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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2016 5:18 pm 
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Tadpole

Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2016 4:32 pm
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Hi Guys, I'm new to this forum and to boating, but I am thinking of purchasing a 2013 h190. the boat in question has 18 hours on it, looks brand new, and is being sold at a decent price. However when we took it out on the water the engine died when we had it going about 30mph. we found to cause to be a 30amp blown fuse and once replaced (with a 25amp from another connection) the boat ran fine for the rest of the 20min outing. We got the boat to go almost full out without any other issues but i was concerned about the blown fuse. so the boat was taken to a repair shop to see if they could find the source of the blown fuse. they were unable to locate any electrical issues. My question for you fine folks is, if you were in this situation would you go through with the boat purchase? thanks for you thoughts on this issue.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2016 9:11 pm 
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Was anything being activated when fuse blew....like maybe the tilt trim....just asking as that would be around speed to start trimming up. A warranty purchase may be good investment for piece of mind if no warranty provided.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2016 9:32 pm 
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Tadpole

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I wasn't the one driving when the engine went out so i don't know for sure, but i think he was just applying more throttle. a warranty seems like a good idea.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 12:13 am 
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I bought my 2008 in 2010 and it had around 20 hours on it, so was in about same place you are on this boat. It was like new...the prior owner had it just long enough to decide they wanted a bigger boat. The money hit he took in depreciation was all my gain. ...I got the extended warranty, which I never used but the worry it saved me was worth it.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 12:23 am 
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Here's one question....did the trial captain go straight to the fuse when this happened? .....does the boat have a stereo amplifier? ....if he did then he's either a hellofa troubleshooter, luck guesser or had issue before.

If there's an amp it could be its overloading the circuit the way its hooked up.

There's nothing wrong with asking for another trial before signing either...just tell them you want to feel comfortable with deal. If they say then say by.....they made a bunch of those boats and buying season is approaching quick.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 1:42 am 
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Tadpole

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thanks for the feedback guys, there is a stereo amplifier in the boat and we had that turned on prior to the engine dying so perhaps that has something to do with it. Actually we never found the fuse. we looked for a few minutes and we couldn't see any issues so we called in some help and after floating helplessly on the water we got some help from a boat mechanic that was also on the water. It was a super fun trail run :) luckily once the fuse was swapped out we were able to get it going and got to drive the boat to test it properly.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 5:47 am 
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I would think the extended warranty should be free after a sea trial like that.....

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 7:17 am 
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This does not sound like a major concern. And with only 18 hours in 3 years, you should expect a couple more minor problems to crop up. That's barely enough hours to break in the engine, nevermind to keep the gremlins away.

I would pay special attention to how the boat was stored. If it was left outside in the sun and rain, that takes it's toll on the interior (vinyl, carpet, etc), and even on the hull, engine and wiring. It may look like new when cleaned up, but 3 years of sun exposure can cause a lot of age to the expensive upholstery, and a little less rapidly to the gelcoat. However, if it was stored indoors or covered, then that is much better. My boat is 16 years old and probably only has a few months of sun exposure...it has always been stored indoors, in a boat house, and/or covered.

But if you like the boat and the price, then go for it. There is really not that much that could be wrong with a 3 year old boat with 18 hours that you cannot see with a discerning eye. You could take a more experienced boater friend with you on the next sea trial (one that has experience with Inboard/Outboards). Regarding a 2nd sea trial...if I were the buyer I would want to make sure I'm not just taking a freeloader out for boat rides...you could offer a non-refundable deposit of $100 or something to make it worth his while.

Ray

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 9:45 am 
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Goldfish

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Location: Riva, Maryland
What engine is in the H190 you're looking at and what fuse did they replace?? I'd want to know why it blew, that is not a normal occurrence. Tracing an electrical issue can be very frustrating.
Is there any warranty left on the engine?? At a minimum I'd want another sea trial and would do my best to duplicate the conditions when the fuse blew. Are there any service records or indication that there have been warranty claims for this, or any other issue??
This is the fall selling/buying season around here in the Mid-Atlantic region and new and used inventory is being added on almost a daily basis, unless it is a fantastic deal, I'd want some kind of warranty or assurance that 18 hours in 2 or 3 seasons isn't due to issues with the boat.
Mike H....


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 4:03 pm 
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The boat may be a great deal but fuses don't blow for no reason. The current draw was too high but why did this happen? Could be a bad trim system pump (or corroded connections) if the trim was being used. This would not stop me from buying it but I'd want more extensive testing to uncover the fault. Tracing a short in wiring is time consuming. I'd make them prove to you its fixed....

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2016 6:11 am 
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LouC wrote:
The boat may be a great deal but fuses don't blow for no reason. The current draw was too high but why did this happen? Could be a bad trim system pump (or corroded connections) if the trim was being used. This would not stop me from buying it but I'd want more extensive testing to uncover the fault. Tracing a short in wiring is time consuming. I'd make them prove to you its fixed....


It could also have just been a bad or week fuse maybe? It had a 30 amp fuse in it, and they stuck in a 25 amp fuse with no further issues? Seems to me, if there was a real power issue, that the 25 amp should have blown even quicker? Was the stereo still on after the switch?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2016 3:00 pm 
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try running all the accessories and the tilt n trim at the same time to see if the circuits can take the load. Not fun tracing shorts!

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