot be that hard for an old carpenter!!!

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:47 am 
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Location: North Bay, Ontario Canada
Here is a quick drawing of the latch

Image

The pivot hole for the latch is 1-1/2 inches from both the top and side edge of the door. That will let the hinge sit flat when resting on the other door half and it will sit flat against the door that it is mounted to when folded all the way down. If the latch sits loose against the other door and the two rattle a bit when they are closed, just squeeze the two sides of the latch a bit together so that it is a snug fit to the other door half. should be good to go.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:49 am 
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Giffo, for an old carpenter, you should be able to do it in your sleep, and have it done by morning... :lol:

Cheers mate.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:57 am 
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Location: Austin, TX
Holycrap, you're the man! Now.. where could I get that made??

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Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:07 am 
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Location: North Bay, Ontario Canada
Any fab shop that works with sheet metal could do it for you. I am sure that any marine fab shop would have that kind of sheet stainless kicking around. They could make it out of a scrap, it is so small.... be a bit flexible and you should be able to get it for a bit cheaper. If he has a different gauge of sheet that he can use, go for it. Be flexible for time too, it all helps with the bottom line for any shop.

I just did a quick search on fab shops in orlando, here is the list I found. If you can find a small shop that isn't busy, that would be your best bet.

http://www.hotfrog.com/Products/Steel-Fabrication/FL

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:52 am 
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Location: Austin, TX
I put an ad on craigslist, let's see what happens.

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2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:28 am 
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chrisvs wrote:
I think the hinges and starboard are excellent for the door. I'm not so sure you would be happy with that latch though. I think with either the french doors or a single door, it would rattle enough to drive you nuts. I would also have the hinge point right under the base of the center windshield section so that the doors couldn't jump out unexpectedly. The base of the windshield would "capture the door" so to speak.

Have a look at this flip over latch on the four winns doors for the 200, If you could order it from them, I would use it. The listing in the catalogue is for the entire door assembly, so I don't know if you can get just the latch. this latch is perfect for the french doors as it fits snug to keep the doors from flopping and rattling. Magnets to keep them open would be the way I would go as well.

Image

If you can't find this kind of latch, I could draw one up in a hurry so that you could make one.... :wink:


This is the one that is on my boat but I doubt it is the best way to hold those doors shut since it does make noise and rattle plenty. I would like to remove the doors since in the heat of south florida they are not really needed to keep cold air from entering cockpit area


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:37 am 
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If those fit a 210 and you want to sell them, let me know!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 12:21 pm 
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Nice work chrisvs !!

Is there some disadvantage to just snapping down the bow canvas to cover the walk thru on those colder mornings?
Seems to be a simple fix, that is already made for the boat.

Just asking, since I am a bowrider newbie. :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 12:41 pm 
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Probably depends on why he wants to close the bow area off...it seems like that would also accomplish the goal, but he'd lose the use of the bow.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 4:08 pm 
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My snap in cover is original 2000, it's fragile. I just fixed it again yesterday, a seam ripped and had to sew in a new piece of fabric and install 4 new snaps. A bow door is clean looking and with the removable hinges not stuck there. I want it to pretty much close off the bow area when anchored so when I throw the mosquito net over the bimini top bugs have a harder time flying in.

It also rains A LOT during the summer and when caught in a storm that will make things much dryer.

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 4:52 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
Hey Ric,

At least your Summer rain is warm; here's it's usually about 50- 60 deg F with 30+ mph winds when it rains in the Summer !

The rain was pretty cold in the Theme Parks in Orlando in February 2010 though !

Graham


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 6:00 am 
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Cap'n Morgan wrote:
Nice work chrisvs !!

Is there some disadvantage to just snapping down the bow canvas to cover the walk thru on those colder mornings?
Seems to be a simple fix, that is already made for the boat.

Just asking, since I am a bowrider newbie. :wink:


Thanks Cap'n.... I've been playing with the solidworks stuff like that for 21 years now, so something like that is quick and easy. You should see what I am working on now... picture the steel framework for a small 5 story building with 20' between the floors all being suspended by it's roof... and an excavator hanging off the bottom... Only 210,000 lbs of steel.... :P We do some strange stuff in the mining industry!

Snapping the bow cover is what we do all the time. No disadvantage, just a different way to do it. It certainly cuts the wind down. I was going to mention it to you when you posted pics of that awesome new Monty of yours! Early spring & late fall, our bow cover and the convertible top with the sides zipped in are the best upgrade that we spent money on. The doors would be nice as they would let you get to the bow to tender lines in a hurry without having to un-snap the bow cover again (when you are returning to the docks or marina). That is the one advantage I could think of in favor of the doors.

Here's how we usually rolll, from begining of season until the water warms up.
Image

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