www.iFourWinns.com

What is an acceptable water temp' increase after you've come off plane, back down to idle?
I have a 160f thermostat & after changing carb/ manifold, i frequently see it creeping up to 170+ when RPM is <1500.
I've fitted richer main jets in the carb, to no avail.
Normal-ish?

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2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS

I believe my 170 is similar.
Seems to run 135 on plane, but creeps up to 160-170 at idle.

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2003 Four Winns 170 Freedom Cincinnati, Ohio / Cape Coral, Florida

Go get an in fared thermometer and check the manifolds too. They should be pretty close in temp. Mine are about 5 to 7 apart, not ideal but OK. The ir thermos are around 15 dollars nd worth it. Plus great for checking the oil temp for the fish fry.

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http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o71 ... wqm355.jpg


08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi

I think that is fine, I have always seen mine run at about 160-165 but when you come off plane it will creep up to 175, then cool off to 160-165 if you're idling for a bit.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks all.
What temp should I be concerned at, after coming off plane?

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2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS

185 and above, or steady running at 175+.
I had this problem when I had friggin barnacles growing in the water intakes. Finally had to split the drive and clean the damn buggers out. I removed the water screen inside the lower unit because they were growing on it and I don't really need the screen. Since then (2 years ago) my temps have been right where the should be.

In order to get the upper and lower apart, I had to think of a way to apply force to the strongest parts of the drive so as not to break anything. What I came up with was a piece of all thread in the trim ram rod holes and 2 half inch bolts in the lower mount holes. What I do take 3 scissors jacks and put one under the 2 bolts and one on each side under the all thread rod. Then just crank em slowly and the upper pops right off. Believe me before I did this I tried everything short of plastic explosives and this plan came to me in a vision while in the garage looking at it...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uddmy0ske6lyg ... r.JPG?dl=0

So here's the lower, you have to remove the water passage cover and clean it out.
BTW this will work just fine on the Volvo SXs and DPs that many of you have.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hsu59glgt405x ... t.JPG?dl=0

Oh and before you all say how bad my drive looks, that was the end of the season after cleaning most of the crap off.
It starts out this way:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/f6777spyd01u8 ... a.JPG?dl=0


Are you still liking your Hi Tek manifolds? Because when I do a new motor (may get the partial engine package from Michigan Motorz, 4.3 Vortec with 4 bbl manifold and flywheel all installed to that I'm adding closed cooling and an remote oil filter), I will need a new exhaust and you can't get the OMC one piece units any longer. Any issues with sealing, gaskets, leaks etc? For me they would be great because of my salt water environment.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Cheers Lou!
The longest my boat has ever stayed in the water for is 24 hours, so there are no barnacles in my intake tubes.
I've never had an issue with the HiTek Headers & strongly recommend them.
Their marketing hype on efficiency & performance improvements may be applicable on 5000RPM + race boats, but negligible on our sort of boats!

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2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS