I'd like to see it
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| wintering the H180 https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10318 |
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| Author: | tymorrissette [ Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | wintering the H180 |
So I finally got my Seloc repair manual for the 1994 5.0L carb engine. When I reviewed what it said for yearly winterization...it said nothing about changing the raw water pump impeller or inspecting it. What does everyone use for straight SAE 30? I have read some peoplwe use Rotella brand...some other brands. Better or worse? What grease does everyone use for the gimbal bearings? THey are suggesting OMC EP Wheel Bearing Grease. Is that just regular lithium grease? |
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| Author: | ron3033 [ Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: wintering the H180 |
I have a 1995 horizon and I have put one in it so far. To winterize undo the 3 screws on the seawater pump and look at it if pieces or cracks in the rubber, time to get a new one. by pulling this off you know it is empty... bit of antifreeze in the engine and into the seawater pump..this way it is slippery in the spring and will prime okay. DO NOT overtighten the three screws, they are brass and break easily. Able to take a cordless drill and get the one i broke to reverse out. When I put antifreeze in the engine make sure you see some come out of the 2 brass drains on the side of the block and drain your pivot housing too. I tend to drain my boat and let it sit a day or two and take it for a ride aroud the block to shake any remaining water out of it, then add antifreeze. it just goes to the low spots to be sure. |
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| Author: | LouC [ Wed Sep 12, 2012 5:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: wintering the H180 |
If you want to replace the impeller for the next season I usually just wait till spring to do that, so it does not sit the same way for the 5 months or so of winter storage. Some people take the old one out and let it straighten out and then reuse it which you can do and if there is no wear and no cracks in the rubber it may be OK. Oil, I like to use an HD oil rated for both gas and diesel use like Chevron Delo 400 or Shell Rotella T. I've used the Chevron for years. You can also use the Mercruiser sterndrive oil which is made for marine use and is 25/40. It's a bit more than the Chevron or Rotella though. Winterizing, I hope no one is taking a big chance by using those silly winterizing tanks on a raw water cooled engine. They can cause a cracked block because on a cool fall day the thermostat may not open enough to let all the raw water out of the engine. Drain it manually and probe all openings to make sure it really drained. Then you can replace the plugs and back fill with antifreeze if you want to use it for corrosion protection. Those winterizing tanks can work on a closed cooled motor since the engine has antifreeze in it already and its only going to fill the raw water pump and heat exchanger (and manifolds if its a full closed system).... For the gimble and the u-joints I use Pennzoil Marine wheel bearing grease. I pull off the drive and do them every fall and also check for water in the bellows and also to make sure the input shaft seal is not leaking. When you drain the oil in the drive look for signs of moisture (milky oil). |
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| Author: | Paul I. [ Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: wintering the H180 |
LouC wrote: If you want to replace the impeller for the next season I usually just wait till spring to do that, so it does not sit the same way for the 5 months or so of winter storage. Some people take the old one out and let it straighten out and then reuse it which you can do and if there is no wear and no cracks in the rubber it may be OK. Oil, I like to use an HD oil rated for both gas and diesel use like Chevron Delo 400 or Shell Rotella T. I've used the Chevron for years. You can also use the Mercruiser sterndrive oil which is made for marine use and is 25/40. It's a bit more than the Chevron or Rotella though. Winterizing, I hope no one is taking a big chance by using those silly winterizing tanks on a raw water cooled engine. They can cause a cracked block because on a cool fall day the thermostat may not open enough to let all the raw water out of the engine. Drain it manually and probe all openings to make sure it really drained. Then you can replace the plugs and back fill with antifreeze if you want to use it for corrosion protection. Those winterizing tanks can work on a closed cooled motor since the engine has antifreeze in it already and its only going to fill the raw water pump and heat exchanger (and manifolds if its a full closed system).... For the gimble and the u-joints I use Pennzoil Marine wheel bearing grease. I pull off the drive and do them every fall and also check for water in the bellows and also to make sure the input shaft seal is not leaking. When you drain the oil in the drive look for signs of moisture (milky oil). Great advice!! |
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| Author: | LouC [ Thu Sep 13, 2012 3:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: wintering the H180 |
Normally I don't like to discuss the W word now since its a beautiful day and 82*F here in Long Island, but if any of you would like me to type out what I have done every year, I'd be happy to do so, takes me about 3 hrs to do the whole thing right, but then it's done, the drive is off, etc. The get it ready process in the spring takes about the same time. |
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| Author: | jontmiller [ Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: wintering the H180 |
I'd like to see it
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| Author: | rpengr [ Fri Sep 14, 2012 2:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: wintering the H180 |
jontmiller wrote: I'd like to see it +1 |
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