'93 190 Horizon. 20 year revival (Pic heavy)

Jdpber · **Posted:** Tue Oct 14, 2014 12:18 pm

valid point my thoughts are are screws that secure it down.. i may go to a hinge i will have to decide as the locations where the screws are that wood is poopoo and will be replaced. I have also decided to go from the above HUGE square floor locker to a tad skinnier hatch on hinges so that i can have it open on a gas shock between the seats. Where at present the huge hatch i have to slide to the side and it is awkward for the wife or a friend that does not know exactly how to move the hatch and what not.

Got in the heavy duty 5/32 thick solid Stainless steel polished hatch hinges for the engine room hatch.. Yes i have decided to call it an engine room as i feel that if i have the ability to sit not he floor with my legs next to the engine that is considered a room.. and not a compartment.

Seats are up int he loft. and the bench/futon/daybed/2nd sun pad..aka HUGE f***ing WAISTE OF SPACE AND BLOCKS STORAGE is officially out of the boat for good. The captain seats are up in the loft for storage until it is time to work on upholstery being that they are (usable) as is and can be worked on at any point in time in the future. minor detail.

LouC · **Posted:** Tue Oct 14, 2014 1:43 pm

My hatch is screwed down. What I did was re produce the frame around the tank but instead of rot prone pine that FW used, I used rot resistant mahogany, you can see the darker colored wood in my pic. That way I didn't have to worry about rot starting in the holes drilled to hold down the hatch. It's still all solid in there 7 seasons later...

jontmiller · **Joined:** Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:16 am **Posts:** 296

its a catch 22, keep the hatch and the fuel tank etc will last forever, lose the hatch and you will have an issue second time out next year.

wish you would come up and do my boat...you do nice work

Jdpber · **Posted:** Tue Oct 14, 2014 2:17 pm

jontmiller wrote:

its a catch 22, keep the hatch and the fuel tank etc will last forever, lose the hatch and you will have an issue second time out next year.

wish you would come up and do my boat...you do nice work

no joke i have been pondering a solution all day..

Thanks

I am FOR SURE replacing the fittings and hoses. No question about that. NEW HOSES, NEW Fittings, NEW SS filler neck, NEW SS flush vent.

And finally i will have the access to be able to properly mount my big Racor water separator.

I keep thinking how nice the over sized wide floor storage is, and then i remember all the times it is a pain in my ass to have to move the hatch and lean it somewhere. A narrower between he seats hatch on gas strut will be so nice and easy..

LouC · **Posted:** Tue Oct 14, 2014 2:57 pm

Mine was built with the hatch but if it was not, I would have corrected that 'mistake' in the rebuild. There is really no good reason not to have one. These boats should be covered when not in use. A fishing boat that is left open the deck gets wet all the time, then I can see why some would not want the hatch but I'd still put one in, just make a good gasket for it sealed with Life Caulk or similar. You don't want have to cut up a deck you fixed a few years ago, to replace a tank. These are all old boats now....

The only way I do boating, is if I can do nearly all the work myself. I eliminate anything that gets in the way of me being the mechanic. I change things that were poorly done to make it easy to take apart like it should have been in the first place.

When I re-did the interior (in 2007) I kept the big bench seat in the back because then my son and his friends all came on the boat often. Now they are grown up and they don't. If I were doing it now, I'd keep the captain seats for the helm and make a simple dog house engine cover with couple of removable jump seats. That's it, no crap in the way of me and my wrenches lol.....

Jdpber · **Posted:** Tue Oct 14, 2014 3:56 pm

LouC - my design will allow for maximum engine access.. and the bench seat will have 4 bolts into SS glassed into the floor bolt anchor points. remove those and the box can slide forward of fully removed from boat.. i am also adding extra space in front of the engine.. a huge part of all of this is for a rear hatch and engine access improvement. REMEMBER i have a stupid spin platform entry sun pad hatch at the moment..

LouC · **Posted:** Tue Oct 14, 2014 4:59 pm

I love the design. May I make one suggestion, to make the rear seat in 2 halves instead of one big one, this way each section is lighter easier to move. When I winterize I can just remove the port side rear seat open the bulkhead and reach around for the drains on the starboard side.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Wed Oct 15, 2014 9:52 am

LouC i want the storage. the backrest lifting up will yield a ton of access..

UPS delivered a heavy 58# roll of 1708, 15# of top glass. and a new bubble buster 6" roller.

We got 3.5" of rain yesterday at my house.. BUT today it is bright and sunny YAY.

1708

top glass

Jdpber · **Posted:** Wed Oct 15, 2014 10:31 am

I think i have decided to order this ski locker hatch. Reasons. 1) it has $70 in new SS hardware included. 2) it will save me an easy 5-6 hours of work. 3) it will save me materials 4) it is the size i want and will work in the way that i want..

goals for new ski locker hatch. Do not limit the size of contents, be large, able to be opened by any MORON, the oversize SQUARE existing hatch in the factory sizing with a single panel you have to work it to get it out of the way, the wife has to be able to operate it, and finally most important it must be able to hinge open ad clear the seats..

this one will clear the dash walk thru for a full vertical opening on a gas shock so that is an added plus. for $112 shipped and be here beginning of the week.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Wed Oct 15, 2014 9:05 pm

Ok after talking with a few other boating friends the hatch stays.

I got in the boat tonight and got up most everything needed out of the way so I can skill saw the floor out. Well looks like only the port side floor was replaced the starboard side was original glasses in. Looks like the source of the original rot was most likely the seat base screw holes. I am sure someone never silicon or calced the threads. I need to get some solvent to remove the glue from the wall sides.

Now for the Goods hammer test shows that only a foot of the factory floor is rotten. The cockpit will get 2 new sheets of 3/4 marine ply. Glass on both sides then glassed in. A new engine break wall between the fuel tank and the engine will be installed. I hope to begin fiberglass sunday. The hatch supports will need replacement also.

My foot in my stylish Walmart frocks marks where the end of the 2nd ply will be at 8'.

The factory glass you can see. This was under the rear bench seat.

TX H210SS · **Joined:** Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am **Posts:** 1488

Would there be clearance to hinge the front of the rear seat box. If so you could raise the combo hatch seat back and then rotate the entire seat box forward and have close to total engine access for maintenance and cleaning.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Thu Oct 16, 2014 9:11 am

TX H210SS wrote:

Would there be clearance to hinge the front of the rear seat box. If so you could raise the combo hatch seat back and then rotate the entire seat box forward and have close to total engine access for maintenance and cleaning.

I have thought of that and i do not like the idea of having to lift that heavy of a box full of shit.

At the moment the plan is to lay a sheet of 1/2 Kings Star board no the floor secured and sealed to the floor. and then have a few screws securing the bench seat box to the StarBoard (synthetic will never rot) it is also a slick surface so i would pull a couple bolts and simply slide the box 8-10" forward.. this will yield a ton of added room if needed..

The raised box will also act as a toe kick and the box will not directly sit on the deck.. the water will be diverted to the side and into the bilge. I may have a channel down the center into the bilge. i have to think that detail out.

At the moment i am trying to decide if it is worth the extra $40 to go to honey comb for the rear hatch to save 20# off of the hatch weight..

john55c · **Posted:** Thu Oct 16, 2014 12:18 pm

LouC wrote:

Keep the hatch, it you ever have to replace the tank you'll wish you did.

+1 Plus, I don't know about yours, but to replace hoses, such as filler, vent, and access to the sending unit, etc. you will definitely want to keep that access.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Thu Oct 16, 2014 12:29 pm

BoYs and GuRlz the hatch is staying.. I plan to screw it down with sealant int he screws as always.. and run a nice bead of calc or a sealant of my choosing, simply i want the water to run in a certain manner to the stern and not down into the bilge... that connects to my Ski locker.. i want my ski locker to remain a dry space as much as possible like it is now...

also i know if i seal up the floor i will be forced to cut it up to fix. and the only other option is a 8" round access port and i do not really want to do that..

LouC · **Posted:** Thu Oct 16, 2014 2:51 pm

Sounds great what I love about these discussions is the exchange of ideas and everyone learns from it. Nice thing about the old school boats is you can re do them any way you want...

www.iFourWinns.com

'93 190 Horizon. 20 year revival (Pic heavy)

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