Can my Toyota Sienna tow 1987 170 Horizon?

brentm77 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:51 pm

I recently purchased a 1987 170 Horizon w/ Chevy 350 Engine. I am having a difficult time finding the weight of the boat and trailer. My 2006 Toyota Sienna has a towing capacity of 3500 ibs. Is it safe to tow the boat short distances on relatively flat terrain? I can borrow a truck for mountain climbs and long distances.

Thank you,
Brent

GottWhat · **Posted:** Mon Jun 08, 2015 1:08 pm

A high estimate is 2500lbs for the boat, 700lbs for the trailer and then 150 lbs for fuel. You are at 3350 lbs before you add any gear. I think you would be fine towing it with the Sienna. Just be sure your surge brakes are working well.

Craig-o · **Posted:** Mon Jun 08, 2015 1:15 pm

The Four Winns website has owners manuals back to 1998 available for download. Looking at the one for 1998, the dry weight of the boat (no fuel or accessories) is 2,300 lbs with a 4.3L engine (they do not list a 5.7L as an option for a 170.) The trailer weight is listed at 585 lbs, for a total of 2,885 dry weight. If you do, in fact have a 5.7L/350 motor, I'd think that will add another 200 lbs or so, for a total of ~3,100 lbs - EMPTY.

So technically, you would not exceed the max towing capacity of your vehicle, properly equipped, and probably without ANY passengers.

However, keep in mind that there is no frame on a minivan, the tow hitch is mounted to sheet metal. Also, this is a front-wheel drive vehicle; you will need to look at the tongue weight, and be aware that when the trailer is pushing down on the tongue/hitch, you're taking traction away from the driven wheels. Add the surface tension of trying to pull the boat out of the water, and you may have trouble on the launch ramp, especially if it's at all steep.

So, technically, while this may be acceptable (barely), I would think it unwise.

Just my $0.02.

Cap'n Morgan · **Posted:** Mon Jun 08, 2015 1:32 pm

The Sienna also comes with AWD.

Looking at the catalog for a 1987 170H, dry weight with base I/O engine is only 1,480 lbs.
Max I/O horsepower is 230 (which is the 5.7L) So your weight of boat and engine will be
well under 3,000lbs. Go ahead and pull it with the Sienna. it should do fine, FWD or AWD.

DougT01 · **Joined:** Wed May 20, 2015 6:44 pm **Posts:** 121

I think you're going to be borderline for my comfort.
My target is to not load out more than 75% of capacity.

I would load out and take to a CAT scale. Weigh the vehicle + boat and then just vehicle. The difference should be your tongue weight.
The 1st weighing cost ~$12, each additional $3. They usually have plenty of room to drop your boat off.

Make sure your hitch is rated for load weight and tongue weight.
When I am pulling a camper, I adjust WD hitch to put back front axle weight within 25lbs.

Look at front axle weights with and without boat.

JMHO

Doug

Craig-o · **Posted:** Mon Jun 08, 2015 5:14 pm

I will also add that when i got my 2001 Horizon 180 (4.3GL, single axle trailer, 3,280 lbs published dry weight), I only had a minivan to pull it. This was a GM minivan (Pontiac Montana EXT, with the towing and self-leveling package), also rated at 3,500 towing capacity. I used it for about a year, but always thought I was pushing the limit, especially with 6 people in the minivan, gas (6 lbs/gal) and toys in the boat.

My comment about front wheel drive and pulling out on a moderately steep ramp comes from personal experience. We had to move as much weight out of the boat and into the front passenger seat to get enough grip on one occasion - that was the last time we towed with the minivan.

Although it technically didn't exceed the specs, I felt much more secure on the freeway with my family once we replaced it with a Suburban and subsequently, an Expedition. It used to weigh on my mind every time we trailered it, now I don't give it a second thought.

jontmiller · **Joined:** Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:16 am **Posts:** 296

It all depends on the mission, I have a Volvo XC90 yuppie suv that I use to tow my 98 H200....I am at or above the limits of the vehicle but I only drag it 5 miles 2 or three times a year. (lucky enough to have the boat in a slip)

When I take it to lake George late this summer it will be behind my friends F150....

your also going to be putting a lot of stress on the Sienna.....know the maintenance history and worst case scenario if something breaks on the car.

brentm77 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2015 5:13 pm

Thank you everyone for your replies. I appreciate all of you taking the time to help a newbie out. These boards are loaded with great information.

Based on the replies, I think the easiest thing will be to give it a test run for a short distance and see if I feel comfortable. The trailer has breaks which seem to be working well. I will have a truck when my dad isn't camping with his trailer for the weekend, so that will be the default. But I think the Sienna might work for the short drive on weekends when I don't have the truck.

I had the steering cable replaced last week. We pulled the old one ourselves, but the replacement cable was slightly different and it was a bugger getting the old one off because of clearance. I decided it was worth my sanity to pay an experienced mechanic to put the new one on. This week the distributor is being replaced because an automobile distributor was used when the engine was rebuilt by the previous owner. I read conflicting reports on whether there was a difference or a danger in using the auto-distributor, but ultimately decided that my family's safety was most important so I wasn't taking any chances.

I am eager to get it out on the lake next week when the shop gets it back to me. I am also eager to work a cleaning it up and fixing some cosmetic issues, which I will be better at than the mechanical stuff.

I will post how the test tow goes with the Sienna for the benefit of future readers.

rpengr · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2015 9:06 am

brentm77 wrote:

This week the distributor is being replaced because an automobile distributor was used when the engine was rebuilt by the previous owner. I read conflicting reports on whether there was a difference or a danger in using the auto-distributor, but ultimately decided that my family's safety was most important so I wasn't taking any chances.

I have wondered what the difference is in the distributor (if any). It would be great if you (or your mechanic) could take a picture of the auto vs marine distributor.

brentm77 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2015 9:22 am

Quote:

I have wondered what the difference is in the distributor (if any). It would be great if you (or your mechanic) could take a picture of the auto vs marine distributor.

I am not sure I will have the old one to take a picture of - but I will if I get it back. My research indicated that the difference was two things: 1) a simple spark arrestor (a screen mesh on openings) to reduce the risk of fire in the enclosed area of a boat engine in the event of a fuel leak; and 2) a stamp saying it is marine certified, and therefor legal to use in a boat engine.

There appears to be other debates on whether it is weighted differently or uses parts that are less corrosion resistant. With some insisting the only difference is the above stamp.

The automobile distributor was pointed out by the guy who installed the steering cable. He insisted it could cause a fire or small explosion, but didn't work on distributors for boats this old. So I took it to another boat mechanic and he actually said it wasn't dangerous, but he would recommend replacing it in a year or two to prevent breakdown. It wasn't cheap, but I decided that if it is even debatable whether it can cause a fire, I wasn't taking chances with my family.

babbot1 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 12, 2013 3:46 pm **Posts:** 570

Is it the whole distributor that's not marine or just the cap and rotor? I doubt the marine caps and rotors are corrosion resistant any more than the auto ones because when I bought this boat I replaced the cap and rotor. When I took it off there was about 1/8" of corrosion on the contacts. Still worked though. I was amazed.

brentm77 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2015 3:50 pm

babbot1 wrote:

Is it the whole distributor that's not marine or just the cap and rotor?

The whole distributor.

brentm77 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 11, 2015 11:57 am

I was informed yesterday that despite the re-built engine, the water pump needs replacement too. My cheap boat, wasn't so cheap. But I am told everything else is in great shape. Crossing fingers.

brentm77 · **Posted:** Wed Jul 01, 2015 2:21 pm

Just a follow-up for future readers. I have towed my boat several times with the Sienna now. It accelerates quickly enough, controls well, and stops easily (with the trailer brakes). I had no issues on the boating ramp. The back end of the Sienna drops slightly, but not significantly. I have had three adults and two children in the car when towing without any issue. I live 15 minutes from a marina, so most of the driving is short trips, but I have taken it on the freeway for more than 20 miles to get the boat to a repair shop.

I certainly wouldn't be my first choice in a towing vehicle, and I wouldn't ever tow a bigger boat with it, but it works for now.

usje141 · **Joined:** Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:22 am **Posts:** 78

Nice view from your driveway!! It would take me a two day drive to seem something similar...

www.iFourWinns.com

Can my Toyota Sienna tow 1987 170 Horizon?

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