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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 12:15 pm 
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Does anyone know if the fuel tank can be removed without pulling the engine or cutting the floor? In front of the engine there is some space between it and the tank and a piece of plywood that is screwed to the stringers that holds the fuel tank in place. Of the plywood is removed, would the tank slide towards the engine with enough room to remove it?

My tank (from what I can see has a square shape that is up under the deck between the ski locker and engine compartment and the section in the visable engine compartment has sort of a triangle shape on either corner.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 12:25 pm 
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Looking at your pic, I would say it is feasible, with measurements..... I believe there is some other supporting structure underneath which keeps the tank from moving around. Get a snake-camera at Harbor Freight for about $100 to look around and see.
Why do you want to remove the gas tank?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 3:16 pm 
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I smell a slight hint of fuel in the bilge area. So I am thinking I might have a fuel leak somewhere.

My first thing is going to be replace the fuel lines and check for leaks. I already checked the fuel pump (replaced it and some of the fittings last May) and still get that slight hint of fuel smell. I smell it too when I have had it closed up with the cover over the whole boat for long periods of time.

If nothing else shows the sign of a fuel leak, the tank would probably be the culprit and it is plastic and 10 years old (look like it was the one installed when new. I was just trying to get an idea of my options and hoping that the deck would not need to be cut.

I need to see if I can find some measurements of what was installed to see if it could be pulled without cutting the floor.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 3:33 pm 
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Check the gasket around the sending unit, they can dry out and crack and leak small amounts of fuel. Is there a hatch over the tank? My '88 has a full size hatch over the tank so if I had to pull it out, I have pretty good access but they are heavy, unless you can drain close to all the gas out. The plastic ones last a very long time as long as it was secured so it didn't move around. If they move it is possible for a hole to get worn through the plastic. My tank is a 44 gallon aluminum tank, it is original so sooner or later I will be replacing it.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 3:39 pm 
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I am going to check that gasket Lou (I saw your post on another thread during my search for fuel leak). There is no hatch. My ski locker lid is in the center and there is a a space of flooring and then the removable ( "L" shaped) portion of the engine cover.

My research mentioned that sometimes the hoses get a pin hole leak too. I wish there was a colored additive that I could add to the fuel and maybe trace a drip line.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 4:07 pm 
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When I though I smelled fuel I took out the back seat and the hatch and just tightened the 5 bolts that hold the sending unit cover on. That's all it took to stop the slight odor I smelled. But I did install an Intex gas fume detector to be on the safe side. I think its a good idea for any gas powered inboard.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 4:33 pm 
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Pressurise the fuel tank to 5psi and closely inspect/ listen for leaks.
Having the same boat, I'd say the tank is staying there! :(
p.s. You will always get fuel odours with a carbeuretted engine. :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 4:43 pm 
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I found those in my search for a handheld detector. I think that needs to be my new addition for this season. Maybe when I changed the sensor tube I did not seal it down tight.

How do i pressurize the tank?

Yeah I know there is some fuel scent in there deafwish, but I feel it is bit more than normal. I always top off the tank before we go out so I am not sure, but I think my fuel consumption has been a bit higher. I am going to keep close track of the hours and fuel consumption.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 4:47 pm 
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P.S. That picture is old and was when I was installing the second battery. The battery cables do not run in the engine compartment like that! :mrgreen: Just realized what a mess it looks like.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 5:15 pm 
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Just a quick thought. Have you looked at the o-ring on the fuel cap? Mine cracked last season and I was getting fuel smell because it was letting fumes past from the vent hose back into the boat.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 7:10 pm 
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No, but I will check. Thanks

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 7:28 pm 
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To some extent all plastic tanks permeate a bit of fuel vapor not to a level that would be dangerous but enough that if you put your nose right next to it you can smell it just like the gas cans in the garage. Check that sending unit gasket (you can replace it if there is any doubt) and check the underside of all hose connections with a mirror to see if there is any fuel seepage. Take a bright LED flashlight and follow the fill hose all the way back to where it meets the gas fill. It takes very little fuel leakage to create an odor that you can smell. Also look at the bottom of your fuel filter/water separator, the some times rust if there was a bit of water in the bottom and can rust through.

Two things I like about aluminum tanks is that they do not permeate any fuel smell and they are easier to secure in the boat. The tank in mine has 4 large rectangular tabs welded onto it and these are screwed into 2 long mahogany mounts that are screwed into the main stringers. It is harder to really secure plastic tanks well. And if they move even a bit they can eventually wear through on the bottom. The plus side of them is no corrosion.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 8:06 am 
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PDACPA wrote:
How do i pressurize the tank?

Be careful with that. I would not pressurize an aluminum tank past 2.5 psi. A plastic tank even lower than that (1psi?). You need a good low pressure gauge, and a regulated air supply to make sure you don't make your tank look like a puffed-up pillow. (I saw it happen with an aircraft fuel tank once at just 4psi). Low pressure, and then brush or spray soapy water over the welds and suspect areas to look for bubbles.

But hoses, connections, and gaskets seem more likely than the tank itself.

Also, when was the last time the carburator was rebuilt. On some models (Holley), a bad accelerator pump can leak externally. The accelerator pump has rubber that can be damaged by ethenol. Make sure any carb rebuild kit has parts suitable for ethanol (even if you don't use ethanol, you might have to in a pinch).

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 8:26 am 
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I had the carb rebuilt last May. I am going to look at anything and everything with the tank being the last on the list. My tank is plastic, very stable (ie does not move at all) and visually does not appear to have any damage or leaks. Now if the weather would cooperate for me tomorrow, it is my Saturday morning project.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 8:30 am 
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Lou - I did check the fuel separator last May, but will do so again. I helped a friend install an aluminum tank in his 80's Mako he was redoing. Those tanks are solid and the 4 tabs screw into the stringers. We then foamed it in which basically fills all the space around the tank. My plan was if the tank needs to be replaced is to get an aluminum one made. I am not sure how the plastic one is mounted, but I am sure the aluminum tank can be used as a replacement. Hopefully the leak is somewhere other than the tank.

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