Much Happier!

deafwish · **Posted:** Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:08 pm

Great info on this thread, thanks fellas.
From past experience racing Subaru's, Hypereutectic pistons are a marketing spin on what is barely an improvement from OEM cast pistons.

kd4pbs · **Joined:** Thu Sep 05, 2013 10:34 am **Posts:** 350

LOL. Allrighty then. :roll:

deafwish · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2014 5:35 am

Can I use automotive distributor and thermostat housing gaskets or should I buy Volvo items?

ric · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2014 7:22 am

deafwish wrote:

Can I use automotive distributor and thermostat housing gaskets or should I buy Volvo items?

gasket is a gasket as long as it fits

kd4pbs · **Joined:** Thu Sep 05, 2013 10:34 am **Posts:** 350

It depends on the gasket. You always want to use a marine gasket for the heads, but the thermostat and distributor gaskets are run-of-the-mill.

schoolsOut · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2014 6:18 pm

deafwish wrote:

Can I use automotive distributor and thermostat housing gaskets or should I buy Volvo items?

I actually use some sort of automotive form-a-gasket stuff that my dad has at his shop. Works like a charm for thermostat housing.

deafwish · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2014 10:28 pm

Thanks fellas. :wink:

rpengr · **Posted:** Thu Feb 06, 2014 4:01 pm

schoolsOut wrote:

deafwish wrote:

Can I use automotive distributor and thermostat housing gaskets or should I buy Volvo items?

I actually use some sort of automotive form-a-gasket stuff that my dad has at his shop. Works like a charm for thermostat housing.

I use an automotive gasket, and coat both sides with Aviation-Form-a-Gasket from permatex.

deafwish · **Posted:** Fri Aug 15, 2014 7:15 pm

I'm back on to this cam upgrade project & am seriously contemplating buying a Crow Cams 'Ski 1666' cam, lifter & spring combo, next week.
Part # 1666:
http://www.crowcams.com.au/Portals/0/Ca ... ock-V8.pdf

I have a Chev specialist workshop friend that has offered to install it for a fair price.
There's great access to remove the cam, but I'm reading that the oil pan needs to be removed to replace the seal where it meets the timing cover...
As most know, that's an engine out job in a bowrider!

If this is the case, I'll abort the project.
Any advice, please?

rpengr · **Posted:** Sat Aug 16, 2014 11:22 am

I don't know if you must remove the engine, but I wouldn't let that stop you. I had the engine out 3 times on my 1987 chapparal. It's not as bad as you would think. First time was witha forklift with extended fork and a chain. Next 2 times I had access to an overhead crane.
With overhead crane, me and a helper could remove in 1.5 hours and install in 2.5 hours.

deafwish · **Posted:** Sat Aug 16, 2014 7:26 pm

My Chevy performance specialist friend is not a marine mechanic and I'm thinking the labor rate for him to remove the engine would be a killer!

deafwish · **Posted:** Sun Mar 15, 2015 1:49 am

So the 4BBL intake manifold and 600cfm Holley square bore carb' are now happening.
After researching spread bore - square bore, the square offers better drivability and adjustability for my setup.

Did some porting work on the manifold so it'll flow better with the square bore and adapter.
Question: If I remove the hoses from the circulating pump, will this drain the water from the heads & intake manifold?

TX H210SS · **Joined:** Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am **Posts:** 1488

Best way is to just pull drain plugs on block and manifolds. I believe the thermostat would block the water from draining if you only pulled hoses at pump. I wish it would work that way though, cuz that would make winterizing easier.

deafwish · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2015 2:03 am

Thanks mate.
The boat was imported from near Lake Mead and I suspect the block drains have never been removed.
I'm terrified I'll crack the block when trying to remove them! :shock:

LouC · **Posted:** Mon Mar 16, 2015 5:36 am

They should come out because they are not steel but should be brass and therefore will not corrode.
When I winterze I coat the threads with OMC gasket sealer, they always come out even after 6 months in salt water.
To change the manifold I think removing the lower end of the big hose from the thermo housing to the water pump on the front of the engine may drain enough water to get that job done, but to be on the safe side drain the block too.

www.iFourWinns.com

Much Happier!

Who is online