Questions on the plug

Azboatguy · **Posted:** Tue Nov 06, 2012 7:17 pm

I have a 94' 230 Horizon. I inserted the plug and tightened it the best I could, but it doesn't go in all the way, the plug still shows a few more lines of threading. Just wanna know if that's ok or not. It's as tight as I can get it and nothings cross threaded. Just wanted the seasoned boaters opinions. Thanks again.

Wylie_Tunes · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:21 am **Posts:** 176

Its pipe thread, which are tapered.

taz42169 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 06, 2012 7:35 pm

Very rare to get a plug flush...if you do, it'll most likely NEVER come out.

ric · **Posted:** Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:03 pm

Only needs to be finger tight with maybe 1/4 turn with wrench.

Paul I. · **Posted:** Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:47 pm

ric wrote:

Only needs to be finger tight with maybe 1/4 turn with wrench.

Yes!! I'll say a 1/3rd of a turn.

Darin · **Joined:** Sat Sep 15, 2012 1:58 pm **Posts:** 12

Here a question. Will a bilge pump keep up, or almost keep up with a missing plug? If you lose a plug in the middle of the lake, will running the boat on plane keep water from coming in?

ric · **Posted:** Wed Nov 07, 2012 10:06 am

Darin wrote:

Here a question. Will a bilge pump keep up, or almost keep up with a missing plug? If you lose a plug in the middle of the lake, will running the boat on plane keep water from coming in?

Well, under power a missing plug actually acts as a siphon. It's the fastest way to get water out of a boat. That's why smaller boats like john boats have the plug inside. If the boat gets full of water, power up on plane and pull the plug. Sucks right out. Now if the boat is standing still without a plug, it will take at least a 1100gph bilge pump to keep up dry. Most smaller boats only have a 500gph, but that will keep a boat afloat for a good 2-6 hours.

Capt. Hoss · **Posted:** Wed Nov 07, 2012 12:50 pm

I know I dont want to find out the limits of my pump, so I go through my check list to make sure the plug is where it needs to be, when it is supposed to be.

kneel · **Posted:** Wed Nov 07, 2012 7:24 pm

A quick google search.. based on a 3/4" diameter plug, flow rate is:
660 gph low pressure <20 psi
1,410 gph mid pressure 20-100 psi
2,160 gph high 100+psi

A 500 gph pump would definitely keep you a float for quite some time.

PDACPA · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2013 1:11 pm

Old thread, but a few comments.

1. You can change the 500 bilge to an 800 as they have the same size output hose. To get the 1100, the diameter changes.

2. The bilge will be pumping away (could hint that you forgot the plug) and the ski locker will be filling with water as well as the engine compartment, but based on the designs of our engines, your starter is going to get soaked. And if you are in salt water, you are going to need to get a new starter (the old one can get rebuilt too).

Paul I. · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2013 3:38 pm

kneel wrote:

A quick google search.. based on a 3/4" diameter plug, flow rate is:
660 gph low pressure <20 psi
1,410 gph mid pressure 20-100 psi
2,160 gph high 100+psi

A 500 gph pump would definitely keep you a float for quite some time.

On A. == I would not count on it! What most boater don't realize, is that pump is rated at zero feet. Now put a hose on it, the longer the more the GPH will drop. That is now going to a thru hall fitting that is about 2 feet higher than the pump. Again your GPH will drop on that note. So that 500 GPH is only outputing about 425 give or take a little GPH.

The smaller the boat, the faster the engine compartment will flood. A 2nd pump, hose & fitting is CHEAP ins.

Surface Interval · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2013 9:55 pm

As previously stated, the threaded plug is usually a tapered 3/8 NPT (National Pipe Thread). Just go finger tight and then snug a little with a wrench, but don't over do it. The tighter you go with a tapered thread the harder it will turn. At some point you may not be able to remove it without causing damage. In other high pressure plumbing applications the plug will need to be tighter, but not for a drain plug. I would also recommend using some pipe thread sealant or teflon tape to prevent seizing and help sealing. As far as emptying the boat by getting on plane, by the time the average boater realizes that his cruiser or runabout's plug is not installed the boat will probably have too much water weight to even get on plane. The old "forgotten drain plug" syndrome is especially bothersome for boaters in states like Minnesota that have laws requiring plug removal while trailering on the state's roads.

I will recommend that all boaters look in the engine room and other compartments and check equipment now and then. Once on my 190 Horizon I noticed a bilge pump that was no longer connected to the hose because of a broken plastic bilge pump port. That would have been disappointing if I needed it.

LouC · **Posted:** Sat Feb 02, 2013 2:45 am

I usually coat the plug threads with OMC triple guard grease, that is a very good grease that will prevent corrosion and seizing in salt water. I leave the boat in salt water on a mooring for 6 months out of the year and I have never had trouble getting the plug out.

EvilZ · **Posted:** Sat Feb 02, 2013 9:15 am

Surface Interval wrote:

That would have been disappointing if I needed it.

I'll say....

That understatement got a good chuckle out of me this morning!

FrenzyLenz · **Posted:** Sat Feb 02, 2013 11:13 am

To answer the original question, I think that my plug only makes about 2 complete turns before becoming hand-tight. Since we trailer our boat, I don't even use a wrench to tighten further. Once plug is hand-tight, I launch the boat and keep it in the lake for 4-5 hours.

Once I remove the plug, rarely do I ever get more than 2-3 cups of water from the bilge.

If I were to leave the boat in the water for more than just the afternoon, perhaps I would add an extra 1/4 turn with a wrench, but I've never had a problem with too much water in the bilge with a hand-tight drain plug.

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