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 Post subject: Red spark plugs are out!
PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 1:16 pm 
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I changed the spark plugs for the first time in my '07 (240 hours). I thought it was funny that there was volvo red paint on the original ones from the factory engine paint job. I feel like I now have a slightly steadier idle. This is the first time (of many) I've ever replaced spark plugs and its actually seemed to have made a difference! Its nice when you find out your time has not been wasted.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 4:58 pm 
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Good work... It's an easy job on our vintage small block Chevrolets.

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2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 5:49 pm 
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LouC wrote:
Good work... It's an easy job on our vintage small block Chevrolets.


Yes, but correctly gapping & anti-seizing the threads is still a time consuming PITA! :P
Some of us tight-asses have to do this annually, with copper plugs!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 7:29 pm 
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I take them out after I burn off the fogging oil. If they look good I clean up the threads put a little motor oil on the threads and re install. I thank the Lord above I can still have a beautifully simple and inexpensive small block Chevrolet in my boat instead of the unnecessarily complex and expensive crap forced on us by those who "think" they know what's better for us.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 8:27 pm 
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Location: ohio
skidaddytn you had plugs in for 8 years ? thats getting your moneys worth out of a set of plugs i replace mine every year. like louc does i burn off the oil i use to winterize but then put new plugs in. I keep the old ones for spares in case i have a problem out on the water i can switch out and get back to the docks

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 8:49 pm 
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Hey LouC,

Can you get the fogging oil covered plugs to fire, after sitting for months?! :o

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 10:37 pm 
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She'll fire after the second crank over and that's with points and condenser ignition.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 8:45 am 
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Location: Metro Detroit
I have never had a problem with my plugs on the ol 4.3 V6 after fogging. Started first turn this year.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 9:35 am 
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>skidaddytn you had plugs in for 8 years ? thats getting your moneys worth out of a set of plugs i replace mine every year

Well.. my reasoning is, if they last in the V8 in the truck for 100,000 miles, the boat can get at least 8 years out of them... probably would have gone much much longer than that even, but I found a good deal and a rebate on new ac/delco plugs.

I don't use anti-seize on spark plugs ever.. or even any oil... don't gap them either, just visually inspect... almost every plug is now pregapped... they go in at like 11 ft-lbs. They always come out super easy.. I've never once had difficulty pulling a spark plug out. I guess if you bought a used boat and somebody else over cranked them in you could have an issue.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 4:02 pm 
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Salt water use. You put either OMC triple guard grease or motor oil on threads. If you keep a boat on a rotating mooring like I do its in the salt air all season. The best things to avoid seized threads in salt water are:
OMC gasket sealer (all the bolts on the outdrive, thermostat housing bolts, impeller bolts)
OMC triple guard grease (all pivot points for the shift/throttle linkage, driveshaft splines) also I coat the starter terminals with it to prevent corrosion
motor oil works well on spark plug threads.

Notice I did not list anti seize compound. Even though many like to use it, anti seize is not recommended in most shop manuals. The OMC gasket sealer and triple guard grease are recommended for many applications.
In one of our marine Chevy engines, you don't need it because the cast iron heads and the steel plugs do not cause galvanic corrosion as can sometimes happen with aluminum heads. I used to use anti seize and found it can cake up in the threads and cause trouble removing. So now all I use on spark plug threads is a light coat of engine oil.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 6:38 pm 
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It's the heat that spark plug threads endure that will eventually vaporise most greases/ oils.
Most greases have a drop point that is significantly lower than the temp's they endure!
Like on exhaust manifold studs, I use copper grease/ anti-seize on every plug thread I've ever fitted - car, boat and bike.

Removing seized plugs from heads is not a fun task to perform! :x

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Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 5:45 am 
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Experiment done some years back:
98 Jeep with cast iron head, first plug change I used anti seize. 30K miles later they come out but a bit of resistance, I can see the anti seize caked in the threads
Every other change after that (60K, 90K, 120K, 150K) only used motor oil. They came out much easier each time. I have 9 small engines, all with alu heads. None gets anti seize all come out easily. If you do use it use very little.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 12:44 pm 
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
LouC wrote:
Experiment done some years back:
98 Jeep with cast iron head, first plug change I used anti seize. 30K miles later they come out but a bit of resistance, I can see the anti seize caked in the threads
Every other change after that (60K, 90K, 120K, 150K) only used motor oil. They came out much easier each time. I have 9 small engines, all with alu heads. None gets anti seize all come out easily. If you do use it use very little.

Along the same lines, I have never used anti-seize on spark plugs. I used to use oil, now I coat the entire metal plug with T-9 rust preventative. I think Tef-Gel would be fine too.

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'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 6:36 pm 
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Not all anti-seize's are designed for this temp' range & will break down!
Copper Grease is.
Have used it on turbo hot-side studs of many a race car & after months of abuse have been easy as pie to remove.

Just sayin'... :wink:

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Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS


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