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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 4:06 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2014 10:46 am
Posts: 28
Jdpber wrote:
ok one feature of INDIVIDUAL zone control does not make a HU better than the other.. YOU are asking OPINIONATED questions and everyone is instilled to their opinion..

Now i will say this the lower end Fusion units are junk. you have to get into the 600 and 700 series for OK sound. it is not what a MOSFET processor will produce better cross frequency audio reproduction.. Now the fusion is not horrible and not the worst thing on the market.. BUT i repeat BUT for the same money you can get a vastly larger selection of Head hunts that out perform the Fusion on features and sound quality along with inputs and outputs.


For starters your Sony speakers are JUNK! end of story, and that sub is JUNK it was a sales ploy but he manufacture,. it sounds nice in a show room but outside you may as well un plug it..

To get things started you first need to make a budget.. If you only have $400 not a ton of improvements will be made. If you have $600-900 you can have a jam up stereo if you do the install yourself and find some sales..

Next decide how much you want to spend on the speakers and what you want.. I personally have Polk MM651 2 pairs in my boat in an amp feeding them plenty of power and they flat out blast!

Decisde on a nice sub. you do not have to got with a marine specific sub if the cone and seal are both plastic.. the foam coan and seals will dry rot in a boat. you can build a simple sealed box for your space and lay 2 layers of 9oz glass over it and it is water tight for life.In addition it will be rock hard audio reproduction with a nice sub. I would not go less than a 10" a 10"-12" is nice for a boat.. (i have a 10" in the stern and a 12" under the dash..

Ok Next you will need a 4 channel amp or a 6 channel depending on how many high/mid speakers that you choose for the vocals and instrumentals. then you need an amp dedicated to the Sub,. they do make 6ch amp designed to bridge 5/6 for the sub and this is an option but they tend to demand a decent $$ for nice stable output. BUT this is a good space saver for a boat..


just remember the quoted 50x4 watt output that the head units claim never stand up to 50 watts from a dedicated amp. the polks desire more than 50 to make them truly shine. I will let you do the specs on the speakers but you need to match the amps to the RMS of the speakers for optimal output..

If you do this I am sure you will not be disappointed when on the hook or under power cruising.


ASK AWAY WE WILL HELP.


also members lets remember this is not meant to be an argument over individuals opinions.. and everyone thinks that their best speakers are the best until they hear something better. i mean i listen to studio monitors at the office in a sound stable old recording booth.. (out office used to be the radio station) and i feel that i have a very good ear being in the car audio and home audio area for many years..

BUT again everyones ears are different and preferences are diff..


I will say this for the cost of the 600 and 700 fusion you can get a HU with remote for the transom for the same money.


Wow guys, coming back to this after some time has yielded some interesting reading to say the least. Anyway as an update, I finished up the boating season with just my upgraded JL M700/5 amp and no other modifications. I really want to run (4) Polk MM651UM's and (1) Polk MM1040. The problem I see here is that at 4 ohms my amp is going to be underpowered by a fair amount. Is that ok, or will I end up frying my amp? Is there a nice head unit (I don't need 5 zones nor do I want to control it from the watch I don't wear) that will help in this equation? I am also now toying with the idea of adding a tower and 2 speakers up there, if I do that will I have to add a 2nd amp? My budget will be around $1,000 and I can do some of the work myself. Thoughts? I've searched all day for example setups similar to what I have/want to do and found very little.


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