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Port header overheat -- follow-up . . .
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Author:  gale [ Tue Oct 01, 2013 5:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Port header overheat -- follow-up . . .

"LouC" Many thanks for suggesting I look for a melted flapper. I found exactly that. I owe you a beer. The next time my son goes back to NY, I'll have him look you up & tip up a few pints.

I removed the elbow and saw the flapper was gone but still had the pivot pin. Then I pulled starboard elbow and its flapper was still intact, so I removed it per the VP Bulletin. Next I pulled outdrive and found the port side flapper, melted to crap as you said it would be:

Image

Image

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Good time to lube the U-joint spiders, glad I kept the stand:

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I snaked a vacuum cleaner hose down both sides of the exhaust Y-pipe, don't think there was any debris.

No leaks in the manifold nor riser, so all I'm replacing is the lower boot and riser gaskets. Turns out the elbow which I thought was cast iron and blistered all the paint off, is actually aluminum. Same for the Y-pipe.

Transom bellows is still in good shape, same for the exhaust bellows, it was still getting sufficient water cooling from the starboard side, which didn't have any water blockage, and perhaps was getting even more flow from what wasn't going to the port side.

Thanks again!

Author:  LouC [ Tue Oct 01, 2013 8:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Port header overheat -- follow-up . . .

Great Job!
I keep an IR heat temp gun on the boat so I can check manifold temps every now and then. If you check when its running right then you have a baseline and if the temp starts rising you know to look for issues.
Normal temps, at idle is about 85-95 degrees on both manifolds. After a run, highest temp I might see is 125 but after a few minutes idling it drops back down to 100 or so.
To check proper thermostat function take a reading of the intake manifold right under the thermo housing. It should be within about 10* of the rating of the stat. When my gauge reads 160 the reading of the intake is about 150-155*. If its colder than that after running a while like 120* your thermo is sticking open....

Your flapper looked just like mine.
BTW when you reinstall the drive, coat the mating surfaces with a good marine grease to prevent metal to metal corrosion.
My Cobra uses a gasket there but the Volvo does not need one. You can in some cases get corrosion there and it can make removing the drive a pain....

Author:  NiagaraChillin [ Wed Oct 02, 2013 7:08 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Port header overheat -- follow-up . . .

Good job, and good post/pics. I made a similiar cradle for my drive (all wood tho). Hopefully all the guys who are nervous about removing their drives will see this and others posts about how easy it is to do.

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