www.iFourWinns.com

Need some help went out on the lake last weekend boat ran perfect. after towing a couple of tubers turned off the engine and wow engine will not start. Nothing turn key to start position alarm works gauges work no click no nothing from the starter. The weird part about this is last season same part of the lake, same problem, exactly.

After working the ing key back and forth / working the shift lever to assure neutral switch would contact hopefully / checked all fuses assured that the starter relay was seated. After fiddling around with. it started and ran fine / same as last season. Could the starter get heat soaked and when it cooled it resets?

The solution is the same for all the other 'no start' situations. Start with the basics:
Battery terminals (must be clean, get rid of wing nuts, use nyloc nuts or bolt on automotive style battery clamps to the terminal ends)
Battery cables, if they are still using un-tinned automotive crap, then take them off, get marine grade ones made up at a decent boating shop with TINNED wire, marine quality battery clamps and at least 2 gauge wire.
Starter terminals, they have to be clean and free of corrosion.
Check where the negative cable attaches to the engine ground, it must also be clean, free of corrosion and tight.
You may have an intermittent problem with the ignition switch or the neutral safety switch but the other causes are more common.

one more time....electrickery......the visual.....

https://www.dropbox.com/s/k5qgh23sbb4fp ... icture.jpg

in the pic, Ohms, are being increased, by corroded cheap wiring. If you don't have enough Amps, then no start...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks, like the ohms law cartoon. All wiring is like new along with the battery connections. Will need to check the engine ground. The weird part is that it restarts after it sets for a while. Will have a test light and meter on the boat for the next outing. Thinking about applying heat from a heat gun (Hair Dryer) with the boat out of the water to see if I can get the starter to fail. Will not fire the engine.

3.0's have a massive problem of vapor locking cause the fuel line runs along the engine, but the starter not working? That's not what I would consider something that's known to happen.

Weird.

Are you sure the engine isn't locked up?

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

I can't see the engine locking and then unlocking. If you have clear access to starter the cylinoid is affixed on top of it. Should be on starboard side toward rear. If it does this then you can top on cylinoid with wrench a couple times. If that makes it start then cylinoid is starting to fail.

Not very scientific but they will do that when heated for some reason. If that is case you can remove starter and have tested....if bad I have taken in for rebuild at a starter shop.

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http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o71 ... wqm355.jpg


08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi

Ok back at it again. Replaced the ing switch . . . just cauz and purchased a new starter solenoid. Easy replacement on the ing switch. Thought that if I could replace the solenoid with out pulling the starter I would just replace it. Well no way I could see how to pull that off. While in the process of removing wires I noticed that the rear bracket that supports the starter and I think a ground, has a small 8mm nut that secures the stud out of the back of the starter to the side of the engine block. Could this be the problem all along. When heated up would flex and not connect?

Have you resolved this restarting issue?
Has it happened again?

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GalacticWaterman
Boat: Four Winns H180 2006 3.0L Mercruiser 135 hp with Alpha I Gen. 2
Tow Vehicle: Honda Ridgeline