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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 2:54 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2017 9:11 am
Posts: 98
Location: Fort Pierre, SD
Good afternoon, all!

I'm looking to replace the 4 factory speakers and add an amplifier and subwoofer in my 210. I'm wondering, for those that have done it, where you grounded your amp? I'm assuming I'll need to go back to the battery, but wanted to make sure.

Also, can any of you recommend a 5 channel amp wiring kit you've used? I'm looking at the kit below, but will need to get a longer ground wire. If only I could swap the length of the RCA's for more length in the the ground wire!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D1CBPFM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2V3063JU9685N&psc=1

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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 7:32 pm 
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Livin' the Dream
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 9:23 am
Posts: 547
Location: Pontoon Beach IL
In a boat, typically run both positive and negative from the battery to the amplifier.

Most kits are only going to have a short ground wire, because they are for automobiles. I would Just order some 4 awg welding cable the length you need it, and Whatever you need to terminate it

Good luck, What amp/speakers you using?

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2018 8:33 am 
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Dolphin

Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2017 9:11 am
Posts: 98
Location: Fort Pierre, SD
I'm looking at the Kicker 40KX800.5
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-wfT6CZMMyWU/p_2064KX8K5/Kicker-40KX800-5.html

with four of the Kicker 43KM654LCW 6.5" speakers
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Htnnv3Z6GFc/p_206KM654LC/Kicker-43KM654LCW.html

I haven't decided on a subwoofer yet. I intend to keep the factory Clarion CMD4 for the time being.

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2018 9:35 am 
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No credible or quality marine amp install kits exit. They need to be pieced together a-la-carte based on the equipment and the boat. Proper cable size and length, proper circuit protection and rating, etc. A reputable audio source with product and marine knowledge should be able to provide all these details, as well as install, setup and tuning tips.

Id suggest the Kicker marine woofer. You can get the white or charcoal LED grill to match those speakers. They offer a 10 and 12 inch as well as an infinite-baffle version or the original version designed for small enclosures. ID go with a 2 ohm so you can get a little more wattage from the amp.

Also, that KX model is retired. I would suggest the new 44KXMA800.5. Well worth it to go with the new version, besides being the marine version.

Same with the speakers. the new 45KM654L has improved LEDs over the 43 series.


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2018 11:54 am 
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Dolphin

Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2017 9:11 am
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Location: Fort Pierre, SD
Thanks, Wylie. I was always under the impression that presenting a 2 ohm load works the amp harder (and possibly draws more power). I will check out the updated versions of the speakers and amp. Thanks for listing them!

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2018 12:17 pm 
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While thats mostly correct on paper, its not always a bad thing. That amp is rated for 2 ohm loads on each chnl, so we are not going to be running below a safe impedance. Modern day amp have done well to reduce distortion and maintain sound quality and efficiency while driving lower impedance loads. Also, you are going to be running the other 4 chnl at only 4 ohm, so the amp is still well withing its comfort zone. Personally, ive run these amps with all 5 chnls at 2 ohm with no issues. One setup we ran dual 800.5 with a L7 12 woofer with a 2 ohm coil to each amp for 800W rms, then the 8 full range chnls bridged to 4 8" tower speakers at 200W rms to each.

Any time we lower the impedance, output goes up, and so does current draw. Just the way it is. Class-D amps are going to be far more efficient then an older class-A/B, so less draw at the same wattage output. This also equals less wasted energy as heat.

Last thing to look at is the woofers' rms and peak. with 150W rms for the 10 and 175W rms for the 12", going with the 2 ohm gets us a potential of 400W rms. This equals head room. We have the reserve wattage output that greater then what the woofer needs to perform to its potential. We not going to need all that 400W, so the woofer peaks out at a lower gain level. So in the end, we really are not stressing the amp any more with a 4 ohm (200W output) with the 2 ohm (likey not delivering more then 300) woofer.

Pair that with the wireless woofer controller you get with the new KXMA800.5 and youve got a solid system with woofer tuning at your finger tips.


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2018 12:41 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2017 9:11 am
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Location: Fort Pierre, SD
So, if I go with a 2ohm woofer rated for 150 watts and the amp will put out 400w, how do I set the gain so that I don't blow the woofer when I turn up the volume? Is there a way to tell how many watts the amp is putting out at certain gain settings?

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2018 2:09 pm 
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There are ways to measure the amps output and through a formula, convert it to wattage.


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2018 3:22 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2017 9:11 am
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Location: Fort Pierre, SD
Is it good enough to turn up the gain until it starts to clip/distort and then back it off a little?

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2018 4:12 pm 
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Yes, but tuning a woofer by ear is not as easy as hearing a fill range speaker distort.


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