www.iFourWinns.com

Just curious.. is it normal for my engine to start overheating after approx 5-8 mins on a garden hose/muffs? I'm always watching the needle and turn off the engine before it redlines. I don't have an overheating problem while on water so just want to make sure it's not an indication of something soon to fail.

Thanks!

No, not normal. Be sure your muffs supply water to both sides of the drive, not just one, and that your water is turned up all the way.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Got it. My muff only supplies water from one side. What brand/model muff do you use?

I couldn't tell you the brand. There are the cheap 1-sided ones which are all about the same, and the more expensive 2-sided ones which are also all about the same. The good ones will run $20-25.

Here's an example of a good one, but you should be able to find a similar one at Overton's, West Marine, Cabela's, Bass Pro, etc. This one is Seasense brand, which is reputable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/marine-Dual-Flo ... 65&vxp=mtr

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Thanks!

garden hose full pressure, both side muffs, idle only. Anything above idle it will overheat.

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

I happened to pick mine up today so looked for a brand. They're Tempo, another reputable name. I can run mine a bit higher than idle with no change in temp, but I don't for long.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Does your 5.0 Gi not have the fresh water flush with the blue cap on the left side of the motor when facing it? That's what I use to run my 5.0 gxi out of the water. Hook up the hose on full blast and fire it up. If anything, I have a hard time getting the engine warm with cold hose water rushing into the motor. Usually run at high idle to get it warmed up.

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Seth




2005 210 Horizon
5.0L GXi
"Don't Think Twice"

Unfor it does not.

Is that system meant to be used with the engine running? I thought you might burn up your impeller because of no water entering from the outdrive?

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

First no it's not normal for it to overheat after that much time on the muffs at low idle. I run my 5.7 at low idle on the muffs until I see the temps reach normal operating and I give it a little throttle once in a while and the temps stay way normal.

Second I was told by someone exactly what you said about messing up the impeller running on that blue hose fitting so I always run off the muffs. I have a two sided water entry model so that might be a difference. Make sure you don't have any crinks in the hose and the water pressure is all the way up. Never leave your boat unattended while running on the muffs, the other day I started her up and she was running fine with great pressure and I was looking at the water flow coming out of the outdrive area, I started messing with the suction cups on the side of the outdrive and pulled the hose and the water crinked and I had for a split second minimal water. I straightened up the line and it started flowing normal but that was enough for me I tossed that water hose and have a new one to avoid any problems in the future in case I have some adult beverages and I am not that attentive to catch something like that.

Most are designed for use with the engine running, as they feed water into the cooling system water hose before the water pump. For a short time, something like 2001-2002, VP had a flush system that was not designed for use with the engine running; the later system is so simple in it's construction and use, I just can't understand why they bothered with the more complex earlier system. It'd be a very easy retrofit to an earlier engine.

Prior to 2005, I used to run my 1999 5.7GSi on muffs as it did not have the flushing system; one sided muffs ( albeit with a very strong spring, so there was little leakage once the engine was running), it never overheated !

Is that system meant to be used with the engine running? I thought you might burn up your impeller because of no water entering from the outdrive?[/quote]

Like previously mentioned, that system is designed to be used with the engine running. It basically feeds hose water directly into the impeller. If I remember reading correctly, there was another system (like Graham mentioned) with a green inlet cap that was not designed to be used with the engine running. I really like the system I use, no chance of the muffs getting out of place and I am certain that water is reaching the impeller.

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Seth




2005 210 Horizon
5.0L GXi
"Don't Think Twice"

As others noted you should be able to run the engine at idle as long as you want without overheating. The muffs must fit tightly. I have the dual inlet Tempo ones and over time the spring starts to relax and they can be not tight enough. Keep in mind that a Volvo or Bravo has the impeller way up on the engine and it's harder to get these engines to prime the impeller than on an Alpha or Cobra since they have the impeller in the drive. When you have the boat in the water this is usually not a problem because you have the water pressure against that hose pushes the water in. On land your hose has to be able to push the water from the water intakes all the way up to the impeller. If you have poor fitting muffs, or any air leaks in the raw water inlet line it can cause that impeller not to prime. I tested how well the muffs work by removing my Cobra impeller (in the rear of the upper gear housing, 3 bolts and it's out). I had to bend the spring on the Tempo muffs to get them to fit tighter to get good flow. You can remove the hose that feeds the impeller at the impeller have some one turn on the water and see if you have water at the end of that hose. If not try to get the muffs tighter and check all the hose clamps . The other thing that helps sometimes is, first remove the prop. Then, when you start the engine with the water on, squeeze the muffs tight to the lower unit, sometimes that helps get the water flow up to the impeller and you can see it not spitting water out around the muffs.

I had the little hose that goes from the transom to the p/s cooler pop off and a good Cobra impeller will fill the bilge with seawater in about 5 min. A good impeller can move a LOT of water....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

The one risk with the "blue cap" method is that if you don't get the cap back on TIGHT with a good airtight seal, the system will suck air instead of, or in addition to, water. That's why it has a hex head, so you can put a wrench on it.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic