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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 3:48 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2015 10:20 am
Posts: 40
Location: Riverview, MI
So as a first year boat owner, I am curious as to some of your prep work/pre first launch routines. Mine is currently shrink wrapped and stored in an outdoor lot. My battery is in the boat, but unhooked (that is how the shop did it). I had the lower unit gone through with a great review, winterized, and it wrapped by my local shop that has done all the work so far on the boat.

Can someone/everyone school me on the preparation needed before first voyage? I appreciate everyone and its currently 65 degrees in Michigan in February!!

Thanks,
Eric

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[img][IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll199/ejjones55/IMG_0998.jpg[/img][/img]
1997 Four Winns Horizon 200 Volvo 5.7L GLi
Towed: 2004 Ford F-150 Lariat 4x4
Riverview, MI


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:23 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 20, 2012 4:31 pm
Posts: 873
Location: Minneapolis, MN
You might charge the battery before trying to start it. Check the engine oil level. You could check with the shop that winterized the boat to see what their procedure was and what is needed. They may even offer to prep it for you ($$). Some shops drain and leave drain plugs out, some re-install them. Some places may even add some antifreeze. Ultimately, the drain plugs need to be re-installed. It would not hurt to fill the engine block with fresh water (through the large coolant hose disconnected from the thermostat housing) prior to using the muffs on the outdrive and starting the engine. Connect a garden hose to the muffs and put them on the outdrive. You may need to put the muffs on from the back side of the SX outdrive. Just DO NOT shift the boat into gear with the muffs in place or the prop may hit the muffs. With the water on, start the engine. Look for oil pressure. The cooling water should finish filling the engine in about 30 seconds or so, and start coming out the bottom of the outdrive transom bracket. Let the engine run for a little while as you take a moment and fully appreciate the rumble. 8) :lol: :wink: :) 8) Verify oil pressure and that the temp gage is starting to come up a bit. Shut down and disconnect the muffs. Get everything put back together. Load the boat with PFDs and safety equipment, and all the other necessities, and get ready to go.

Oh, by the way, not sure about Michigan, here in southern Minnesota the weather man is talking about 6-12" of that white stuff with the possibility of 18-24" in places.

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Surface Interval: A scuba diving term for that time between dives to relax and prepare for life's next great adventure.

Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
Previous boat: '95 FW 190 Horizon


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 11:13 pm 
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230 Mike
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Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 7:59 pm
Posts: 5141
Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
I try to have every detail taken care of in the fall so that when spring arrives the only thing left to do is wash & wax.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 10:24 am 
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Seahorse

Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2015 9:57 am
Posts: 23
Quote:
I try to have every detail taken care of in the fall so that when spring arrives the only thing left to do is wash & wax.

This ^^ is the goal for me also, but I still end up with a fair bit of work to do in the Spring.

In the Fall, I (among other winterization tasks) pull the battery and put it on a float charger in my garage for the winter so the battery stays at full charge and does not freeze. In addition, I leave the engine drain plugs out (no particular reason I couldn't put them back in after draining) and I pull the impeller to let it "rest" during the winter so it is not all folded up in the same position for six months on end. I also pull the prop and store it somewhere secure for the winter. Finally, I replace the nice color-matched custom cover with the generic "sorta-fits" cover from the big box store that I don't care about storing in the dusty barn.

So, in the Spring, I put the drain plugs back in, reinstall impeller and battery, put the prop back on, check the engine and outdrive oil levels, check trim fluid level and power steering fluid, then hook up the flush hose and fire it up. I will let it run for 15-20 minutes to get the engine warmed up then I'll shut it down and re-secure the deck floor plate that covers the gas tank (I remove it because it is much easier to get to the raw water pump). From there, fill up the water box for my bilge-mounted transducer, put any loose gear where it belongs, polish and wax, give the vinyl a 303 treatment, clean the windshield, remove the generic sorta-fits "barn cover" and reinstall the custom canvas cover, and then correct any issues with trailer tire pressures/condition and trailer lights/wiring.

After that, move on with life until discretionary time, good weather, and good health (we get sick fairly often with the small ones in the Spring) intersect so we can take it out.

This year, I have to change the fuel/water separator also because I waited too long to winterize and was rushed last Fall.

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2003 FW 170 Freedom 4.3 GL/SX


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 3:19 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2015 10:20 am
Posts: 40
Location: Riverview, MI
Great advice so far. Thanks

Next year I'll be more prepared and pull the battery, put on tender charger at home, and store it on the charge for the winter.

My biggest concern is the first start up. Once the battery has a full charge, is flushing the winterization fluid/antifreeze as simple as hooking up the muffs with the hose, running the water, then firing it up and letting is run/flush for 15-20 mins??

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[img][IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll199/ejjones55/IMG_0998.jpg[/img][/img]
1997 Four Winns Horizon 200 Volvo 5.7L GLi
Towed: 2004 Ford F-150 Lariat 4x4
Riverview, MI


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 5:28 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 20, 2012 4:31 pm
Posts: 873
Location: Minneapolis, MN
If the engine was just drained, then make sure all plugs are installed, hook up the muffs and see if it will start.

If it has antifreeze in it you may want to drain or capture at least most of that and dispose of properly (ecologically). Otherwise, start it and make sure evrything is operating normally. It might even be a family activity. Get everything set and have the Admiral turn the key and watch gages while you walk around and look for leaks or any other issues.

_________________
Surface Interval: A scuba diving term for that time between dives to relax and prepare for life's next great adventure.

Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
Previous boat: '95 FW 190 Horizon


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