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Depth Sounder Question - 210 Horizon
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Author:  trhardy1 [ Tue Jun 13, 2006 8:31 am ]
Post subject:  Depth Sounder Question - 210 Horizon

Does anyone know if you can (and how to do it) have the depth sounder on while the key is in the ACC position? For example, while out lounging on the lake, we like to listen to the radio, but I also like to know the depth in case someone wants to jump in. It is a pain to turn the key to the 'on' position, have the annoying start-up chime scare half the lake, and wait for the sounder to register. Then turn it back, and have to wait again for the radio (mine came with Sirius) locate the channel again.

Thanks!
Tom

Author:  Dan_FW180 [ Tue Jun 13, 2006 8:48 am ]
Post subject: 

I dont know, but I have a 2006 Horizon 180 that I am assuming has the same depth sounder and ignision switch as yours and I would LOVE for the depth sounder to come on with the ACC. If anyone knows a way I am interested as well.

Dan

Author:  ifourwinns [ Tue Jun 13, 2006 8:53 am ]
Post subject: 

I have the exact same request for the same reason....my previous Glastron did it, and i truly miss that. I will prob ask my dealer to wire it up for me when i go in for the 20 hr service.

Author:  230 Mike [ Tue Jun 13, 2006 12:16 pm ]
Post subject: 

This is an interesting question, that I'd like to know about as well. However, I had two initial thoughts:

1. I don't know how much current these sounders draw, but it might be more than we think;

2. If the water is shallow enough to be concerned about the depth, I'd be hesitant to rely on the sounder's limited cone of coverage to tell me whether it's safe to jump/dive in, i.e., it might be 15' deep under the transducer but there could be a submerged tree under the transom or platform. I know everyone already knows this, but I just felt compelled to say it. I personally knew a man who jumped into a swimming pool one night and spent the rest of his life partially paralized so this is one of my pet fears. In fact I was thinking just a few days ago that I'm going to institute a new policy on our boat - no diving, and the first person in the water has to ease in (not even jump) to make sure there's nothing down there, at least for the first 5 feet or so.

Author:  trhardy1 [ Tue Jun 13, 2006 4:45 pm ]
Post subject: 

That is a good point Mike about jumping into the murky depths, but I also see an advantage when just drifting. Part of the reason is that I do not know the lake and sloughs very well, so I am constantly mapping out the depths.

Anyway - your other point about it drawing more amps could also be a concern.

Author:  Vista - Al [ Tue Jun 13, 2006 7:24 pm ]
Post subject: 

This is a great use for one of those spare 'accessory' switch holes FW thoughtfully put in the dash.

You can simply hook up a 'bypass' switch so that you can turn on the depth-finder independantly of the ignition switch. Also, you could use a spring-loaded type of switch, so it would only be momentary contact - that way, you would only read the depth-finder when the switch is depressed.

The square hole is a standard holesize for several different switches. I buy many of my switches from http://www.mouser.com Let me know if you need help in spec'ing out the right switch.

Image

This arrangement requires a single-pole/double-throw switch. You also want one that does not have a 'center-off'. A center-off switch would have three positions, (UP, CENTER, DN), while you only want two positions (UP, DN).

In the 'normal' position, the depth finder is connected to the ignition switch normally, and when the ignition is off, the depth finder is off, so this position could be labelled "normal/Off".

In the other position, whether momentary or not, the depth finder only will be on.

The reason for the double-throw is that you don't want the switch turning on other devices in the ignition circuit when you read the depth-finder. In other words, you are switching the depth finder between its normal ignition circuit and a dedicated power source.

This is just one possible solution.

Author:  out4fun [ Wed Jun 14, 2006 6:34 am ]
Post subject: 

Great post Vista-Al. It seems that the single pole rocker switches that come standard with the boat would work as well. Although most of the switches are alternate action, the engine hatch switch on my boat is momentary, so I know they make them. Does anyone know the switch manufacturer or where they can be purchased?

Author:  trhardy1 [ Wed Jun 14, 2006 10:46 am ]
Post subject: 

Thanks Al! I will let all know how the mod goes....

Author:  njlarry609 [ Wed Jun 14, 2006 1:30 pm ]
Post subject: 

Mike makes a good point about the first swimmer easing in to unknown waters.

Author:  Vista - Al [ Wed Jun 14, 2006 2:51 pm ]
Post subject: 

You want a CarlingSwitch Contura III type switch. I did a quick check and found some momentary on switches, but only SPST. I'd have to do some looking to find a SPDT momentary.

Author:  Vista - Al [ Wed Jun 14, 2006 3:09 pm ]
Post subject: 

Found a couple:

First one is a DPST non-momentary, with a black paddle (113222):

http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=113221F

Next is a DPST momentary, with a grey paddle (96148):

http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=96137F

By the way, the bodies and paddles are interchangeable - the paddles pop off.

So if you want the SPTD momentary but do not like the grey paddle, you can pop off a black paddle from another switch;

Or, you can buy just the paddle from http://www.mouser.com (691-VCCMC). Part 691-VRT is a paddle removal tool.

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/626/1248.pdf

Or you can google for a Blue Sea 8288, which is a DPST momentary with black paddle.


http://www.bluesea.com/product.asp?Product_Id=25907&d_Id=7489&l1=7459&l2=7489#

Author:  Vista - Al [ Wed Jun 14, 2006 3:14 pm ]
Post subject: 

Look like BrokenLegDave has the BlueSea 8288, but not in stock, but can be ordered with a 1~3 week delivery.

http://www.brokenlegdave.com/Manufacture/Blue_sea/8000.htm

Author:  230 Mike [ Wed Jun 14, 2006 5:07 pm ]
Post subject: 

Great information, Al!

Hmmm, my boat came with a switch for the windshield wiper option, even though we don't have the wiper. I wonder if I could just use that switch and put a blank black paddle on it. I can't imagine what it's wired into...

Also, it looks like the ConturaIII switches are incandescent. Al, are you sure the current switches aren't LED? At a glance mine have an "LED look" to them, but maybe that's just because of the lenses.

Author:  Vista - Al [ Wed Jun 14, 2006 6:04 pm ]
Post subject: 

The Contura switches are available with incadescant lights, with different color lenses in the paddle, or different color LEDs, Neon lamps, or with no lighting at all. Some paddles can be ordered with icons or lettering as well. You can get, among others, Contura II, which have those bumps on the paddle, Contura III, which have the smooth surface, and either a hard plastic or rubber-like surface.

There are literally thousands of different combinations of paddles, incadescant, or LED lighting options available. Unfortunately, I know of no source that provides the full range of switch options.

Note, the Contura spec sheet below is about 1Mb in size.

http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/CarlingSW_V2_3.pdf

Author:  230 Mike [ Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:36 pm ]
Post subject: 

I found that same PDF and downloaded a copy right after my last post. I just got back from the boat and discovered that I've got Contura V paddles. From the PDF it sounds like the switches are the same, just different paddles. The tool to remove them is the same for Contura II through V.

I've got switches for both the windshield wiper and through-hull exhaust, but don't have those options. If I wanted to make this mod and use one of those switches, would it be safe to disconnect the existing wires from it and just let them hang? I noticed a few other wires back there that are just zip-tied off, unconnected to anything. Odd, since the wiper and through-hull are about the only two options I don't have - not sure what those other unused wires are for.

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