Stern drive won't come off

Graham R · **Posted:** Fri May 06, 2016 9:42 am

Yes, that's the gimbal ring. If the pivot housing is not seized in place (i.e. it would pivot up and down), once the pivot bolts are removed, (plus the plastic nut on the water pipe taken off, the grounding strap disconnected and the shift cable outer disconnected) the pivot housing should just slide out.

edit; I forgot, the 2 bellows need to be disconnected as well

jph190 · **Posted:** Fri May 06, 2016 10:25 am

Pivot housing pins actually came out pretty easily, surprisingly. Problem was I used my hydraulic kit to push it out, it ended up at and angle and is now wedged in the gimbal ring.

jph190 · **Posted:** Fri May 06, 2016 11:40 am

I think it would except this thing that broke off the upper unit is still stuck in the way...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9y1jX ... cslist_api

Graham R · **Posted:** Fri May 06, 2016 2:15 pm

Yes, as you pulled the pivot housing out, the "nose" of the input shaft carrier would push against the end of the bellows, the bit that fits into the pivot housing.(That would stop the pivot housing coming out. You'd need to cut the bellows to stop that happening; if original, they are a decade or more past their replacement date in any case !

rpengr · **Posted:** Fri May 06, 2016 2:58 pm

jph190 wrote:

Starting to strongly consider the reciprocating saw. Hate to buy a new universal joint if the old one could be salvaged but this can't go on forever!

Which part are you considering cutting? You could certainly cut apart that broken aluminum nose piece that broke off the lower unit, but I don't know it that helps anything.

If you are considering cutting the drive shaft between the engine and the transom (Last Resort!) ...I would expect that the shaft would be case hardened. You would need to cut with an abrasive cutting wheel. After that you could pull the engine so you could replace the coupler, and drive the shaft out from the inside?

Graham R · **Posted:** Fri May 06, 2016 4:57 pm

The fact that the outdrive started .to come out suggests the input shaft/ coupler are not totally seized/ rusted together. I do expect a slide hammer will persuade things to part if it's directly coupled to the input shaft.

LouC · **Posted:** Fri May 06, 2016 5:51 pm

True, in one of the pix it looked like it came out by about 1.5", too bad the coupler splines were not treated with Kroil or similar before the removal attempt. Wouldn't it be nice if the bell housing was made to allow easy access to the splines? Its a tough spot but a removable inspection cover like that used on auto transmission (old school rear drive) vehicles would make it a lot easier.

jph190 · **Posted:** Sat May 07, 2016 3:05 pm

I think we are getting close. I managed to get the pivot housing out.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9y1jX ... cslist_api

I can push the u joint out an inch or so, then when I release tension it snaps back in.

Time for more PB Blaster.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9y1jX ... cslist_api

LouC · **Posted:** Sat May 07, 2016 7:10 pm

Yep you're getting there. I bet the bellows was leaking for a long time judging by the rust on the u-joints. If you're using that hydraulic puller, just get out of the line of fire when it lets go, lol :shock:

See if you can get Kano Kroil, it is better than PB.
Another idea is to try putting tension on it with the tool, then release the tension, then tap it inward just slightly, then put on tension again, etc. Gradual movement back and forth may break it free.

Just re-installed mine today. I replaced both bellows because they were starting to get dry and stiff but the u joint bellows was in good shape especially considering that its been on there since 2005! Greased up the gimble, u joints and driveshaft splines, it slid on and then needed a little jostling and turning the u joints with a screwdriver to get the driveshaft to slide into the coupler. The screwdriver trick and using a drive stand make this job much easier.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qn3zrg0ruzwz2 ... nstall.jpg

Looks bad but works well. Needs a clean up and a couple of coats of Trilux aluminum anti fouling...

jph190 · **Posted:** Sun May 08, 2016 8:19 am

Hey, if it works well that's what matters. Although if I ever get this shaft out I will be seeking advice on painting - VP manual has a fairly elaborate set of instructions for this. I've seen some people online slap a can of zinc chromate on and follow it up with a coat of VP touch up paint. I'm curious if these people end up with flakes of paint missing a week later.

So I actually was pulling the shaft out and releasing like you said; I don't think the rusted part is releasing at all. I didn't try tapping it in, will try that today. I think the coupler itself is somehow stretching out and then snapping back in when released, or something along those lines.

Nice to hear you've got your drive maintenance done. I look forward to the day when mine is just a Saturday afternoon job

. One day I'll hopefully have a better understanding of your screwdriver trick (this is my first boat).

Where do they sell Kroil? Do you have to order it online?

LouC · **Posted:** Sun May 08, 2016 9:43 am

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Some hardware stores sell it, but it's not that easy to find. Someone on the internet posted that a 50/50 mix of auto trans fluid and acetone works very well, but I have not tried it and acetone is very flammable.

the tricks that help putting the drive back on:
first of all make sure your coupler/engine is aligned
have boat on a level surface
get or build a drive jack (perferably height adjustable)
tie up the trim rams so they are sitting a little above level, this gets them out of the way
use an alignment tool to get the gimble bearing lined up with the coupler
start out with the top mating surface of the drive, level with the top mating surface of the pivot housing.
when you slide the driveshaft in, try to keep it straight (u-joints will let it flop around)
you can put a floor jack under the lower unit to get it lined up, if your drive stand is not height adjustable
screwdriver trick...you install a Cobra, or Volvo SX in neutral, so you can't turn the prop shaft like on an Alpha drive (these are removed and installed in FWD gear) to line up the splines. the splines must line up for the d.s. to go in the coupler.
So when the drive is most of the way on, you slide a long screwdriver in the u joints to slightly turn the driveshaft to help line up the splines. this and raising or lowering the drive helps a lot.

It can fight you for 2 hrs, or slide on in 20 min. Yesterday was a shorter one. Tricks really help.

Remember: Evinrude triple guard grease on the driveshaft splines. Motor oil (not grease) on the 2 o-rings on the drive shaft. Same grease will hold that odd shaped gasket for the water transfer housing in place. Same grease on both mating surfaces for drive/pivot. Evinrude or Permatex Aviation sealer on the threads for the 6 studs. Triple guard grease on the bearing carrier that fits into the end of the bellows, and also on that part of the bellows.

The bellows on these are very durable if they are installed right. I've had them last more than ten years. But if you must keep your drive up all the time, 5 years is a better interval.

Painting...tough to get paint to stay on aluminum. Because it starts oxidizing the minute after you're done sanding. I use Trilux-33 brush on and spray for the pivot housing and the Primocon under water metal primer for bare spots.
If you go over to:
www.boatered.com
and look in the forums, there was a member there 'GeeBee' who posted the real proper way to paint alu. Me I just don't have the patience to do it that way, but it is the right way. Takes several days really. If you don't leave it in the water, then zinc chromate primer/volvo paint will work. Keep in mind zinc/chromate is toxic, make sure to wear a fume respirator.

Graham R · **Posted:** Sun May 08, 2016 4:23 pm

jph190 wrote:

I don't think the rusted part is releasing at all. I didn't try tapping it in, will try that today. I think the coupler itself is somehow stretching out and then snapping back in when released, or something along those lines.

Despite what I thought earlier, I think you are right in that the only movement is due to stretch of the rubber part of the coupler. Now, when it's fully stretched you could use a slide hammer ( but there may still be some "give" in the rubber ) or better, strike the end of the drive shaft with a hammer, to "shock" the splines into breaking free. Stand well clear though !

LouC · **Posted:** Sun May 08, 2016 5:31 pm

I wouldn't be too surprised if you are using the hydraulic spreader tool it might be powerful enough to pull the splined insert right out of the rubber section, but unless it also pulls the gimble bearing out as well, it will not be able to get through the gimble housing.

jontmiller · **Joined:** Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:16 am **Posts:** 296

I would have thrown in the towel a while ago.....phew good luck.

(that said...this high tech setup got my drive placed in about 23 minutes.....would have been closer to 12 had I not missed the shift cable first time.

Untitled by Jon Miller, on Flickr

Jdpber · **Posted:** Mon May 09, 2016 2:34 pm

i do not at all like the stress that is placed on the skeg with the above method. i prefer when the cradle supports the cavitation plate instead.

www.iFourWinns.com

Stern drive won't come off

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