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Factory Dual Battery Setup
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Author:  Blessed [ Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Factory Dual Battery Setup
Hey gang,

Time for some more stupid questions. :oops: I optioned for the dual battery setup with my new 210 but after reading some posts regarding the hazzards of using both for starting, deep cycle for anchoring, mixing and matching issues and now I have overheard that switching between Battery 1 to Battery 2 or to Both while the engine is running can cook the diodes in the alternator. So, since I have never yet had this setup could you guys please advise on how far off I am in my misconception on how I will be able to use them.

I assumed I could reserve say Battery 1 for starting and then switch to Battery 2 for anchoring - lights and my stereo (with planned sub, speaker and amp upgrades) etc. I figured I could then switch to both for the run home thus charge both but I overheard that switching to both will equalize the charge between the two and possibly still leave you without enough juice to start. So now I am totally confused :? Seems as though many of you have this setup, how true are the following or could you maybe share how you use them?

- Can the swich be changed when the engine is running without killing the alternator?
- If not, then how could you ever charge the dead stereo battery since you would not be able to start off of it?
- If I switch to both to start (not reccommended by Volvo?)- in order to charge both is there really a chance of equalizing the charge between the two and having two 50% charged batteries and not enough power to start the engine?
- When winterizing can I leave them linked together (or are they even linked beyond the switch in the first place?) and set my trickle charger to 24v?
- Finally, did FW ever fix that issue with the boat listing to one side with the dual battery setup a couple of years back?

I just got so lost with what I have read so far, remember this is only a 210 - it doesn't have any of those auto switching/charging managers as far as I know. How would you guys that went hard-core with thier stereos use them on a cruise, ski and anchor kind of day?
Author:  cougarcruiser [ Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Factory Dual Battery Setup
Wire your amp to 1 battery. Set the selector switch to that battery for your everyday use. If the stereo dies because you are sitting and floating/anchored, then switch the selector to #2 to start the boat, then switch it back to #1 to start re-charging. You can use the "both" option (it's there for a reason) - but i have heard that it can be problematic on the charging system over long periods of time.

Unless you are keeping the boat for umpteen million years, I don't forsee you cooking the alternator. If the alternator fails, it will probably be because of something else. Those switches exist for a reason and if using the switch for what it is meant for (aka switching batteries) is problematic -- then they would probably have gigantic warning signs on it.

Just my .02. Don't stress it. Enjoy it.
Author:  christiantrevor [ Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Factory Dual Battery Setup
When my boat has been sitting (say over winter) my first day I run the switch on "BOTH" or "ALL" for a couple of hours. After that I'll switch to a single battery. If I'm out for the weekend I run #1 one day and #2 the next. I play my music loud and constanly. If my battery runs low wile playing shoes on the beach, I switch to the other battery to start the engine and switch back to the charge the low battery. If I'm going to take a long run, I put the switch to "ALL". When your switch is in the "BOTH" or "ALL" position it should take the altenator twice the time to charge both batteries compared to the "1" or "2" position. I freely move my switch with the engine opperating without worry. On my previous boat I had house batteries that could start the engines and a bank of batteries strickly wired for starting the engines only, but that is not how the factory wired my Horizion. Seems to me when the time comes to replace my batteries, I'll be replacing both at the same time.
Author:  Cincy Aquaholic [ Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Factory Dual Battery Setup
What you don't want to do is switch it to the "off" position when its running. You can freely switch between 1, 2, and both with out passing through off.

I plan to wire my amps to the battery switch (make sure yours is rated for enough amps if you do) so I can control if it the stereo will run off one or two and no matter which it is, I will have the other for start up.
Author:  230 Mike [ Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Factory Dual Battery Setup
If I had to pick only one option to include on a new boat, dual batteries would probably be it. On a bowrider a lot of the concerns you see don't really apply. You will kill your alternator if you switch the battery switch to or even momentarily through the "off" position while the engine is running. Other than that, don't worry about it. I just put it on battery 1, start/run/anchor/stereo/whatever, and then try to remember to switch it to battery 2 sometime during the day. Just do what you can to keep it even in use between the two batteries. I recommend a pair of dual purpose group 27 batteries. After 3 seasons on the original set of batteries using this approach, with a lot of stereo use and a lot of sitting at anchor with lights on, etc., my batteries are still in great shape and I've always got a spare battery ready to go.

Big boats & cruisers with large, high-drain electrical demands have to be much more concerned with deep cycle vs. starting and a lot of the other stuff you've probably been reading about. Dual batts on your boat should be a no-brainer.

FW does now put the battery trays on the port side as I understand it, which was the fix for the list. I don't know why it took them so long to make that change.
Author:  cougarcruiser [ Wed Apr 16, 2008 11:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Factory Dual Battery Setup
Should note that the standard batteries that Four Winns uses are group 27 interstate marine batteries - or at least they are for the H240
Author:  LouC [ Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:12 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Factory Dual Battery Setup
I put the simple dual battery system with just a 1, 2, both, and 'off' switch on my old 88 Horizon a few years back. I have just alternated the use of the batteries from one day to the next, using #1 one day, #2 the next. Never had a dead batt this way. I used deep cycles because at the time I put in the system dual purpose batteries were not that well known. Now after 5 years I changed my deep cycles to gp 27 dual purpose batts. You will not have trouble with this system as long as you alternate the use of batts so each is regularly charged and you don't switch to OFF with the motor running.
Author:  Blessed [ Thu Apr 17, 2008 8:46 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Factory Dual Battery Setup
Thanks gang. I knew it had to much more simple than what I was reading. I just did not want to foul my new rig the first day I get it in the water.
Author:  wkearney99 [ Thu Apr 17, 2008 9:15 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Factory Dual Battery Setup
Also note that Blue Sea makes a voltage limiter. It's a device that watches the voltage level and cuts off when it dips too low. This is a handy way to avoid having the battery get drained too low. Wire up the amp through one and it'll cut off automatically.

Loud and all day isn't always the friendliest way to spend time on the water with other boaters around. Sound carries and not everyone shares the same tastes. I'm just sayin'.....

Our 348 has three Interstate type 27 batteries. That and two 6V golf cart batteries I added last season. The notion of deep cycle and starting is a lot less of an issue with today's batteries and the likely conditions found in boating. The cold cranking amps of a car/truck battery are necessary because of more frequent use over a much wider temperature range. Now, if you were stop/starting your engines all the time... well maybe.
Author:  pet575 [ Thu Apr 17, 2008 11:12 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Factory Dual Battery Setup
Lots of good responses. Nothing I can add to those that is worthwhile, so I'll take a shot at your charger question.

I'm no electrical engineer (or much more than a barely competent electrician for basic things), but my initial answer to your question about the 24v charger on linked batteries is that you wouldn't want to do that. I guess I'd want more info on how you were setting that up, but if the batteries are still hooked to the boat's systems I can't imagine that feeding 24 volts into that setup would be a good idea.

Again, I'm no expert. But, I'd feel better about setting it to 12v and moving the connector from battery to battery. If you somehow had the batteries disconnected from the rest of the system, but still linked together, that would change my answer. However, I'm not sure you could get that type of a setup out of a dual battery switch.
Author:  bluesky [ Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Factory Dual Battery Setup
Blessed,

I had the same questions regarding my new H240 with dual batteries which I am picking up from the dealer this Saturday.
I traded in a 2005 Crownline that I had installed a dual battery system in myself. After doing considerable online research I decided on two Optima batteries, a Perko 1,2, All battery switch, and a Newmar BI-100 battery integrator. Basically what the Newmar component does is isolate the two battery circuits but at the same time supplies both batteries charging current anytime your alternator is on. You never have to worry about using the battery switch in order to get current to one or the other during charging...it is automatic. I also understand that the integrator provides a higher pass thru voltage which provides a fuller charge than other methods.
I am by no means an expert, but I can tell you that all last season both of my batteries stayed in a fully charged state automatically...without switching back and forth during the engine on periods...nice peace of mind.
To investigate further you might consider goggling Newmar BI-100 and reading their sales pitch. It worked out pretty good for me.
Author:  Jim_R [ Thu Apr 17, 2008 9:15 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Factory Dual Battery Setup
Blue Sea has a system called "Add a Battery". Take a look at it at their website: http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/overview/329

It includes a battery switch and an ACR (Automatic Charging Relay). The system allows you to setup two seperate power systems, typically a House system and a starting system. Each will be isolated from the other, with the exception that when voltage drops to a certain level when a charging source is present the two systems will be combined to allow both batteries to charge. I believe that with the factory dual battery setup, you could add a Blue Sea ACR and essentially have the same setup, which is pretty much set and forget but still allows for combined battery charging in an emergancy.
Author:  josefina [ Thu Jan 22, 2009 1:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Factory Dual Battery Setup
Hi there,
I have just purchased a V 318 and I have had trouble with the batteries. I read that there is a "1", "2" and "both" switch for the battery, but I can´t find it. The manuals are not specific for the V 318. The battery dies after 5 minutes, that is why I want to know if somebody can help me with this..
thank you!!
Author:  cougarcruiser [ Thu Jan 22, 2009 3:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Factory Dual Battery Setup
Josefina -- great choice on the 318!

I don't have "dual batteries" for any of the systems on my 318. I have 3 batteries that are all pretty independent of each other. 1 for each engine. They have separate switches. I have 1 house battery with it's own switch as well.

Is that not the case with your boat?

I have 3 Group 27 Interstates. They are not even deep cycles. They are the xtra heavy duty marine batteries though? (This is what FW recommends)
Author:  aguyindallas [ Thu Jan 22, 2009 8:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Factory Dual Battery Setup
Perfect timing...I just finished adding my second battery and getting it all wired up to my Perko switch.

Here is my setup:

1. I had a 4 gauge, 10ft wire made to connect the ground from battery 1 to battery 2. Battery 1 still has the factory ground to engine cable.
2. I had a 4 gauge, 10ft wire made to connect battery 2 to the Perko switch. Battery 2 is on the port side, Perko on the starboard side.
3. 1 wire from the Perko terminal 1 to battery 1.
4. 1 wire from the Perko terminal 2 to battery 2
5. Common wire removed from factory battery 1 and put onto "common" terminal of Perko.
6. Left the "helm power" wire connected to battery 1 as it was from the factory. This allows me to not lose the radio settings whenever I switch batteries to the off position. I am not sure this is the smartest idea, as this would still allow a drain at the help if there was one to drain the power of battery 1.

I am told my setting is safe as long as the boat is not running while the switch is in the off position. When its running in the off position, the alternator is charging, but has nowhere to dispose of the energy it is making while its running. This is what I am told cooks alternators.

My worry in this deal is knowing when/if its safe to start the boat in the "all" position. Only when they are both to low to start the engine independently? Or is it also ok if battery 1 is nearly dead and battery 2 is fully charged? I am just worried that I am applying too much power in the all position and it will fry something.

My intention is to hit the water on day 1, using battery 1. I will leave it there all day, even while anchored and listening to music, led's on etc...IF it goes dead, I will switch to battery 2 to start the boat. When it is running, I will either switch to all, or back to battery 1 to be sure battery 1 gets a good charge on the ride back to the dock. On day 2, I would be running all day on battery 2 and reverse the process as needed. Since our boat is kept inside our garage at home, I can put a charger on it anytime needed. I am considering going to a dual battery on board charger also.

Here is my Perko, starboard side mounted, above the factory battery.
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