www.iFourWinns.com

Damn bad luck, was cruising and suddenly boat rapidly slowed down and engine coughed and stalled.
After engine started ok but I could no longer reach cruising, planing speed, rpms would go to max but not enough power to propeller.
So I decided to check the propeller and sure enough, the black paint is rubbed off on the blades (about quoter distance from outer edges) and also the "fin" below the propeller has its paint partially gone.
Couple of the blades feel like the edges are bent near the tips (actually it's quite clear on one of them).

So I have two questions.
Can this propeller be repaired? Is it worth it? It's the stock one that came with my H180 3L
Someone at launch ramp told me during a chat that I should get a 20p propeller to get better performance.
It's interesting because yesterday we were four adults in the H180 and I could not get it planing without one person sitting in the bow section.
Is that something a different propeller would remedy or is that a limitation of the boat's weight distribution?
Good place to get a replacement, spare, or different propeller?
Thanks for any advice.
And apologies if this should be in a different forum (admin please move the post if it's not appropriate here).

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GalacticWaterman
Boat: Four Winns H180 2006 3.0L Mercruiser 135 hp with Alpha I Gen. 2
Tow Vehicle: Honda Ridgeline

You can get the propeller repaired. It doesn't sound like its a stainless prop, so it may be aluminum. I've bent 3 blades on a stainless prop and IIRC, it cost me about $250 CAD to repair.

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2011 SL242 5.7 VP GXi - 320 HP Dual Prop

If aluminum just buy another for $150

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

I'd buy a new one & get the old one fixed so you have a back up.

And get a chartplotter or at least depth gauge. You do need to plan ahead where you're going to go and make sure there's going to be enough water there...

Having dealt with prop issues (usually from submerged crab pots) I picked a set of spare wheels for our 348. $2k for the lucky rabbit's feet. Better to have spares readily available rather than lose possibly two weeks of boating time while your current ones get repaired.

Note, it's not just a prop that can get damaged. Since you killed the engine you'd better have spare impellers onboard. Sucking sand up into the engine will definitely shorten an impeller lifespan.

And pay careful attention as to whether you feel any changes in vibration once the prop is repaired. It's entirely possible something else in the drive got bent. Hopefully not, but if you feel anything new then stop and get it fixed before things get worse.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

I've used these guys before for AL prop repair: http://www.propmd.com/. I haven't used the prop they repaired (I keep it as a backup to my SS prop) so no complaints. I think the repair cost was $50 but I can't remember if that included shipping or not.

Thanks everybody for the good advice.
Although I don't have a depth gauge yet, I don't think one would help me in this case as the sandbar was actually just a random "sand hill" in the water near shallow sandy area. I just went too close to the shore and have learned my lesson.

I'd love to get a SS 20p propeller for my H180 but I could not find one yet online. It does not seem to be listed as an option for my boat.

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GalacticWaterman
Boat: Four Winns H180 2006 3.0L Mercruiser 135 hp with Alpha I Gen. 2
Tow Vehicle: Honda Ridgeline

What was your max rpm with the prop you had? If it matches the manufacturers spec for max rpm then you should not change it because the engine might over-rev at full throttle.
I use aluminum props which are cheap but easily damaged so I keep a spare on board.
And, I would not think of operating any boat bigger than our 10' dinghy without a depth finder around here because of the potential for damage. In addition, once you have one for a while you will get the lay of the land so to speak about where the really shallow areas are.
Keep an eye on your temp gauge the next time out to make sure that the impeller did not get damaged by sucking in sand. If you see a rise in temp then get it looked at.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

How fast were ya going when ya hit?


+1 on that. I would be worrying less about my prop and more about my drive. Have it checked out.

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1996 205 Sundowner DLX
5.0FL Volvo SX Cobra
Tow Veh: 2012 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X

20 pitch, for your boat....

http://www.mercurymarine.com/propellers/comp/enertia/

It is quite expensive though. I have been using this for a few seasons and have been quite satisfied. Having said that, I wouldn't mind if it were down in pitch 1" more when the boat is really heavily loaded. I have never struggled to get on plane, it has just been slower to get on plane with a full load of adults.

A less expensive option would be this in 19" pitch...

http://www.mercurymarine.com/propellers/sport/vengeance/

If you want to stick to aluminium and aren't worried about top speed, this could be an option in 18" or 20" pitch (probably 18, seeing as you are going up in blade count)

http://www.mercurymarine.com/propellers/aluminum/alpha-4/

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2009 H180 w/3.0 Merc
Homebuilt Minimax Hydro
2011 Zodiac Cadet 310

Good find Chrisvs, thanks.
I'll research a bit more but looks like I'll stay with 19p but get a SS four blade which should be ok. I'm worried the 20p might be too much for this little 3L motor and my big heavy behind

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GalacticWaterman
Boat: Four Winns H180 2006 3.0L Mercruiser 135 hp with Alpha I Gen. 2
Tow Vehicle: Honda Ridgeline

Yes, I'm a bit nervous about that too. But also a bit optimistic as I made it back to the marina about 10K without any problems and everything looks ok after a brief visual inspection.

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GalacticWaterman
Boat: Four Winns H180 2006 3.0L Mercruiser 135 hp with Alpha I Gen. 2
Tow Vehicle: Honda Ridgeline

Not to be negative or give ya a hard time, but the expensive stuff can't be diagnosed like that. A hard hit can damage hydraulics, gears, propshaft, u-joints, gimble bearing, transom seal, transom mount, etc... I would at least remove the drive and check the internals. Fill your bilge with water (not high enough to touch starter/oilpan tho) and see if any leaks out around the transom seal area.

Better to find the problem now than get stranded with $$$$ repairs...

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1996 205 Sundowner DLX
5.0FL Volvo SX Cobra
Tow Veh: 2012 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X

An important thing to monitor is any change in driveline vibration. That's a sure sign something's been either bent or knocked out of alignment. This and any change in noises from it. This is harder to detect without the engine hatch open, so you might not readily know how it sounds normally. But most of the there shouldn't be any uneven or metallic contact kinds of noises. Obviously you'd feel some when the prop is damaged, but you also need to watch out for any new vibrations after the new or repaired props are installed. Because bent parts of the drive can cause more expensive things to fail as a result.

So don't plan on your fun activities resuming immediately on getting the new props and back in the water. Make sure you've got time for a bit of a shakedown run. Because if there is anything else wrong you do not want to let your fun activity plans overrule the more sensible course of taking it back out of the water.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Hi again.
So I've hit a snag again
I wanted to take the damaged propeller off and get it to the shop for repair.
I managed to take the 1 1/16" nut off but the next piece, kind of a ring would not come out.
I tried to pry it a bit with a screwdriver but it would not budge and started to worry about cracking the propeller housing.
The marina manager mentioned I need some kind of puller tool.
Interestingly, even though I have both shop manuals for the Mercury 3L motor and for the Alpha outdrive, neither mentions ( at least I was not able to find) how to take the propeller off.
So I'm pissed off, wasted an hour driving to the marina and still at square one.
Can someone please explain to me what is involved in taking the propeller off and what tools I need?
Thanks

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GalacticWaterman
Boat: Four Winns H180 2006 3.0L Mercruiser 135 hp with Alpha I Gen. 2
Tow Vehicle: Honda Ridgeline