Fixing the leaky transom -1994 H180

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Yes. The transom cut out has been sealed with resin. I will do the thru holes after I drill them.

LouC · **Posted:** Fri Oct 30, 2015 7:04 pm

Yours will be better that new because you will do all the little things that the factory is too lazy or cheap to do.

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

So I drilled by 1/4" pilot holes for the transom thru bolts. I made a fixture at work so that I was sure I was drilling them on center to the existing holes and perpendicular to the outside surface. I have to update my fixture to finish drilling the holes out to the 9/16" final size.

After I drilled all the holes I noticed that one in the center is definitely going to break out after I drill it for the final size. Seems like when the fiberglass guy cut the hole we didn't keep it nice and square to the outside. The question is how concerned should I be? If it is only this hole breaking thru so I be OK? I have to think there are no good easy fixes for this...

I am sure my hole is in the correct location.

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Drilled the 9/16" holes...dry fitted the transom mount and it slides in nice and easily. Here is that one hole that broke through. I think I will be fine since the other 5 are fine and really the middle two holes are mainly there to keep the transom flat against the boats surface.

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Manifolds re-mounted...new risers mounted. Had to use two of the old rise bolts since the new ones in the kit were not long enough to secure the bracket on this side of the engine.

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

The cold finally won out...we will have to put the engine back in the spring. I had a door put in the cover this year so I could finish up a few items if we get some nicer days this fall and in the spring.

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Spring has come to CT (with a snow storm thrown in) so it is time to but the boat back together. I have been finishing the last painting of parts that needed it and getting thing reassembled. One thing I didn't take enough photos of during removal (apparently) was the setup for the blower. I did a sketch below to explain my question.

I have 1 blower, 2 short ducts and one long duct. My boat has 4 round openings (2 per side) that lead to the louvers out back. There are no louvers for "in" air. I think that my blower was attached to the port side hole and the "in" air was also on the port side...right next to it. I don't really love that setup since it seems like the fumes could just come back right into the boat since both ducts meet at the same place. I think it would be more effective to have the "in" duct come in from the starboard side. Or does it not matter?

This sketch is pretty poor :shock:

...i swear I am an engineer whenever not on the boat.

rpengr · **Posted:** Wed Apr 13, 2016 2:15 pm

tymorrissette wrote:

I have 1 blower, 2 short ducts and one long duct. My boat has 4 round openings (2 per side) that lead to the louvers out back. There are no louvers for "in" air. I think that my blower was attached to the port side hole and the "in" air was also on the port side...right next to it. I don't really love that setup since it seems like the fumes could just come back right into the boat since both ducts meet at the same place. I think it would be more effective to have the "in" duct come in from the starboard side. Or does it not matter?

I don't think it matters. The air coming out has a pretty high velocity, and is directed back away from the boat with the louvers. Because of the velocity, I think it would have very little tendency to turn around and come back in.

The important thing is that the blower intake hose suck from near the lowest point in the bilge (because gas fumes are heavier than air).

LouC · **Posted:** Wed Apr 13, 2016 7:04 pm

When you have the vents all on the transom you can't really set it up so one hose exhausts bilge air and the other pulls in fresh air unless you installed some kind of scoop to push air in on the side opposite from the blower.
On my boat the vents are on the sides of the hull, with directional vents. The side that exhausts the bilge air has the vents facing aft; on the other side they face forward and there is a hose bringing fresh air in, while the blower on the other side is sucking it out. This is how it's shown in Chapman's.

It's probably fine the way you had it; I do see a lot of modern boats with all the vents on the transom.

LouC · **Posted:** Fri Apr 15, 2016 1:21 pm

Here's a pic of what I was trying to explain...I think this is the way inboards should be set up because with directional vents, you'd have stronger natural air flow even with the blower off.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/iqxy5exthh185 ... pman's.jpg

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

The kids were gone this weekend so I got a lot of work done on the boat. She would almost float now! I don't have a pic but i also installed the U-pipe and power steering. Next I have to attach all the hooks to clean up the wiring, mount the gimble housing and steering arm then cleanup the bilge before I put the gas fill and vent lines back in.

I should be able to get the engine back in the boat in about 2-3 weeks!!!

I did have a question. Does anyone know how to "hot wire" the trim pump so I can activate it without having the engine and everything plugged back in? I would rather purge the trim lines before I put the engine back in just because of the space constraints.

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

Reinstalled the gimbal ring into the gimbal housing today. I used the same thrust washers that I removed previously. After tightening everything down I still have about 050" of vertical play. Does this sound normal or do I need to add more thrust washers? I don't recall if it was like this when I took it apart.

Engine dropping day is coming soon!

tymorrissette · **Joined:** Tue May 31, 2011 10:03 am **Posts:** 225

tymorrissette wrote:

Reinstalled the gimbal ring into the gimbal housing today. I used the same thrust washers that I removed previously. After tightening everything down I still have about 050" of vertical play. Does this sound normal or do I need to add more thrust washers? I don't recall if it was like this when I took it apart.

Engine dropping day is coming soon!

No feedback on the backlash question? Can someone go shake their gimbal ring for me?

LouC · **Posted:** Wed Apr 27, 2016 9:42 am

you mean .050? lol wouldn't it have been easier if we all switched to metric all those years ago?
I have the OMC Cobra, which is similar to the model you have. I'd say I have maybe a tiny bit of play up and down, but some of that is in the bushings in the drive where the trim ram rod passes thru. I'm guessing total less than 1/8, closer to 1/16th"

.050"=1/20th" right? pretty close to 1/16th"
My drive is still off, I'll see if I can feel how much there is today when I work on it again. Doing the bellows and anti fouling painting.

OK went out and checked it with the drive off. Up and down play of the gimble ring, is barely perceptible, too little to measure, kind of like a properly adjusted trailer wheel bearing.
Side to side, measured at the end of the trim ram, is about 1/16th", that appears to be in the steering system and its always been like that.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Wed Apr 27, 2016 11:00 am

metric for the win

www.iFourWinns.com

Fixing the leaky transom -1994 H180

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