schoolsOut wrote:
LouC wrote:
Most people with boats like ours do not bother with separating loads into cranking and house loads. That (re-wiring to separate loads) allows you to use batteries better adapted to each use (cranking=highest cranking amps, deep cycle=can be drawn down but re-charged and does not become damaged by that as a cranking battery would). The use of a dual purpose battery (which is a cross between both types) allows you to get by with not having to separate loads (you would have to re-wire things to do that) and you can use a simple switch or the combiner. I like to use gp 27 dual purpose batteries because they give a bit more in terms of cranking power and ampere hours than the standard gp 24s. You can go even bigger with gp 31s, but they get pretty heavy and larger at that point. Maybe if you had a big block to crank that would make sense.
So you can use either the batt switch or the combiner, and dual purpose batteries vs the other types.
Thanks Lou. I had a feeling that separating loads would be a significant task, and one that is probably not necessary on a bowrider. I appreciate your feedback regarding battery selection. I will look to go with the gp 27's with either the combiner or a switch.
+1
Two 27's with a switch works well for my bowrider.
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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings