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ric · **Posted:** Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:15 am

The MAX rpm has nothing to do with the cam directly, it's the valve train. The GL has flat hydraulic tappets. The FI engines are roller tappets, which allow for the higher RPMs. As I stated before, the best move is to just pick up a set of Vortec heads, stock 350 ramjet cam, and vortec intake. All can be had for under $1000 installed. They're generic automotive parts that can be had for nothing. It's so easy to do yourself. With the vortec heads and roller cam you'll be sitting at a solid 340hp. If you sit with your current heads you'll never see above 260.

deafwish · **Posted:** Fri Nov 16, 2012 4:52 pm

Cheers for the input, but I'm thinking an additional 300RPM isn't really going to put the engine under alot more strain...
The cam kit comes with replacement lifters & valve springs, which will make this a more comprehensive upgrade.
I'm wanting to keep this a very simple upgrade & do not want to mess about with heads etc.
Second hand stuff like this is harder to come by in Oz than the USA & the price refelcts this!

Aussie_Horizon_190 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 18, 2012 6:17 pm

Stick with Crows recommendations is my advice - they have been doing this for a long time and the price is pretty reasonable. You definitely want to run new lifters with a new cam, and matching valve springs. You can change the springs without removing the heads - just need compressed air.

As I suspected, the 500cfm will be more than adequate - I have seen plenty of power made with 500cfm carbs - they used to have a class in drag racing limited to this carb size and 1 hp per cubic inch was quite easy to come by.

Be interested to hear how things turn out...

deafwish · **Posted:** Sat Jan 26, 2013 7:42 pm

What's peoples thoughts on shortcutting the labor intensive cam change & trialling a different rocker duration?

deafwish · **Posted:** Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:11 am

Bit of an update (only just! :roll:

)...
Fitted a Solas Amita 4 blade 21p prop & managed to now get 53mph at 4500 RPM.
Still procrastinating as to whether to buy this cam/ lifter/ spring combo!
Not confident to fit this kit myself & can't quite justify the labour $ for a Mechanic to perform...
A 50kn + boat sure would be awesome for bragging rights around the BBQ! :lol:

deafwish · **Posted:** Fri Jan 10, 2014 10:36 pm

I recall reading that there's no room to remove the distributor (SBC) while the engine is in the boat?
How tall is a distributor, given in have fibreglass not far above the dizzy?

LouC · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2014 10:20 am

How are those one piece manifolds working out for you? I might pay the high price for em just not to have to worry about leaks in the joint in the 2 piece units. Can't get the OE OMC one piece units any more but I liked em for that reason. Might want these for my new engine, them and a closed cooling system for the block & heads...

ric · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2014 10:32 am

If it ever cools down to where it's uncomfortable to boat I want to start my cam/manifold/carb upgrade project.

LouC · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2014 11:16 am

Oh and as far as distributor removal, the older FWs had a section under the sun pad hinge mount area that you remove, so you can get at everything on the back of the engine. See it here.....

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4pl2e40z9rono ... %20015.JPG

This is my boat with the seats and wood bulkheads all removed. Why I don't like the newer designs with the non removable fiberglass in the middle of your way.

ric · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2014 12:04 pm

I put a wish list on summit racing. $1250 shipped:

Edelbrock vortec EPS intake (idle-5500rpm), chrome intake bolts, intake gaskets, distributor gasket, carb stud kit, holley marine 600cfm vacuum secondary, carb gasket, KN flame arrestor, air filter stud, air filter bolt (nice one), Chevrolet performance camshaft from the ramjet 350/ht383 crate engine (low/mid range torque cam), double roller timing chain, chrome timing chain cover with bolts and gaskets, water pump gaskets, chrome valve covers, chrome valve cover bolts, valve cover gaskets.

Only thing I'm concerned about is the linkage to the carb. Not quite sure how that's going to work out going from a Mercarb to Holley. Edit, nevermind. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-717-7/overview/

This should put that little 220hp 305 to a solid 300-320hp.

deafwish · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2014 6:09 pm

Thanks fellas.

The Hitek Headers work exeptionally well and I would buy them again.

I bought a customer of mine a sandwich for lunch, in exchange for this:

Before I go to the effort of stripping parts, do you see any issues removing my dizzy with hight issues on my 97 Horizon?

Surface Interval · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2014 6:48 pm

When you pull the distributor you will probably want to pull the spark arrestor on the carb for a bit more room. After you move the distributor cap out of the way and pull the rotor you should be able to pull the distributor. As you lift the distributor you may need to lean it forward before it comes completely out, but it looks like it should work. As always, paying attention to distributor and rotor position and maybe even marking it prior to removal may help with reinstallation if you haven't turned the crankshaft.

deafwish · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2014 7:02 pm

Brilliant, thanks SI. :wink:

Assuming my throttle linkage/ plate won't fit a 4BBL, are pre Vortec marine 4BBL throttle linkages vastly different to automotive ones?

LouC · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2014 7:45 pm

As noted if you remove the cap n rotor you should be able to get the dist out. That intake looks like its from an old OMC stringer system because I know they painted their engines that color. Good to hear the manifolds are working out well. Due to the longer life span of them that would allow me to go with a half system for the new engine.

Obie · **Posted:** Sat Jan 11, 2014 8:27 pm

How did you convert the engine to run properly in Australia? I heard that everything spins in the opposite direction down there.

www.iFourWinns.com

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