www.iFourWinns.com

So I am sick of trying to sell the boat so instead I am keeping her despite having a baby in December, so we will see how much use she gets. So I have a short list of things to do to have her top notch asthetically and mechanically:

Gel-coat on keel + Keel guard = getting done as we speak, should be worth it whether I sell or keep since this boat goes straight from the dock to the beach and back.
Repair screw holes where one side of the engine hatch attached to the fiberglass - board in the hatch broke and the screws pulled out - in progress, then replacing the board itself, it will be able to hold weight again and I wont be worried about it flying off while pulling down the road.
Tune Up - Plugs, Cables, Cap, and Rotor, dang its more expensive for a boat than a car (I know, Bust Out Another Thousand)
The engine will not come up to running temperature. Last year it was running hot which ended up being blockage in the fresh water pump which took several trips to the shop to get completely cleared. I think they may have forgotten to re install the thermostat because the gauge doesn't read over 125ish.
Impeller is a genuine Volvo part changed middle of last year so I'm leaving it for this season, engine oil and filter, and lower end oil was changed during winterization so I think I'll be good this season.
I'm also running about 400 RPM's over max so I'm going to change the prop to fix that.

Y'all think Im correct with my assumption of the thermostat? I'm ready to have a good problem free season this year so wanting to get it right the first time.

The thermostat is not closing... either because it is stuck open, or because it is not there. Either way, a new thermostat will fix the problem.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

If the engine does not come up to temp (most OE Volvo thermostats are 160*) a common cause is a bit of rust causing the thermostat to stick slightly open. Sometimes a bit of worn impeller vane can do the same thing. In any case the cure is to remove the thermostat housing, dig out the rubber retaining ring and inspect the thermostat. I have had this problem on and off with a salt water cooled engine. My next engine will be closed cooled for sure.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks guys, I think I have decided to just go ahead and replace the t-stat, housing, and gaskets as well as the impeller just in case. Better chance that way of not having to follow each lake trip with a shop trip like last year. Getting excited, but hope these dang droughts go away so I'll have lakes to put the boat in in the first place!!

I really wish I had google searched the Keel Shields before getting it installed, because geez that thing is UGLY!!! But I guess it serves a good purpose so well see if I can live with the eyesore!!

Well, the new t stat worked, gets up to temp and stays there, right at 175! Now after I fix my erratic Tach and randomly functional trim gauge I'll start with the aesthetic improvements and be able to post some pics! The first time the boat has ran this good yet and I am excited!

Nice, I usually have to change my thermostats about every 2 seasons or so. You should see temps ranging from 160-175, not more than 185. If so time to start looking for cooling restrictions or impeller issues. I just had to split the upper and lower gear housings to clean out barnacles form the water intake area.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Barnacles? Geez, glad I dont have to deal with that...I'm glad you mentioned the thermostat, I knew the impeller should be changed every year or two, but didn't think about changing the t stat that often, another thing I'll have to learn to do myself to cut down on the probably rising costs to maintain a 12 year old boat! I went through the seats and interior with a combination of oxygen powered upholstery cleaner and simple green yesterday so now what I'm looking at doing next includes:

Buff and polish exterior fiberglass.
Somehow pull off the helm dash to refinish it (looks terrible)
Light windshield tint to protect phone when it is in the holder next to the steering wheel
Small 6 Channel amp (50w x 6 or so) so I can add 2 speakers in the bow and replace the other four, I want at least 2 6x9's maybe four, just not sure how I'll situate them yet.
Second battery
Install radio antennae (already have it, just going to mount it now that I have decided to keep the boat for a few years.

Hopefully that should be all, probably won't even do more than the aesthetics and antennae this year, but we'll see how the economy does this summer, and who knows.

Anywho, here is a funny picture from the lake last year...

Nice pic, looks like a fun day!
If you are looking at things, then on a 12 year old boat, take a look a the driveshaft bellows, if its original it might need to be changed, they can last a long time but when they leak it will cost you. As in a new gimble bearing, maybe new u-joints, etc. I find that the Cobra impellers last at least 3 seasons if not more. The thermostats don't actually fail, its rust flakes usually from a raw water cooled engine that keep them from closing. Sometimes if you put it in a pot of water and heat it so it opens, the rust flake will fall out and then it may work normally. If you have a Volvo powered boat changing the 'stat is very easy, its held in a rubber ring inside the thermo housing. Same design that OMC used, actually the same housing in some years (they did a joint venture some years back and Volvo kept using some of the OMC sourced parts like that and the exhaust manifolds).

In salt water we see things you will never see in fresh, unless you have zebra mussels and other similar nasties. I had to remove the screen that OMC put in the water intake of the Cobra because barnacles kept growing in there. I split the upper and lower drive and there were enough in the area right under the water passage cover that it cut down on the volume of water. Not enough to overheat, but enough that it ran hotter than it did when I first had the drive gone through (2005). So I probably have to do that every 3 seasons or so.

Keep in mind that fresh water rots wood much quicker than salt. Salt water corrodes metals but it does not rot the wood structure of the transom the way freshwater does. Older boats are primarily wood in the structure under the fiberglass.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Well they removed and realigned my outdrive as part of winterization last october so I think I assumed they inspected those in the process, but I'll call and have them inspect the drive shaft bellows, gimble bearing, u-joints, and everything else involved with that system. Which bellow is it that has all the little holes along the bottom that goes between the transom and outdrive?

Well they removed and realigned my outdrive as part of winterization last october so I think I assumed they inspected those in the process, but I'll call and have them inspect the drive shaft bellows, gimble bearing, u-joints, and everything else involved with that system. Which bellow is it that has all the little holes along the bottom that goes between the transom and outdrive?[/quote]



The one with the holes is your exhaust bellows.

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'96 200 Horizon 5.8l VP/SX

Yep the bottom one is the exhaust bellows, the one above that is the real important one for the driveshaft. If you tilt up the drive, look in the folds with a bright LED flashlight, for cracks in the rubber. You might see some very small ones but any large ones are suspicious. The only way they can inspect the gimble bearing and ujoints is when the drive is off. They probably did that when they did the service on it. That and greasing the gimble, ujoints and the driveshaft splines is yearly maintenance. You can grease the gimble on some drives with the drive on, there is a grease fitting on the stbd side of the transom mount on OMC Cobras and Volvo SXs. If you do that yearly and change the gear oil and check for water and wear particles, the drive will last much longer.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I talked to the shop today, they told me the cost for a new tach and trim gauge sender, geez!!! And I asked them about the drive shaft and bellows and they told me that is part of the winterization. When they pull and realign the out drive they visually inspect the bellows and u-joints and gimbal as well as turn them by hand to further try to assess any play in the shaft, so I should be good there. I trust those guys at Norris marine to do their jobs well.

If your driveshaft bellows is original, personally I'd have it replaced the next time the drive is removed for any reason. If it was inspected last fall I'm sure it'll be fine this season but that's one of those parts you don't want to wait for a failure before replacing. It shouldn't be very expensive if the drive is already off.

Yep, the new trim senders are $$$.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I was wondering which was the expensive one, I figured it was the sender. They said they may have it done by Friday which would be great because it is supposed to be 80 with a slight wind! But with my luck it will probably be Monday or Tuesday before I get her back...