www.iFourWinns.com

Getting sooooo close! Purging the trim system didn't go well today. I still had a bear getting fluid into the reservoir (stupid design) so I am going to get a long nose syringe and I think that will solve my bleeding problems.

Still unsure if I am going to glue back on the "OMC Cobra" badges onto the sides of the cylinders.



With the cover

Looking good, you'll be back on the water before you know it

_________________
NEW - 2000 Cobalt 246 w/454 Magnum 385HP | SOLD - 2000 FW Horizon 180 LS w/5.0Gi 250HP Volvo Penta

Personally, I would leave them off, since they probably look old.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

Well tip for everyone. Adding the fluid with a syringe is the way to go for sure, see pic below (and yes I had the red threaded plug removed ). I thought I was close to full on the fluid from yesterday but I ended up putting almost an entire bottle in today. This was after I had already fill the cylinders after rebuilding them. It took a few up/down cycles to start to get movement but it finally happened. It sounds nice and quiet in one direction but still a little noisey in the other. Maybe still some air in the system? I will cycle it more again tomorrow.

Pulled the engine from under its storage cover and got it dusted off. Reattached anything on the engine that was removed so I am ready to attach the flywheel, bell-housing and coupler first thing Saturday.

At this point, you might want to cycle the cylinders fully extended, then fully retracted, then wait 15 minutes before repeating (to let the small bubbles settle out). It will work the air bubbles out after some cycles.
... or just forget about it. It will work out after some normal use anyway.

_________________

"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

Didnt' get a picture of this. can someone refresh my memory of where the OTHER ENDS of #9 and #40 go? They are both attached with a single screw to the transom plate but then go where?

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/OMC/S ... parts.html

Tomorrow is the day! We are ready to go.

80% goal: engine back in the boat
100% goal: 80% goal plus alignment done and outdrive reinstalled
125% goal: start the boat

125% goal achieved! The boat is running. More to follow.

Awesome, congrats!

_________________
NEW - 2000 Cobalt 246 w/454 Magnum 385HP | SOLD - 2000 FW Horizon 180 LS w/5.0Gi 250HP Volvo Penta

Superb, great job

Well it was a painful process but Sunday ended with the boat running beautifully on the muffs.

What went right
-Raising and lowering the engine was easy to do with the chain lift (we had to do it many times)
-Everything being labeled made getting everything reattached super quick and only forgot one thing
-Once we got the aligment right...it was butter smooth for the aliment tool and the outdrive.
-Trim works perfect
-Engine cranked right over with the new starter, came up to temp, oil pressure was good.

What went wrong
-Getting the engine aliment was a total bear...awful. My issue was the coupler was too high up relative to the gimbal bearing. It took almost all day for us to troubleshoot the rear engine mounts, change washer thicknesses and touques to get it right. There was no adjustment on the front mounts that could have solved the issue we had. Worst part is I am still unsure why we ended up wit this issue. The height of the rear engine mounts should be at a fixed height relative to the CL of the gimbal bearing.
-Broke a plastic fitting for the Bimini cover

Maybe this video link will work...
https://www.facebook.com/brendan.gustaf ... 250810056/

Video doesn't work for me, might need to upload to youtube...

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NEW - 2000 Cobalt 246 w/454 Magnum 385HP | SOLD - 2000 FW Horizon 180 LS w/5.0Gi 250HP Volvo Penta

Interesting and GREAT JOB!!!
I wonder if removing and re-installing the transom mount in its entirety slightly changed the height of the gimble housing, when you slide the transom mount on with the 6 studs, is there any play up down? Even as little as 1/16" could throw it off I'd think. Since the gimble bearing height vs the coupler centerline is really determined by the transom mount height itself. Any play between the studs and the 6 holes in the transom?

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I don't know how removing everything could have affected that height. There are two bolts that go through the inside transom plate (where the rear engine mounts are) into the outer transom. Those two bolts go through straight holes so the aligment shouldn't be able to be off more than that clearance (1/32"?). It was strange for sure.

Can someone help me out by taking of photo (or list it out) the path for the ground straps on the outdrive? I have the main one that goes from the clamp on the water tube, clamp for drive bellows, port trim cylinder, gimbal housing. I have one that I think goes from the trim sender screw...but to where?

Thanks.