www.iFourWinns.com

Hi All,

I recently purchased a used Four Winns 2006 Horizon 260 and there's lots of work to do on the boat. I was hoping someone might have a quick answer regarding the steering wheel. My steering wheel looks like a Uflex Spargi steering wheel with a four winns logo in the middle. The leather is all beat to hell and the logo is pitted. I was told I don't have to buy the official "four winns" factory item but could use an after market wheel.

I like the Uflex Spargi wheels but I'm concerned about 2 things:

1. The size (is it a standard 3/4" tapered fitting)?

2. The cover that is currently pitted, is that something that should come with the wheel?

Here is a link to what I was thinking about replacing the stock wheel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/UFLEX-SPARGI-RED-BOAT-STEERING-WHEEL-WITH-BLACK-LEATHER-GRIP-/130660368533?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item1e6bf70095&vxp=mtr

I already have a steering wheel puller that I can borrow.

Any help that I can get is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
-mark

It might have some adapters on the shaft, but under it all it should be a standard universal 3/4 taper shaft.

I really like the Dino and Grant wheels on boats. Not too expensive but really nice and modern.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

I used a Schmidt Destroyer style wheel with the spinner knob on mine, makes docking easier....and the stainless holds up much better in the salt air...

When I changed mine I did not use a puller, I just loosened the nut, then unscrewed it almost all the way and got a hammer and a block of wood. I put the wood on the nut (to protect it) and gave it one rap from the hammer to break the grip of the taper fit. Look for a woodruff key, it will drop out of the slot in the shaft, you need to re-install that when replacing the wheel. I used some marine grease to hold it in place and also on the taper shaft if I ever have to remove it again it will come right off. I was surprised at how easily it came off though (boat was 22 years old then).


http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product ... rchID=4006

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Some of the FW boats have standard tapered/ woodruff key steering shafts, some have splined shafts. When the wheel is removeable from the hub, the 6 bolts have the same spacing/ PCD whether it's a tapered or splined hub. So you can usually bolt an aftermarket one to the standard hub that's on the boat already if the new wheel doesn't come with the right type of hub. One exception I know of is the "Victor" steering wheels; they use a 5 bolt mounting ( but the holes are still the same radius from the centre, so even that is "do-able")

Thanks everyone for the quick replies.

I'm planning on ordering a UFlex Linosa steering wheel from a place called BoatOwnersWorld.com - it comes with a hub as well.

I appreciate the tips and I'll post back with a before and after.

I've only got a few more things to do before the boat is up to snuff at least mechanically, it's pretty perfect condition. Everything that was off was cosmetic.

Thanks again!

Nice wheel!

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

Thanks! It's a $179 (hub/centerpiece included) @ BoatOwnersWorld.com - I found them on eBay and seem to be respectable. I'll let you know how I make out.

A good looking wheel really dresses up a boat. If you have round gauges swapping them out for newer/modern ones also makes a biiiig cosmetic difference. If you check out my link "ricks mods" I tore the dash out of my 2000 H180 and totally redid it.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

I hope so. I traded for this boat (my previous boat was a 2000' Cruisers Yachts 3575 Esprit) and got some cash with the deal. I want to make it better than if I had traded in my boat to the Sea Ray dealer for a new 2012 Sundeck 280 and the 40K+ he wanted to go with it !

Here is the before picture:

I looked over your mods and the boat you tricked out sounded pretty awesome. One thing you did that I'm planning on doing is changing the lighting around the boat. I wanted to put in the new LED lighting where I can change the colors. The stock fixtures look a little cheesy and I'm thinking that they should be an easy swap out - any thoughts?

Thanks again!
-m

Thanks Lou. The new wheel is on it's way. I was originally leaning toward the full stainless but since the boat is indoor rack stored now (and I'm way more anal about cleaning than the previous owner) I should be able to keep up with it.

I'm hoping I get the same response with getting the wheel off that you did though.

Thanks again for the advice.

Thanks Graham I will keep this in mind. I've ordered the wheel and I should have it in a couple of days. I'll post up the after shot when it's done. I think it's going to make the boat look a couple of grand better. You can see from the original one it just makes it look a bit ratty at best.

The original wheel looks like the "leather" bits are PU integral skin foam, with an in mould coating; basically the tool is sprayed with a paint; 1 component , cheap, poor durability, or 2 component, marginally more expensive but far more durable, then the polyurethane is injected in behind it. A real leather, or even a flexible PVC foil wrap one wil last a lot longer than the IMC; that basicaly wears away, revealing the (usually black !) PU.


The original wheel is nice; I'd consider geting quotes from classic car restorers to get it leather wrapped where the PU is; you might be surprised how cheap that will be ! I recently got a Ford RS one , admittedly all black, done for £40 ( about USD60!)

I got the same, but in sliver. I did use a gear puller and I would. You don't want to break anything and its too easy not to use.