And if you are going to use antifreeze, DO NOT use one of those suck the AF up through the drive kits you can buy from West Marine on a raw water cooled engine. If the thermostat does not open all the way, you will have AF in the manifolds and very little in the engine block/heads. That method can work only if you have closed cooling with a heat exchanger. On a raw water cooled engine you can wind up with a cracked block in the spring because the thermostat did not open and AF did not get in the block/heads and they remained full of water.
The main thing is to DRAIN ALL THE WATER. Block has one drain on each side, you pull off the bottom end of the big hose to the front mounted water pump (that holds a lot of water), each manifold has a drain, and the raw water intake hose has to be drained too. Only after ALL THE WATER IS DRAINED, should you add AF. You drain to prevent freezing, AF is for added corrosion protection. I add it by pouring it in the hoses manually.
After draining, you poke all the drain holes because they can get clogged with rust flakes and not drain. Then I put some OMC gasket sealer on the threads of the plugs and reinstall them. I then reconnect that big hose on the bottom end (water pump end) and disconnect it at the top end (thermo housing end). Next I pour in the disconnected end of that hose about 2 gallons or so of -100 no tox antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors, till I see it come out the thermo housing. Then re-connect that hose.
Next I do the manifolds the same way, fill each one till I hear the no tox AF run out on the ground. Lastly I disconnect the raw water intake hose at the thermo housing and point it down in the bilge to make sure it drains. Then I take a funnel and put it in the hose and fill that hose till AF runs out the water intakes on the outdrive. That will push out any water that did not drain.
That, is how you PROPERLY use antifreeze to winterize.
Of course this is in addition to the motor oil/filter change, outdrive oil change, and you really should remove the drive and inspect the bellows, gimble bearing and u-joints if it has not been done in a while. If you have water in the bellows that sits there all winter you will have a rusted gimble bearing, u joints and a howling rumbling drive train the spring. And for those who never take the drive off, the driveshaft can rust into the coupler and then you are SOL, it may not come off without expensive persuasion
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