www.iFourWinns.com

Hope summer is going great for every one.Was out yester day when out of no where my 5.8 liter omc started smoking,I shut down right away and saw I was over heating first thing I checked was for debre blocking my intake ,None.Then I took my water pump on the out drive a part (great design can get to it in the water )All looked fine removed the 3/4 hose coming from out drive and blew in it seem cloged at first but then it was easy to blow air through to the out dvive and watch the bubbles come up so I beleive it was clear.I left the hose of beleiveing that if I started the engine the out drive pump should send water to the engine igf this is the suplie from the out drive pump but nothing just some excess water blew out of the engine at the hose conection and I shut down right away is that what this hose is?what else could it be where is the primary pump on this engine and the thermastat.Could it be as simple as a thermastat or is there away to check to see that the out drive pump is pumping.Any idea's would be so helpfull all of your help have made me a better boater and I thank you all for that.Want to get back out there and Sea Tow is worth every penny Thank you Sea Tow

Did you check you impeller on the engine. When ours went bad on our Lake boat one of the engines got warm and the alarm sounded , we shut it down and drove back on one engine, come to find out the Impeller went bad. Quick fix and we were back out the next morning.

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1997 Horizon RS 180
5.7 GL Volvo Penta /SX drive. (1.60)
2018 Ford F-150 super crew 4x4

On those Cobras yes the hose that comes from the transom to the thermostat housing is the hose that feeds water from the impeller to the thermo housing. And yes if you remove that hose and start the engine briefly with the boat in the water (may not work on the water hose on land) water should come out of that hose. In fact my recent experience with the short hose from the transom mount to the P/S cooler coming off proved that a good Cobra impeller will fill the bilge with seawater right up to the engine mounts in less than 5 minutes! If you're not getting water from that hose, then it could be several things. For one you pulled out the impeller, were all the blades present? When you put it back together, did you get that rubber O-ring seal in place in the plastic housing?
What I do when I replace an impeller is check water flow in at the impeller housing and also make sure the hose from the transom to the thermo housing is unobstructed. This also verifies that the P/S cooler is not clogged. I take off the impeller housing, Iput on the water muffs on the lower unit and turn on the water. The water should come out of the right hand side opening in the impeller mount (what you see after you pull out the impeller). If water comes out good if not there is a problem with the water tube gaskets in the outdrive, this requires splitting the outdrive to repair. Make sure to hold the muffs firm to the lower unit when you do that test. Then, take the garden hose off the muffs and put the end of it into the hose that goes from the transom mount to the thermo housing. Have someone turn on the hose while you watch the left side opening in the impeller mount. Water should flow out. If not there is a blockage in that hose, the P/S cooler or the small hose from the pivot housing to the transom mount. That takes care of water getting from the water intakes to the impeller and from the impeller to the thermo housing. Keep in mind that impellers can 'look' good and not pump well. So after you do these tests try running it with a new impeller.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thank you sounds like good advice I did check all the fins they all seemed good but your right the test you have told me should give me a strong idea of whats going on thinking that the impeller makes sense just looked to good and was put in 8 hours before this.What is the litle hose comming off the impeller housing and how often should i instal a new thermastat thanks again Jamie

The little hose allows air out of the housing to make prime easier. When you have the impeller housing off, you can blow thru that nipple to make sure it's clear. With the engine running on the water hose, if you remove that plastic cover and pull off the small hose from the housing water should squirt out. The thermostats last a long time; as long as it opens at about 160* it's probably fine.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thank you looking forward to get my baby back onto the great southbay hope all a great summer

I experienced a similar situation last week. Smoke pouring out of the engine blower ducts after warming it up and then taking a 5 minute full throttle run. The temp gauge was reading its normal 160 F. I shut it off and opened the engine cover. The port side exhaust header was extremely hot and blistered the paint off of the cast iron elbow, the starboard side was normal. The engine & hoses felt normal. I gradually dowsed the header with a few buckets of lake water. We beached it, set up a shade tarp, and spent the rest of the day on shore, then idled back to the ramp.

I just finished doing an R & R today with a new raw water impeller, new recirc. pump (the old one was leaking from the rear cover plate when running with a hose and muffs), & a new thermostat.

I removed the thermostat housing and found a couple bits of old impeller from the previous owner and heavy corrosion lodged in the port side nipple on the thermostat housing. I chased both sides with a drill, cleaned up the innards, and put in a new thermostat. Seems to be running normal now, can't wait to lake test it again. I'm satisfied I found the cause of the problem and remedied it.

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gale
'96 200 Horizon
VP Cobra SX 5.7GL

Be careful on your next test run, stay close to the docks/shore. If it overheated to the point of blistering paint, your head gasket could be shot and/or your exhaust manifold/riser could be cracked. Also, when old bits of impeller are present, make sure you get every one of them. Basically match the bits up to the old hub and try to "reassemble" the old impeller to make sure no more are missing. They WILL end up in the worst places if not found.

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1996 205 Sundowner DLX
5.0FL Volvo SX Cobra
Tow Veh: 2012 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X

Having been through something similar but a bit more dramatic this summer (hose from the transom to the P/S cooler popped off, filled bilge with salt water, overheated engine) here are a few things more to check:
If this model used flappers in the Y pipe (I know Volvo discontinued them at some point but not sure what year) on that side they would have melted and could have dropped down in the pipe and can block the exhaust.
I replaced the flappers on both sides, the OMC Cobras of the original style used flappers.
I took off the exhaust manifolds and filled them with acetone (less surface tension than water, will find minute cracks). Lucky no leaks. When I was waiting to get towed in, I had an IR thermometer on the boat and check the manifold temps....375*F...I guess OMC made a good manifold.
Then I knew that sometimes the water tube gaskets in the drive can be melted in a bad overheat. Mine were OK but the plastic guide for the bottom gasket was melted, so I replaced that (of course had to split the drive).
When I had the manifolds off I checked for rust in the exhaust ports in the head (sign of water, could be bad exhaust or cracked head) lucky found none.
Checked compression, OK same as 3 years ago.
Had the boat out 4 times since, so far so good.

Find out if that model had flappers....

Edit, did it for you...here is the OMC version of the joint venture drives of which your Volvo is the Volvo version, looks like you have the same flappers as I do and you should therefore pull off that manifold and see what it looks like (probably a melted mess)
looky here....I can't look up Volvo parts but I can do that for OMC or the joint venture models (94-98).

http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-ev ... /56423.cfm
Part #32

add to yearly maintenance, check the hose clamps on this little hose...

Part #9 is the little bastige that ruined my day...make sure those clamps are TIGHT...

http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-ev ... /56730.cfm


and in your case....remove the feed hoses for the manifolds and ream em out with a drill bit. Or if getting really rusted just replace the whole thermo housing, #23, $90 now I paid $60 about 8 years ago...
http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-ev ... /56723.cfm

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Great advice, I'll check the flappers and part the outdrive & inspect the exhaust hose bellows. My engine is the VP 572BPNCS, 5.7 GL, which clearly should have had flappers in 1996. Good time to check the transom bellows too, it's been a couple seasons since I last had it off.

I did ream out the thermostat housing exhaust manifold feed nipples, corroded like you said. The housing will need replacing with the next thermostat change. In the meanwhile, I'll add the removing of the hoses and ream the nipples to my next pre-season to do list & again mid-season.

Here's confirmation that Volvo recommended removing the flappers:
(fussy link, cut and past the whole line into your browser)

http://www.marinemechanic.com/volvo/volvo/2010/25-2-5A[1]exhaustflapper.pdf

Time to dust off the rolling stand I made a few years ago for removing the outdrive when I did the U-joints:





2x4's that sandwich the outdrive just under the fin plates, bolted to an open ended stand/frame on casters.

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gale
'96 200 Horizon
VP Cobra SX 5.7GL

Nice Stand. I have been planning on doing something similar, but starting with a $15 Harbor Freight Moving Dollie for the rolling base.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings