www.iFourWinns.com

I posted a while ago but did a bit more research and field testing today....and came up with a bunch of questions. (I really hate knowing a bunch of stuff and nothing about boats, or at least my boat.


I have a video of the temp gauge activity but don't thing it will help, link available to anyone that wants to watch.

Engine starts fine, temp gauge acts normal. (warms to bottom third of gauge)

shortly thereafter gauge will warm to top third, then into the red, then rapidly back towards the bottom third. from here on out once engine is warm it will do this at any RPM, load, speed, turn etc. idle to WOT. in the course of 2 minutes cycle from cool (bottom third) to hot (top of red)

Although I didn't check at high full speed, at moderate speed (20 mph...3000 or so RPM) risers are hot to the touch with gauge showing hot, then get cold when gauge comes back down. Again this happens at all or any RPM/load though maybe cycles faster at higher RPM.

Engine never acts 'hot' that I can tell when gauge is showing hot (pinging, loss of power, blowing off hoses etc etc) temp light (idiot light) follows the gauge (when gauge hot light is on)


Its my first full season with the boat, so I don't know the history.... it has the suspect VDO gauge pack that seems wonky at best, it did this last year but didn't seem so obvious but I may not have paid so much attention to it. It has a new thermostat in it this spring.


Questions, are there two senders (one for gauge one for idiot light)
could this be 'normal' and just the gauge reading incorrectly


Friend suggested it might be a partial blockage by the water pump....impeller seems obvious as well but it 'felt' real good while replacing belts in the fall, (very snug, hard to turn by hand) thinking of pulling the thermostat next time out, or putting a simple auto style gauge straight on the sender. Read the other thread about checking ohms readings and that sounds like a valid test as well.

mostly checking if there are any folks with similar problems that can point me in the right direction.


**EDIT** added video link....think it does help describe if you have 1.5 minutes

http://youtu.be/OAWY1RG7Mw0

1998 Four Winns Horizon 200
500+ hours
4.3GL

_________________
Jon Miller
1998 four Winns Horizon H200
Volvo Penta 4.3 GL
Newtown, CT

untitled-545 by millerjont, on Flickr

I would change the impeller and T-stat. Impeller should be done every 1-2 yrs depending on usage anyway. Mine will do as you describe when on the muffs at idle; however, at anything above 1000 RPM, it cools right off.

_________________
Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

in my continued hillbilly approach to troubleshooting, pulled off hoses one at a time to check flow from water pump/impeller and water was coming out at an alarming rate as it was supposed to from all the appropriate hoses.

removed the thermostat and temp gauge never came off the peg, which leads my to believe I had a bad thermostat, forgot to bring it home to test on the stove however. Still thinking the gauge pack is screwed up as well however.

Anything besides a thermostat acting poorly that would cause the above temperature swings?

aside from running rich/poor fuel economy what are the other perils of running without a thermostat?

_________________
Jon Miller
1998 four Winns Horizon H200
Volvo Penta 4.3 GL
Newtown, CT

untitled-545 by millerjont, on Flickr

Looks like you have the vdo gauge setup which from what I have read on here are flawed. Others can confirm what type gauge you have though....I see the trim gauge is showing you are running at 3000 rpm with unit all way up. Were you on muffs during video or is that gauge messed up?

You need a thermostat....for one you don't want engine running too cold. It needs to be at operating temp. Also I have been told the water needs to stay in block for a period of time in order to transfer the heat from engine.

Buy an I fared thermometer at auto parts store...then you can check temp at various parts of motor and manifolds and see what's really going on...if all temps are good then its the guage or sender.

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http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o71 ... wqm355.jpg


08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi