Used Four Winns...YR/Model/Engine Changes to Seek or Avoid?

Tom R · **Posted:** Sat May 11, 2013 7:55 am

Good Morning...

When looking at used Four Winns...say 17'-20' from 2000 to current...have there been meaningful model year changes that made improvements that would be good to look for? What about engines or other "issues" with any of the last 10 year plus models to try and avoid? Already learned to probably avoid the 3.0 as not quite enough power...and leaning toward 19 or 20'...maybe longer if I really find a nice one

Often you discover that those who own know...what year and/or engines, etc are either "rock solid" or maybe sb avoided.

Actually starting to see quite a few used FW for sale online in local Craigslist and local marinas/dealers. Would like to avoid the "opps" of buying and finding out later that a certain/model/year/engine or whatever should either be avoided or sought out.

Also, what is a "reasonable" price for a 100 hour very clean 2008 H190 4.3 190 HP...covers/bimini/snap on carpet/depth finder/flip up seats,,,"brokered" by the marina that originally sold it (ie FW dealer).

Thanks...Tom R

P.S. Anyone want to buy a couple of old Harleys...beginning a new "toy fund"

ric · **Posted:** Sat May 11, 2013 8:43 am

Avoid the 3.0.

That boat? 15-17k.

Tom R · **Posted:** Sat May 11, 2013 9:24 am

ric wrote:

Avoid the 3.0.

That boat? 15-17k.

Thanks Ric...on consignment for $20K...haven't spoken to the salesman yet. Sometimes consignment means they could not come to agreement on trade "value" so the dealer is selling on commission trying to get a higher price. Thanks...Tom R

TX H210SS · **Joined:** Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am **Posts:** 1488

Not aware of deal breakers but if you are looking at four winns built inlast 8 to 10 yrs then I'm sure you are out of the wood stringer era. Not sure of exact year they started using foam filled fiberglass stringers, but its less worrying.

Starting in motor year 2010 the inboard and sterndrives required catalytic converters. I don't know if true or if sales pitch, but I was told this sucks some HP due to back pressure in exhaust.....one thing is certain...this requirement added close to 3,000 to boat price. Not sure about y'all but I have many items on my want list that comes ahead of exhaust emmissions devices.

FW is a good boat and so are many others...they all use the same power plant basically, but its how the hull is formed that gives the ride differences. Also the fit..finish of how put together. Personally the FW bowrider is a good all round boat. Best at nothing but good at most things. But that I mean it doesn't compare to a wakeboat for wakeboarding...or a speedboat for racing. It does take rougher water than those...has higher cruise and run speeds than wakeboats while allowing your kidneys to still work...it does fine for water sports and has a stable squat in the water at low and higher speeds.

Access to drains on motor and exhaust kind of sucks in the h210 models but this sucks on most brands this size....get remote oil filter on whatever you get.

TX H210SS · **Joined:** Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am **Posts:** 1488

Personally I think the 5.0 or 5.7 is way to go...that way you have plenty of HP for whatever you want to do....I also prefer the 20 foot plus boats with 190 being smallest to consider.....no offense to the 180 guys but the longer heavier boat rides better in rougher water and gives more rooma...remember the a ed foot or two is as the mid portion of boat. Two feet is a big difference.

Its personal preference for sure and storage is issue too...the way I view it is the bigger motor price is repaid at resale mostly...kind of like 4x4 pn a truck here....you get close to price of upgrade back.

LouC · **Posted:** Sat May 11, 2013 11:31 am

I agree with the idea of going with at least a 20' because they have more useful space and ride better. Smaller than that get an outboard. Personally I'd avoid the newer ones with cat converters, if they go bad they are very expensive to replace. Unfortunately the later model FWs I/Os in smaller than 23 feet sizes are very difficult to work on for routine maintenance and repairs. Starter, non remote oil filter, and anything on the back of the engine (steering system, wiring, etc) will be very hard to get at because of poor design. I re-designed my old H-200 to make it easy (2 piece/hinged engine bulkhead and rear seat). The whole thing comes apart with screws and wingnuts. I can take out the seat on one side and swing the engine bulkhead open like a door (take apart hinges).
Even if you never do any of your own work, keep in mind that if it takes the mechanic hours to get at stuff, you are going to be billed for that. So if you go with a bigger boat (might cost more up front) but it has a wider easier to access engine compartment, it could be cheaper in the long run.

230 Mike · **Posted:** Sat May 11, 2013 2:07 pm

Really Tom, the mid-2000's Horizons are very nice, solid boats with no outstanding "gotcha's" that I can think of. Many of the 230/240's and some of the 250/260's (the whole FW line was re-numbered in '06, mostly due to the advent of integrated swim platforms) through that era had a starboard list (lean) if they had the dual battery option, but that was easily corrected by re-locating the batteries to the port side. (I don't think you're looking at anything that big anyway.) In the early 2000's, FW went through an improving of hardware; bimini poles, for example, went to a heavier grade of stainless steel with SS fittings instead of lighter SS with plastic fittings - things like that. If you keep your eyes open for small details, you'll see that sort of thing.

If I were shopping for 6-10 year old boats, one of my first criteria would be how the boat was stored. Any boat at that age, if stored out in the elements unprotected, is going to be starting to have vinyl issues - and that could become very expensive with few options other than eventual replacement $$$$.

LouC · **Posted:** Sat May 11, 2013 2:47 pm

+1 on the storage point, boats left outside even if covered can have oxidized gelcoat and mildew issues in the interior. Most of the rot that older boats suffer from is actually from dampness from accumulated rain water instead from being IN the water. Always try to buy the best condition boat you can regardless of make and/or drive system, it will be less trouble and easier in the long run.

Craig-o · **Posted:** Tue May 14, 2013 12:46 pm

I have a 2001 FW180H with the 4.3 + VP SX outdrive. The only "Gotcha" that I discovered (and this forum was very helpful to resolve) is the dashboard on the early 2000's (not sure of exact years.) If it has a dashboard like a car, made by VDO, beware. These are riddled with problems that are sometimes fixed by adding a ground, and other times only by replacement with separate gauges.

If the dash has individual gauges, then you're OK. Do a search on this forum for "VDO" and you'll see what I mean.

Aside from problems that were all connected to the dash (in my case, apparent low Oil Pressure), my FourWinns has performed flawlessly in the 10 years that I've owned her.

pet575 · **Posted:** Tue May 14, 2013 2:36 pm

Quote:

maybe longer if I really find a nice one

That's what SHE said!!!!

+1 to the comments on the mid-2000's models. If stored correctly and well cared for you will see several really nice ones out there. Pay close attention to the fit/finish and the maintenance/failure to maintain.

Also +1 to the VDO issue. If you find VDO on what you're looking for it shouldn't be a deal-breaker. Just know that you will either be facing issues with performance or looking at a total replacement and keep it in your budget.

With the large number of boats that are out there right now that are newer than 10 years old you should be able to find something REALLY nice with the right power package for well under $20K; $15-17K sounds about right for a good range. That may or may not be a FW; you'll find comparable brands and comparable models that are just as nice.

I'd choose a FW again but there are others (Crownline, Cobalt, Sea Ray) that are nicer or comparable that would suit you just fine. I'd buy any of those as well as a FW.

rpengr · **Posted:** Tue May 14, 2013 3:13 pm

Just to stretch you age range... I love my 2000 H240 with 5.7 Volvo SX drive.

Was stored and cared for right, so still looks like a 2 year old. However, if it had been left outdoors and uncovered all those years, it could look like a piece of junk, so there is a lot of variation of price & value as you go older.

I do have the VDO gauges, and they still work perfect. When/If they do fail, it will be a $300 replacement (+labor) to round gauges.

By going older, I got an H240 for an H170 price. The penalty is a little extra maintenance work, but am able to do most of that myself.

ric · **Posted:** Tue May 14, 2013 3:24 pm

Stick with a sx-m boat or alpha. I had a sx-a drive (2009) and it was a mechanics wet dream. Alpha drives are dime a dozen and cost nothing to fix. I love my alpha.

www.iFourWinns.com

Used Four Winns...YR/Model/Engine Changes to Seek or Avoid?

Who is online